"What if" had to remove biner under load?

[moab mark]

I have only had to do this one time in the real world.

How would those of you that want to play along remove the biner?

Editing: Before one of you smart answers I know a knife would work but that is not exactly what I was looking for.


Mark

[ratagonia]

I have only had to do this one time in the real world.

How would those of you that want to play along remove the biner?

Editing: Before one of you smart answers I know a knife would work but that is not exactly what I was looking for.

Mark

Cutting through the biner requires a REALLY SHARP KNIFE!

T

[moab mark]

I have only had to do this one time in the real world.

How would those of you that want to play along remove the biner?

Editing: Before one of you smart answers I know a knife would work but that is not exactly what I was looking for.

Mark

Cutting through the biner requires a REALLY SHARP KNIFE!

T

[ratagonia]

I have only had to do this one time in the real world.

How would those of you that want to play along remove the biner?

Editing: Before one of you smart answers I know a knife would work but that is not exactly what I was looking for.

Mark

Cutting through the biner requires a REALLY SHARP KNIFE!

T

What, you want me to bring my plasma cutter into the canyons? Sounds dangerous!

T

[moab mark]

Be a lot easier to remove those glue in bolts.

[oldno7]

Use the rope bag side of your rope to set up a simple "Z" rig. Haul up on this just enough to release the biner block. For those using a figure 8 attach it onto your rope in place of your biner block, slowly release the z-rig until all the weight is on the 8-block, remove z-rig and lower victim.

Theres several other variations, this is just one solution.

[trackrunner]

lock off any way (tying off the device, use a friction hitch a.k.a self belay, ascender, etc). Then place an ascender of prusik above the device. Weight the ascender using a foot loop or muscel through it (climb the cliff) if possible. Now your biner is unweighted and can be removed.

May also be able to use a haul system.

Question is why would you want to unweight your biner?

What kind of knife do you bring? I need a new canyon knife. None of my knifes cut biners.

Edit: saw Kurt's responce. Are you trying to remove a load from a rappel or biner block. If biner block I'd go Kurt's way.

[oldno7]

If you tossed your bag down first and left a small tail at the anchor, I hope you have an additional pull cord or some sort of a rescue rope to use as a pig rig.

[moab mark]

Trying to remove weight due to someone on rappel.
We used a z rig. We had a rope when tossed had got hung up in a tree. We did not know this until the first guy down had gone over the edge. He thought he could get it out of the tree, when he actually got there he could not. We had the rappel anchored with a carabiner. Lifted with z rig tied on the other rope and then lowered. We actually used a mariner hitch to reload the rope.

For those of you that have always wanted to learn about self rescue I bought a book a few years ago. Awesome book, it is for the climbing crowd but most of it relates to Canyoneering.

http://www.amazon.com/Self-Rescue-Ro...1281415&sr=8-2

The drawings are really easy to follow and understand.

Mark

Oh then there was the time we were rappeling off my jeep. There is a awesome 150' wall to rappel down out on the golden spike jeep trail. The kids love it, rappel jump in another jeep go back up go down again. Better than Lagoon.
So one of the girls got her hair caught in her piranha. Our first thought was, hey why don't we just light up the jeep and drag her butt back up. Her mother did not think we were to funny. We just dropped another rope and I went down and helped her. But I think the jeep idea would of been more entertaining. On a side note when we use the jeep we park it sideways so it doesn't accidentlly pass you while your rappelling

Mark

[moab mark]

Talking about jeep passing rappelers. There are rumors that have floated around moab for years. Matt may know if rumor or not. Some climber had gotten stuck on wall street. Dan Mick the local jeep guide guru went to help search and rescue get this guy down. He had gone around on poison spider jeep trail and then came out above the guy on wall street. They were using or preparing to use his jeep for an anchor, well some how it got away and went over the edge. Bet that left a mark I have no idea if true but if it is and no one got hurt wish I could of been there.

Mark

[ratagonia]

Use the rope bag side of your rope to set up a simple "Z" rig. Haul up on this just enough to release the biner block. For those using a figure 8 attach it onto your rope in place of your biner block, slowly release the z-rig until all the weight is on the 8-block, remove z-rig and lower victim.

Theres several other variations, this is just one solution.

A good description of a "Conversion", converting a block to a lower.

A Mariner Knot works well as it provides mechanical advantage and a release under load.

For me, it is pull the rope up a few inches, take off the biner block, tie a munter mule, lower the rope a few inches. Lower victim to the ground.

T

[Iceaxe]

I would just reach down and pull the rope up........... hand over hand....

Your friend
Totally Awesome

[oldno7]

For those of you that have always wanted to learn about self rescue I bought a book a few years ago. Awesome book, it is for the climbing crowd but most of it relates to Canyoneering.

I've heard a rumor that the canyoneering version of this book may be coming out.

[moab mark]

For hands on when things go south, it's the best I've read.
Mark