Finally First Ice of the Season

[jumar]

Just did a quick little local climb that my wife likes. At least it's some ice! Here's a couple pics.

[Jaxx]

That looks cold! How do you keep your hands warm. Is it just good gloves or hand warmers in them?

[jumar]

It's usually not too cold in utah climbing, at least on these little local routes. Your hands tend to get a little colder while climbing, bc your hands are above your head, but it's not too bad.

[accadacca]

Coolness. Keep 'em comin'!

[asdf]

so where were you climbing?

[jumar]

Battlecreek Falls. It doesn't come in real consistantly, and the two routes we did are pretty short. But it's close, and not crowded. We end up going here a lot just because of that.

[Brian in SLC]

Battlecreek Falls. It doesn't come in real consistantly, and the two routes we did are pretty short. But it's close, and not crowded. We end up going here a lot just because of that.

Chatted with D to the K yesterday, catchin' up on ice conditions, and he mentioned that he climbed a route near Battle Creek Falls, but, to the right after or near the bridge (?). Was wondering if you knew anything about the other ice in the area.

Nice pics. Have to get down that way and climb it some time. Wonder how it would be in the wild weather of this weekend? Is the area semi safe with regard to avy conditions, fresh snow, and much wind loading??

Got a friend who's jonsin' to swing tools, and, we're tryin' to conjure up a reasonable spot that won't be super affected by this weekend's nasty weather (especially in regards to avy potential). I'm thinkin' Provo Canyon might be kinda sketchy. Santaquin is no go for me (way too many close calls in there in similar weather patterns). Maple can be ok in a blizzard, and, according to Darren, kinda in right now. Some of the stuff in Spanish Fhark canyon might be ok (still haven't picked off all them flows yet).

Hmmm...thoughts?

-Brian in SLC

[jumar]

Battlecreek Falls. It doesn't come in real consistantly, and the two routes we did are pretty short. But it's close, and not crowded. We end up going here a lot just because of that.

Chatted with D to the K yesterday, catchin' up on ice conditions, and he mentioned that he climbed a route near Battle Creek Falls, but, to the right after or near the bridge (?). Was wondering if you knew anything about the other ice in the area.

Nice pics. Have to get down that way and climb it some time. Wonder how it would be in the wild weather of this weekend? Is the area semi safe with regard to avy conditions, fresh snow, and much wind loading??

Got a friend who's jonsin' to swing tools, and, we're tryin' to conjure up a reasonable spot that won't be super affected by this weekend's nasty weather (especially in regards to avy potential). I'm thinkin' Provo Canyon might be kinda sketchy. Santaquin is no go for me (way too many close calls in there in similar weather patterns). Maple can be ok in a blizzard, and, according to Darren, kinda in right now. Some of the stuff in Spanish Fhark canyon might be ok (still haven't picked off all them flows yet).

Hmmm...thoughts?

-Brian in SLC

We're trying to make the same decision.
This is the route that's in Dave Black's book, probably the one you heard about. It's just a ways up from the bridge (15 min from where you park). You can see the draw above the climb. Could get some slides coming down that, but I haven't seen or heard of anything too big coming down that in the handful of years I've climbed around there.

The ice last weekend wasn't as thick as in this pic. Looked thin but climbable. Might need stubbies.


The main two falls have too much water running, so they only freeze on the sides, and sometimes over the running water. They're short (less than 50'), so might be kind of boring for you.

I like the area mainly because so few people climb here, and it's so close (with a short approach). That, and it's easy enough to bring my wife and nephew.

[jumar]

Just looked in Dave's book. It's called Pure Fun in his book. 75 feet, short curtains and steps. Rappel from trees. The only other thing he says is possible other routes in the canyon, but appear to be little more than boulder moves under 10m in length. That's been my experience too, as I've hiked further up the canyon.

[Iceaxe]

55 degrees outside in Draper at the moment.... that can't be good for the ice.