The Sharp End

[Brian in SLC]

And I like my calves barbecued...

And sometimes pounded, breaded, and fried...

Speakin' of friction...if you haven't seen the climbing video, "the Sharp End", its pretty wild. The DVD extras with Hank are a hoot. His describing his fall on Southern Belle in Yosemite is classic. I can't imagine...

Also related is the current thread on the 'taco (supertopo website) called, "Hey Coz, Sure would like to hear the story of Southern Belle."

Anyhoo, probably OT (belongs in the climber's forum) but entertaining (in a frightening sorta way). Made my hands sweat. Must be friction climbing season...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[Iceaxe]

Speakin' of friction...if you haven't seen the climbing video, "the Sharp End", its pretty wild.

Never seen it.... but it's downloa.... I mean I'm running over to rent it right now.

[moab mark]

where are you downloading from? been looking cannot find. Trailer looks good.

[Iceaxe]

You mean where am I renting from?

http://thepiratebay.org/search/the%20sharp%20end/0/99/0

[moab mark]

That video store doesn't like my credit card. It will not let me rent it? Are you downloading the *.avi file?
Mark

[Iceaxe]

You need a Vuze credit card. It's kinda like a VISA but without the interest or minimum payment requirement.

PM sent....

[Iceaxe]

Awesome movie.... thanks for the heads up.

[price1869]

Well, you could have just "rented" it from me. :)

[moab mark]

Cool video.
I know very little about climbing. Other than some of those guys are living on the edge.
Could someone give a basic understanding of the rating system in climbing? Or send me to a site that does i would appreciate it. Confusing.

Thanks

Mark

[Brian in SLC]

I know very little about climbing. Other than some of those guys are living on the edge.
Could someone give a basic understanding of the rating system in climbing? Or send me to a site that does i would appreciate it.

Here's some pretty good info:

http://tinyurl.com/4mrht2

Climbing ratings are pretty subjective, and, there's big differences in rating between the "styles" of climbing, too.

For instance, I always get a kick out of folks who don't climb that much when they profess a proficiency at a certain grade. "Oh yeah, I'm a 5.8 climber". That can mean different things to different people too.

In the U.S., we mostly use the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System). In general (and also very subjective), most folks who haven't climbed but are in decent physical shape can probably muster 5.0 to, say, 5.6 or so. Above that, it really depends on the "type" of climbing. Sport climbs and traditional type climbs can range from steep bucket hauls to parallel sided jam cracks to bomb bay chimneys to off width to thin friction, etc etc. So, when your talking climbing grades, there's a huge difference between, say, a 5.10 off width and a 5.10, well bolted, sport route.

Suffice to say, anything over 5.10 is fairly hard. Most kids coming out of the climbing gyms call up to 5.10 "moderate" though, which is pretty amusing (and a little depressing...sometimes).

So, when you watch that video and see Alex on sight that 5.12X rated route in Elbesandstein, you know he's a phenom. Especially given how many of that high caliber crew wouldn't have sacked up for it.

Anyhoo...

-Brian in SLC

[moab mark]

Thanks the wiki expalined it well.

The best part of the video was the girl who fell bouldering from 30 ft. and when that nut swung on the rope. Nuts.

Anymore good climbing videos?

Mark

[Iceaxe]

While not climbing video's I know a couple of video's that are similar that you might like.....

Step into Liquid

Dust to Glory

I enjoyed both video's along with The Sharp End. Being and off road guy you will probably really like Dust to Glory.

[moab mark]

Can I get these with my vuse credit card.

[Iceaxe]

You sure can...

Vuse is excepted where ever fine video's are sold.