smiling cricket

[goofball]

Wow.

For a number of reasons - Physically and mentally taxing, beautiful, and lengthy. Closest comparison to its character I can make is segers hole. But segers was brim full when i went. This was nearly empty, and after a while this just became a job and I hate working.

We awoke in the morning and headed up the waterpocket fold on the north rim side to gain access and found a nice rap in just above the start of the main narrows. ~180’ down a vertical wall to a top bench above the watercourse.

that liiiitle speck top left is a people.




Just above there is a short slot section that gives one a mini mini mini taste of what their in for.




At our first rap (of ~12 or more I guess) we saw a bolt to confirm this has seen other fools as well. I would love to talk to whoever did this for the first time. Their drawers had to have been un-stainable once out.

So after our 1st canyon rap it was ~ .75 miles of potholes. At least 20-30 I am sure (probably more like 40). And some BIG potholes. Almost all were a mix of large to small cobblestones and sand. And all but 1 or 2 were sloped slightly away from their bottom, those couple which overhang are by-passable. Some you have to rap or partner assist into. Others are dc’s. One had a cool arch in its bottom. 90% or more require partner assist exits. Mostly we did a knee-to-shoulder stand. One required a potshot. Some we were able to avoid, most w/ little to no cause for alarm. More on that later. They start out mild enough, but grow up fast. The nature of the upper canyon ph’s are water inputs down a curving chute, swirls around and scours out, then output right beside its input.








The lower canyon the water poured over into the ph and then just seems to slosh out the far side. The lower canyon ph’s mostly had diameters ~ equal to their depth. And their diameter was usually ~ 15’. The upper canyon ph’s were a little shallower though. Also had an open section about .5 way down where we bypassed a ph section of 5 or 6.




Going was sloooow. just after a long straight section past the open section we knew we weren’t getting out that day and bivied. Climbed up a side drainage and slept on flat, soft sand for that night. Not much wood to burn, never mind we had no lighter, but we kept warm enough to not shiver.

looking up canyon from where we bivied.




Next morning it was back at it ! More ph’s. After more ph’s. After yet more ph’s. O my god why do they not end !?! I am only a fan of ph’s when they are brim full and I can jump in and walk or flop out. These were bone dry or knee to waist deep. God it was exhausting ! And they keep getting bigger.

And then, the belly drop. Crap. That is big. The crux of the canyon, a ph ~40’ diameter by 50’ deep measuring from the water level up. Many dirty words, a few bad thoughts, and then we see it. This is especially where I want to hug and kiss the pioneering party. Especially as for the lead it is an unprotected job. It was a bypass route. Chimney up 20’ to the 1st of a series of hook holes, then 10-15’ of aid climbing on talons and etriers to skinny unprotected ledges 10’ below and 10’ beside a glowingly beautiful bolt and hanger. Penalty points are high to move to it but it is not a hard move for those used to climbing. And me not being a practiced climber I found it nerve wracking, but once the move was made (w/ some “shits” and “fucks” thrown in for good measure) it felt solid. Now clip in ! *whew* Once clipped in descend and traverse to another glowingly beautiful bolt and hanger ~20’ over and 10’ below. Then a little pendulum action to swing over to the far lip. Yay ! Then ferry the rest over. Or slowly peck hook holes and etrier out from the bottom.

After that it was just more big, exhausting, but very manageable ph’s. Until... Yep. ANOTHER belly drop. Not near as big though. A very skinny ph, ~20’ deep, 10’ diameter, but with a nasty overhanging far lip. A potshot may have worked here as well, conditions looked favorable I believe, but overhanging… But here there is an easy to gain bypass rap up on a ledge above. After that more of the same until we see… trees ! o’ glorious trees ! We’ve reached the nasty bushwhack out. A 20’ skinny curving chute bought us to the final bolt for a 100’ drop to the bottom. O sweet liberty !

