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Thread: Seeking Sandthrax Beta

  1. #1

    Seeking Sandthrax Beta

    Hey there,

    On the same weekend that I'm bringing a bunch of folks out to the
    North Wash area, a friend and I are planning on attempting Sandthrax
    canyon. Was looking to see if anyone who has gone through it would
    share any beta they thought was relevant and helpful.

    Currently planning on going as light as possible, with a rim team for
    emergency purposes (with radios; that I've been told may or may not
    work. Whistles used as backup communication.) What I've been told is
    that the highest rap is 30'. I was planning on bringing a 40' 8mm,
    and a 50' 6mm pull. I was told the crux could be protected with a 5
    and two 6 cams. Not wanting to carry that much weight/bulk, could we
    afford some protection carrying a 3 and a 4 big brother instead?
    Other recommendations?


    Thanks!
    A.J.

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  3. #2
    Sandthrax Canyon
    http://climb-utah.com/Powell/sandthrax.htm

    This is the gear list from my Sandthrax Webpage....

    In addition to your standard technical gear the following items are recommended for defeating the crux of the route. Two #5 camlots, two #6 camlots and one #4 Big Bro. This should allow you to climb or aid the crux. This is a minimum suggested rack.

    Now blow the dust off your wallet and sign up.


  4. #3

    Re: Seeking Sandthrax Beta

    Quote Originally Posted by AJ
    Hey there,

    Currently planning on going as light as possible, with a rim team for
    emergency purposes (with radios; that I've been told may or may not
    work. Whistles used as backup communication.) What I've been told is
    that the highest rap is 30'. I was planning on bringing a 40' 8mm,
    and a 50' 6mm pull. I was told the crux could be protected with a 5
    and two 6 cams. Not wanting to carry that much weight/bulk, could we
    afford some protection carrying a 3 and a 4 big brother instead?
    Other recommendations?


    Thanks!
    A.J.
    If you are going to free climb it, or mostly free climb it as a conventional lead, I would bring the equivalent of a 5" cam for anchoring the belay (something to fit a 4-5in crack) and then 2 6" cams or equivalent size big bro's (for 5-6 in crack). If you have to aid the whole crux, then Shane's suggested rack would do. That is, at least one piece for bigger than 6". The wider part at the top is a bit easier.
    nat smale

  5. #4
    Thanks for the info Shane and Nat!

    Shane, had your info from several friends, but thought it seemed overkill. (No offense.) Wanted to get the opinions of some that might have done it recently...

    Nat, plan on free climbing it for as long as I feel comfortable. Won't know how far that is until I get there though.... ;)

  6. #5
    With my suggested rack you should be able to aid the crux. So yeah.... it's over kill if you have the skill to climb it.

    Also a "woodie" might be helpful and eliminate the body chokes I've seen some use. A woodie is just a 2"x2"x2'-0" wood dowel that you can wedge above the crux and use to anchor a rope.

  7. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe
    With my suggested rack you should be able to aid the crux. So yeah.... it's over kill if you have the skill to climb it.

    Also a "woodie" might be helpful and eliminate the body chokes I've seen some use. A woodie is just a 2"x2"x2'-0" wood dowel that you can wedge above the crux and use to anchor a rope.
    You ever actually done it Shane? Gotta know the reliability of the beta before I'd trust it...

    AJ, I did it with Nat.We used a #3 BigBro near the bottom, then cams above. I know a BB is nice if you need to end up using it as a foot hold... Not that I am guilty of that... Yeah right!

    My limited experience with other off-width climbing in the desert is that you may be best off using a #6 or #5 and slide it up as you go above you. Placing, then passing gear in an off-width can be a huge pain.

    Good luck on freeing it! No way I could free it back when we did it. I'd like to get back and give it a go now though, since I've been climbing more these days.

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by deserthiker
    You ever actually done it Shane? Gotta know the reliability of the beta before I'd trust it...
    Just curious Ryan.... Why do you persist in trying to be an ass?

    But ya.... I've done it.

    Now I have a question for you Ryan..... do you ever do anything useful for the canyoneering community or do you just like to sit back and toss turd bombs? I know it just kills you that your not a major somebody. If you really want to be a somebody how about you do something useful or positive?


  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe
    Quote Originally Posted by deserthiker
    You ever actually done it Shane? Gotta know the reliability of the beta before I'd trust it...
    Just curious Ryan.... Why do you persist in trying to be an ass?

    But ya.... I've done it.
    Congrats. Last I heard you had not.

    I am insistent on knowing if information given is first hand or not, because once it is second hand, it looses quality quickly. I asked recently about Endless Eden (and got no response) because I would like to do it, but want to get information from someone who has done it first hand. (and know when they did it so I have an idea if the conditions are current or several years old, and at what lake level they did it)

    I have had several experiences where someone gave me beta second hand from a friend, and it turned out wrong or incomplete. Is there an issue with saying whether your information is first hand or not?

