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Thread: Weat Chex? Checkerboard Mesa in Zion.

  1. #1

    Weat Chex? Checkerboard Mesa in Zion.

    I did that continuous crack/runnel on the Checkerboard yesterday. It was fun and definatly an adventure. Its the main crack that is continuous to the top (Well almost). The only piece of gear I saw was an OLD bong 1/2 burried by sand at the start of pitch 2. The first and third pitches were the BEST and I'd say they were 5.8 R and FUN. Gear was interesting and with no perminant belays, you can really stretch the rope out. The fourth pitch could be a direct shot up to the top if there were a few fixed pins. The crack disapears and falling 60+ feet on slab isn't inviting. Instead we traversed left at the big tree, then up a gully. After toping out we wandered around till we found a path leading down the Eastern slot. Took 6 hours total.

    The big question is;
    Who and when was the First Ascent?
    Any other routes Folks know of?
    Kevin
    A good mountaineer dies in his bed.
    I'm always looking for rock or ice route info and a partner.

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  3. #2

    Re: Weat Chex? Checkerboard Mesa in Zion.

    Quote Originally Posted by climbinghalfdome
    IThe big question is;
    Who and when was the First Ascent?
    Any other routes Folks know of?
    I seem to recall the park had some info in the "black book" and maybe a route topo even. The main face has been a well known route for many years, and, has seen a few ascents.

    A friend did a variation and/or new route somewhere on the face. The infamous Brutus of Wyde. I believe he left his route info at the park.

    The guys at Zion Rock maintain a HUGE notebook of route info. I'd give them a try for specifics too.

    -Brian in SLC

  4. #3

    Re: Weat Chex? Checkerboard Mesa in Zion.

    Quote Originally Posted by climbinghalfdome
    I did that continuous crack/runnel on the Checkerboard yesterday.
    The big question is;Who and when was the First Ascent?
    Some recent info I've seen:

    Carter Howell and Eric Sanford in April of 1976.

    Jim Beyer purportedly did a bunch of routes on Crazy Quilt to the west as well in the 70's.

    Cheers,

    -Brian in SLC

  5. #4

    Re: Weat Chex? Checkerboard Mesa in Zion.

    Quote Originally Posted by climbinghalfdome
    I did that continuous crack/runnel on the Checkerboard yesterday. It was fun and definatly an adventure. Its the main crack that is continuous to the top (Well almost). The only piece of gear I saw was an OLD bong 1/2 burried by sand at the start of pitch 2. The first and third pitches were the BEST and I'd say they were 5.8 R and FUN. Gear was interesting and with no perminant belays, you can really stretch the rope out. The fourth pitch could be a direct shot up to the top if there were a few fixed pins. The crack disapears and falling 60+ feet on slab isn't inviting. Instead we traversed left at the big tree, then up a gully. After toping out we wandered around till we found a path leading down the Eastern slot. Took 6 hours total.

    The big question is;
    Who and when was the First Ascent?
    Any other routes Folks know of?
    Kevin
    Not too sure of the first ascent, but I know that Bill Murphy had the first Skiing Descent!

    I did the route you refer to "Wheat Chex" back in 1993 with Wayne Harding. It was our very first "naturally protected multipitch" ever! I remember 2 "bongs" half buried? I also remember the 2 last pitches as being very wet and gritty? It was an adventure as you suggest. One thing it did for Wayne and I is to catapult us onto other goods. Thereafter he and I had fun adventures doing a 1st on Paria Point at 5.11, A-3+ V, then went onto the two classcis in Snow Canyon, "Living on the Edge" 4P-5.10, and "Aftershock" 4P-5.11.

    Wheat Chex was a stimulus for us at the time to move on! I would love to go back and climb it again! (Maybe even ski it with enough coverage, Bill Murphy! You are awesome!)

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