We missed a combo rap - just barely ! But a miss is a miss. We couldn’t understand why a couple obvious rappels weren’t bolted where most others were. We also placed 3 bolts. One where there was a bolt before (2 bolts actually) so we re-utilized a hole. Another just above the final rap as that curving chute down to a barely ledge where the final bolt was placed was not visible to view from the top and had high penalty points for any error made, as well as night was approaching and hunting for a clean anchor was last on our list after 2 full days in this leviathan. And one bolt where we missed the combo rap. I was good w/ hooking, but my partner was none to keen on it so what do I care. Made him feel safer. The other 2 I was totally on board. Another error was dropping hangers and having to rap off the final bolt placed by girth hitching it not fully driven in. was more than good enough to get the 20’ or so down the curvy chute to the original bolt placed. We weren’t 100% clean.

So to recap – this is a beautiful canyon, challenging to the max between time abd sheer energy required and one particularly nasty ph problem. That crux ph is a puckerer, but the rest were readily overcome w/ some thought, effort, and teamwork. Someone better be a good climber w/ exposure tolerance for this. Rappels were all straightforward, a mix of bolted and built on the spot. Anchor material is pretty readily available throughout most of the canyon. it took us 2 full days but could be done a little faster knowing what is in store. Never would trying to do it in 1 day be viable in my mind. UNLESS it were brim full, even then it could be a long day. And if the water were too high to stand in bottoms, but too low to flop out, then Houston, we have a problem, just like some other canyons out there. Brim full I would go do this in a heartbeat. Good luck knowing when that would be though ! And that crux ph, if it weren’t full that would still be a huge obstacle. We wondered if that canyon ever does get full from head to mouth all at once. It’ll take a lot of water.

My camera went swimming 1st thing day 2, so no pics past the 1st drop of that day. Too bad too, cause them were something to see. Especially the belly dropping crux. God I hope to never ever ever ever never ever see one like that again. Not as an obstacle to have to pass anyway.

couple more pics of the beasts belly








full pics - http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563784752IzQbWd

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[stefan]

outstanding!

[denaliguide]

fantastic!

[rockgremlin]

Amazing! For the longest time there I was used to the Capital Reef area not having hardly anything good in the way of slots...then Pandora's was unleashed...and now this bastard! Wow that's impressive!

[nat]

Wow, very impressive

The crux pothole sounds amazing! Sounds like something out of a science fiction canyoneering story. From your website, it was hinted as in the Halls Creek area?

Nat

[goofball]

my body still does not think it was too wowmazatasticstanding. in fact, my body is still pretty pissed at me for doing this. hands are still like sandpaper. plus i had some allergy attack kick me in the face so i was not at 100% for all this. barely at 50%. i owe my partner a big thanks for not killing me once we got out. i slowed us down.

the waterpocket fold has many canyons cutting thru it along halls creek. i've scouted 4 others besides this one, but given their location and length of time required to access them, they aren't going to be visited much but by the truly fanatic or thrill seeking. theses aren't easy car to car loops in day. and they are not casual canyons period.

for those who like names and descent history my partner said he has friends or contacts in the allen and turville (sp?) entourages and is gonna ask about these. the bolts were .25" and "star driven" (?) which looked just like a big ass nail to me.

** in talking to my partner he thought the crux ph was only ~30' diameter and 40' deep. we tossed a potshot across and it barely cleared the far, and FLAT, lip. i still think it was bigger. maybe my belly drop response at the time influences my memory. **

[stefan]

it's quite the story, albeit quite dangerous. pulling the trigger in these slot canyons often seems to me like dropping onto a 38º slope of deep, untracked powder, not necessarily knowing the stability of the snow. the bolts of course are the added fact that the first couple skiers have laid down tracks without incidence.

it's outstanding because the canyon features inspire. and it's an outstanding tale, cause y'all pulled it off. but i must admit, while your tale is enthralling, i was left concerned, given the remote area, only the two of you in the canyon, the lack of anyone nearby to help (rim team?), lack of reversibility? being prepared for the pothole of one's fears, hoping you have equipment to make use of ... or from another angle, having afforded yourself the time, people, and equipment to devise the best approach to the obstacles.

it seems with steeply dropping canyons down a incline of navajo sandstone, potholes are relatively common. with the san rafael reef as an example, one might assume the waterpocket fold to have the potential for similar or even greater features.

i imagine you've had some time to think about your trip. i am wondering how you guys would have perceived the canyon had it not been bolted and had the difficult crux solution not been embedded in the canyon wall for you to see and work through. and whether most of the bolts throughout the canyon were necessary? you indicated that there was plenty of anchor building materials around.

moreover i just can't help but wonder how difficult you guys expected the canyon to be a priori (scouting?). it sounds like in the end you felt most of it was manageable, but like the infamous sandthrax, it just takes one obstacle to make an extreme difference.

i'd like to hear more if you're willing to share.