    I am trying to make sure if I am heading somewhere I have good info, or at least know it's not first hand so I can hunt down other sources.

    Cheers.

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by deserthiker
    Congrats. Last I heard you had not.
    I didn't know we were supposed to clear our trips through you. I'm sure this will come as a big surprise to you but there is a lot you haven't heard.

    Quote Originally Posted by deserthiker
    I asked recently about Endless Eden (and got no response)
    I did a quick search and can find no record of you requesting Eden beta on uutah. Maybe that was your mistake. Or perhaps no one shared beta with you because you have a bad reputation for being a taker and not a giver..... it's a two way street. Beta is a gift, not a right.

    As for the rest I guess that's a personal hang up you'll have to deal with. I've received poor first hand beta and outstanding second hand beta. More important to me is who supplied the beta and any recommendations or comments that accompany the beta. But again, I guess that's a personal issue everyone must deal with in their own way. I suggest all beta be taken with a grain of salt.


  11. #10
    Beta is a gift? Does that mean we get free CoF memberships now? Great news! Thanks Shane.

    Gift: (noun)
    1. something given voluntarily without payment in return, as to show favor toward someone, honor an occasion, or make a gesture of assistance; present.
    2. the act of giving.
    3. something bestowed or acquired without any particular effort by the recipient or without its being earned:

  12. #11



    oh sh!t, i almost fell off my chair. i know it's out of context, but was a good laugh.

    upon glancing at climb-utah i just noticed, shane, you've upped it to $30 per year. just exactly what guidebooks are you comparing to? probably should just scrap that phrase, no?

  13. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe
    Quote Originally Posted by deserthiker
    You ever actually done it Shane? Gotta know the reliability of the beta before I'd trust it...
    Just curious Ryan.... Why do you persist in trying to be an ass?

    But ya.... I've done it.
    actually, i remember shane mentioning he had done it as recently as circa 2005.

    http://uutah.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6311#6311

  14. #13
    So I am confused now I'm not trying to be a prick, I promise this is just and honest question. I just looked at that list Stefan posted, remembering reading it in 2005 and oooh'ing and ahhh'ing at all the canyons Shane listed that I hadn't heard of. Thought it would be fun to read it again and see how many I now know about and have done... but I scratched my head when I read that Shane listed Tierdrop? In Feb. of 2007 I went with Shane and a bunch of uutah'ers to go looking for Tierdrop. You had received a tip as to where you thought it was and we wandered around along the top of the mesa for a while searching for what we had seen in photos and a possible anchor. We finally found it and you soon put it on your site... so if you did it in 2005 why did you not know where it was in 2007? Is there a different Tierdrop Canyon you did in 2005 that I don't know about? Just curious

    Eric

  15. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by stefan
    upon glancing at climb-utah i just noticed, shane, you've upped it to $30 per year. just exactly what guidebooks are you comparing to? probably should just scrap that phrase, no?
    Hmm... That's a bummer. $30 to renew next year. Can you just take the money I donated to fantasy football and call it even?

  16. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by shaggy125
    but I scratched my head when I read that Shane listed Tierdrop?

    shane should answer of course.

    ... but i have noticed that the photo he posted on that page (called tierdrop) is what desert highlights refers to as krill canyon.

  17. #16
    Shaggy, when I did Teirdrop with you it was the first time I had ever done the route.... the confusion comes from a route known as Krill (aka: Blimp Hanger). For a long time we thought Krill was Teirdrop and called it such.

    I believe I pointed out Krill to you during our trip, it's near Lomation.



    As for the rest of you retards..... the best gifts cost

    The stuff I post here is a freebie

  18. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by CarpeyBiggs
    Hmm... That's a bummer. $30 to renew next year.
    Renewals are $20..... Initial fees went up and renewals are down.

    Once you join the dark side we don't want ya jumping ship.


  19. #18
    Ahhh... ok, was that the one you called "Belly of the Whale," something like that? Marc wanted to do it but you said Lomation was better? Makes sense now. Thanks.

    Eric.

  20. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe
    As for the rest of you retards..... the best gifts cost

    The stuff I post here is a freebie
    Yeah, when it comes to your gifts, we know we have to pay. I guess we are retards for paying for it... Does that make us "givers" or "takers?" And since you are taking from our pocket, does that make you a "giver" or a "taker?"

    I am curious about Eden though. Why you giving that one away out of the kindness of your heart? That would make a nice addition to your little website, yet you threw that beta around ever so casually. Perhaps even worth the $5 increase in annual cost...

  21. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe
    Renewals are $20..... Initial fees went up and renewals are down.

    Once you join the dark side we don't want ya jumping ship.

    Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification.

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