Great White Icicle

**Don** · 07-02-2008, 10:00 PM

Anyone been down the Great White Icicle in Little Cottonwood Canyon recently? I have Shane's beta, but am unfamiliar with this route (re: not an ice climber). Recent conditions and any tips appreciated.
http://climb-utah.com/WM/icicle.htm
Shane recommends no more than 4 people and so far it's just me and Josh looking at an early start Friday morning. Anyone want to join us?

**Sponsored Link** · 07-02-2008 10:00 PM

**Brian in SLC** · 07-03-2008, 07:30 AM

Originally Posted by Don

Anyone been down the Great White Icicle in Little Cottonwood Canyon recently?

Really running with high flow right now (drove past it last weekend on the way to Alta to ski). Snow is still melting out up high.

So...be mindful of that.

Uhhh, and, if you could, look for my ice screw. I rarely, if ever, drop gear, but, I fat fingered a screw this past ice season and the darn thing dropped into a hole in the ice, into the running water. Unobtainium. Not sure you'd be able to see it or not, but, will be on the lower angle ramp below "the bulge" belay anchor. Its a lower angle ramp below where the stream flow changes direction (from kinda north to kinda west). Just about in the middle of the route just above the lower hiking/downclimbing section.

Also, be aware that that last rappel station is gone (the one on the boulder). The cliff above the boulder rap station spalled off sometime in the spring of 07 and destroyed the boulder, and changed the streamcourse a tad. The new rappel station is across the drainage on a small shelf from where it was (ie, its now on the climber's left of the flow rather than the right).

Also, we had a pretty big winter up there and I'd expect some of the rock to be kind of loose for awhile. Some of the blocks that came down are still pretty tippy and might be loose too. Take care.

You might take the time to scout the waterfall from the bottom prior to going up the gully to the top. There's a pretty well travelled trail that goes right to it. Then, take a look at the flow and decide if its too high or not. Also, you might be able to see the final rap anchor (will be on the far side of the flow as you look up, ie, to the climber's left just over the steep section), kinda below a tree.

From Shane's beta:

"Descend downstream (3rd class) to a large granite boulder perched on the edge of the last drop. Use caution in the last 20' before reaching the anchors since a slip would be very bad. Belaying the first person and than spotting those who follow is suggested."

The boulder mentioned in the above description is gone. The "slip would be bad" advice is even more appropriate now, as the new anchor is in even a more exposed location. There is still another anchor on the same side of the drainage (west side) as the boulder was, just above, but, the rock fall cut out the base of it and you'd probably have to climb up to get to the anchor (you'll see slings hanging down from above). Not sure if this anchor is usable or not (ice climbers don't consider it now). Also, prior to hiking down to the last anchor, there should be a fixed anchor (fixe ring and chain, methinks) kinda at the start of the last straightaway to the final drop (say, 100 feet or so above the final rap station). It'll be on the climber's right and on a low section of rock (ie on the west side of the stream course). You could use that anchor to belay or rappel down to the final rappel anchor.

Good luck and be careful.

-Brian in SLC

**Don** · 07-04-2008, 08:10 AM

Not going to happen. Josh and I went down to the local bar last night. I just woke up and called him, he was supposed to be here two hours ago, but he slept in too. That doesn't give us enough time to attempt this and make our evening BBQ plans so we're going up AF canyon for some sport climbing.
Sucks 'cause it'll be crowded, but maybe we'll meet some cute climber chicks...

**Brian in SLC** · 07-04-2008, 09:57 AM

Originally Posted by Don

Not going to happen.

Bummer. Oh, BTW, all the climber chicks are climbing in the Uintas today so you screwed there too. Ha ha.

Went up last night. Climbed up the left side. Kinda sketchy to solo, especially with a hornets nest forcing a more difficult, but less scratchy variation further left. Got to where I'd thought the ice screw would be, at the base of what is the second pitch of the ice climb. I see this goldish thing in the water....and...voila, its my ice screw! Just the coffee grinder gold colored handle visible in the water. Unreal. Tube is solid black from being in the water for a few months. But, still looks usable, although more stealthily colored now. Too funny. Rapped off from the last anchor to a tree on climber's left, then down climbed to a bolted anchor (very exposed) for another short rappel to the ground (only brought 100' of rope). Scored two biners and a sling, plus, found my darn ice screw.

Thanks for the inspiration!

Flow is strong, but, kinda ok. Take super care with the loose rockfall near the bottom, prior to the last rappel. Got to be a Ralston moment waiting to happen for someone in these large loose blocks. Intermediate rap anchor I mentioned above on the west side of the flow is unusable and partly buried by rock fall, so...you're only real option is to find the newer anchor on the climber's left of the flow (east side). Its not real easy to find from above, but, its there and prior to dropping down to where the waterfall comes out from underneath the boulders. If you can see an old bolt and hanger (single bolt) on a smooth rock face, then the anchor is above that (this hanger is easier to see than the anchor, which faces almost due north on a small little ledge). And, take care scrambling over to it, the terrain is very loose rocks and dirt.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

**Brian in SLC** · 07-09-2008, 06:59 AM

Ok, who got rescued last night off the icicle?

Pretty impressive SAR action with the helicopter.

Let's hear the story!

-Brian in SLC

**Don** · 07-09-2008, 07:25 AM

Originally Posted by Brian in SLC

Ok, who got rescued last night off the icicle?

Pretty impressive SAR action with the helicopter.

Let's hear the story!

-Brian in SLC

Someone else called me last night to ask if that was me. It was not me. I was in AF canyon last night and didn't even see it on the news. I too would love to hear the story.

**Iceaxe** · 07-09-2008, 08:28 AM

Here is some video of the rescue:

Great White Icicle SAR

**Jaxx** · 07-09-2008, 08:43 AM

Of course the only video of the climbers rappelling was with the rope stuck in the tree as he tried to free it.

**trackrunner** · 07-09-2008, 08:49 AM

Originally Posted by Brian in SLC

Ok, who got rescued last night off the icicle?

Pretty impressive SAR action with the helicopter.

Let's hear the story!

-Brian in SLC

I thought the same thing when I saw it on the news.

Must be the beta

j/k

**Brian in SLC** · 07-09-2008, 09:09 AM