[FOX]

Absolutely amazing!

[seagorn]

As the partner on this harrowing descent of 'Smiling Cricket' I would just like to add that this is a beautiful canyon despite the difficulties we encountered. It would be stellar after lots of rain. Many of the potholes would be of the 'jump-in/slide-in" type. The crux pothole is so enormous that it would always have to be bypassed using the scary pendelum described in the TR, imho. Interesting, some of the PHs were full of water, some had very low water, and most bone-dry. But the big keeper clearly had water over 6 ft deep. Thus, we could not ascend the far wall using a drill and hooks. Although getting to the two high bypass bolts was scary, the hook holes placed by the pioneering party were bomber, as were the 1/4 inch bolts. Based on the size/style of the bolts and the condition of the webbing, I would guess they were placed more than 15 years ago...

This canyon required considerable difficult, exposed free climbing. Having my Sportiva canyoneering shoes with sticky rubber is what made escaping several potholes (esp the crux!) possible. I am a climber of 25 years and found some of the moves challenging...

All in all, a terrifying, rewarding experience. I think I'll be doing established canyons for awhile however =)

[Jaxx]

Very nice read. Glad you guys ended up ok.
Like Stephan I wonder if you will explore more canyons with just 2? Will you stock other gear now wishing you had it in the canyon? What were you glad you had?

[seagorn]

Very nice read. Glad you guys ended up ok.
Like Stephan I wonder if you will explore more canyons with just 2? Will you stock other gear now wishing you had it in the canyon? What were you glad you had?

No. We both agree that we will not be descending undescribed canyons any time soon. That said, in this case we both felt comfortable with the decision to descend this canyon for a few reasons. First, it had been scouted (rim-walked) by my partner months before, so we knew the access hike in/hike out, and how long the slot section would be. Second, the two adjacent canyons of similar length and shape had been recently descended by associates. They reported that the canyons had been bolted and presented no significant difficulties. We assumed (falsely!) that this third canyon would be similar. Third, we had a great weather window, and knew there had been rain a week before so the potholes had a chance of being filled. Finally, we were a strong team, despite being only two, given our experience, my climbing skills, and the gear we brought in with us (potshots, many hooks, bolt kit, lots of webbing, 200 ft rope/200 ft pull cord, neoprene tops).

While we made it out safely, we have to count ourselves lucky given the conditions of the canyon and the sudden illness that befell my partner. I would like to return with a larger team and after sigificant rain to do all three of the slots in this area (Smiling Cricket, Happy Dog, Baboon Laughs). What a fantastic area to camp/expore either way!

[goofball]

yah, seagorn, you explain it !

let dad wag his finger at someone else, i'm tired of bein g "tsk-tsk'd"



i knew this canyon was longer and had a gentler slope head to mouth and comjectured that ='d (possibly) less difficultys to encounter. and after hearing reports from the other 2 i shared and then seeing this one w/ a bolt before commitment, my attitude is - if its BEEN done, it can BE done. no more solo jumps for sure, but like minded people who are confident and competent i'd love to jump w/ on occasion. and in the end the only way to know is to go, having seen as much as possible from prior scouting and approach this time. i guess my tolerance for risk is abnormally high. i like to say that looking back i repent, it was foolish, i was wrong... but really i don't feel it. fear is something i don't feel easily. and when it does come, it fades fast and anger, or "ok, what do i DO now" replaces it. i know i am abnormal.

one thing i know someone would have definitley done different is BRING A BIVY BAG/BLANKET. i mentioned it several times before going, just in case. some people just do not listen

[goofball]

i imagine you've had some time to think about your trip. i am wondering how you guys would have perceived the canyon had it not been bolted and had the difficult crux solution not been embedded in the canyon wall for you to see and work through. and whether most of the bolts throughout the canyon were necessary? you indicated that there was plenty of anchor building materials around.

moreover i just can't help but wonder how difficult you guys expected the canyon to be a priori (scouting?). it sounds like in the end you felt most of it was manageable, but like the infamous sandthrax, it just takes one obstacle to make an extreme difference.

i'd like to hear more if you're willing to share.

guess i'm a glutton for finger wagging...

had that 1st mandatory drop, point of no return NOT been bolted, i was prepared to fix a rope, go to the next, and see. knowing that the other 2 neighbors were fairly tame, and seeing this one from the start in keeper mode, did give reason for assesment. my memory is emotional, not concrete, so i can't remember if the bolts were mostly needed or unnecessary. natural anchor material was available thru most of the canyon, even if it meant time and labor to ferry it. i've never been accused of finesse or "points for style", as well as this being an unknown, so speed was more on our mind. as much as possible since by 3/4 thru day 1 my allergies had sapped me. but in the end that worked perfect, had we been faster we may have past our bivy point much earlier in the day and had a very uncomfy and scarier night. and as before the only way to know is to go unless you can see all from the rim and have 100% certainty of obstacles. here we had one really nasty one, other wise it was just a physically demanding canyon w/ obstacles that can be thought out and overcome readily w/ time and/or thought. had the bypass not been there ? maybe we still would be ? but we would have had to do something.

these and the above are my thoughts. others will most certainly vary. i am fine w/ the thoughts in my head and do not lose sleep or feel ashamed over them. i do cry inside though that it means i may never get to canyon w/ this person or that person.





oh my god ! i almost, almost kept a straight face there ! *whew* oh my...

[stefan]

hi jason,

finger waggin'? no, not the intentions of my post ... i think it's no kidding that you received a fair share

i read your report and voiced worries that were running through my head while reading your TR, which only reveals a little of your exploration and experience. i was naturally interested in understanding more.

and as before the only way to know is to go unless you can see all from the rim and have 100% certainty of obstacles.

true, but there are many ways of "going" ... no?

[nat]

Great name "smiling cricket"! Sounds almost Buddist or something "Happy Dog" is pretty cool too. I'd like to pick your guys brains on a couple of things. Is the crux pothole really 50 ft deep from water level to lip?! I still can't get over that. Also, if I understand correctly, on the hook traverse and climb to the first bolt, you were 50-70 ft above the bottom of the pothole? If the traverse didn't work for some reason, would it be possible (with a drill) to hook your way out at the end of the pothole?

Great job!

Nat

[Iceaxe]

Nice job Goof.... and thanks for the awesome TR and pictures.....

[Iceaxe]

If the traverse didn't work for some reason, would it be possible (with a drill) to hook your way out at the end of the pothole?

I think he already answered that....

Then a little pendulum action to swing over to the far lip. Yay ! Then ferry the rest over. Or slowly peck hook holes and etrier out from the bottom.

[Scott Card]

Great Story!!!! Um.... if you ever need some fellers to make up a team in this canyon again, I know a couple of good climbers and two older guys who tag along who would go in a heart beat. Great photos and too bad about the camera. I would really like to see the beast (crux pothole) This sounds like a nasty hike if you have to do it as an overnighter. Heavy packs in and out of pot holes? Wait, sounds like Heaps but without the water. I do love the pot holes and partner assist stuff. Thanks for the report.

[nat]

If the traverse didn't work for some reason, would it be possible (with a drill) to hook your way out at the end of the pothole?

I think he already answered that....

Yes, but this was contradicted by seagorn:

"But the big keeper clearly had water over 6 ft deep. Thus, we could not ascend the far wall using a drill and hooks."

Nat

[trackrunner]

If the traverse didn't work for some reason, would it be possible (with a drill) to hook your way out at the end of the pothole?

I think he already answered that....

Yes, but this was contradicted by seagorn:

"But the big keeper clearly had water over 6 ft deep. Thus, we could not ascend the far wall using a drill and hooks."

Nat

He could explain it better but if I understand correctly drilling holes while floating will push you off the wall. some one else has to hold you up against the wall so you don't float away.