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Thread: Via Ferratas
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05-10-2007, 06:55 PM #1
Via Ferratas
I saw the topic of Via Ferratas and the new emplacement in Ogden as a controversial Topic. Whats the Beef? Geeze! We can build new developments at a wildfire pace, new roads to access these developments, more cars to reach these developments, more grocery stores to feed the occupants for these developments, more schools to educate the kids of the parents of these developments.....what happened to recreation for the kids of these developments?
I spent just one week in Italy 5 years ago and saw what I would like to see happen in America. ACTIVITY and PRESERVATION of the NATURAL RESOURCES. Granted....Via Ferratas are a part of the history, but supply a wholesome (unlike x-box, nintendo) activity to all. What the HELL is wrong with putting a little bit of 'ferrata' in the rock to provide a wholesome, exciting experience for those not content with sitting eating a bag of Lays?
Just a little (very little) history. Ferrata Lipella. An access to Tofana di Rozes. The Austrians were bombing the hell out of the Italians. The Italians created a Via made of Ferrata to access a butress on the west side of the Tofana. Dug a 1/4 mile tunnel in the solid Dolomite and placed explosives at the end to bring them down. Historic? Yes! Now one of MANY Via Ferratas preserved in Northern Italy. BUT BUT BUT BUT.........They provide recreation for everyone, history or not! I Walked around Tre Cime di Lavaredo on a Sunday Afternoon. Moms and Dads with their young ones on a picnic as the snow flurries made us cover our faces. Did it stop them? Heck No!
Why can't we get out here in Amarica and recreate!? Oh yeah! I forgot about the impact of some cables and bolts up high that will piss off those that would probably never have gone up there anyway?
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05-10-2007 06:55 PM # ADS
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05-10-2007, 09:43 PM #2
Re: Via Ferratas
Originally Posted by Bo_Beck
My beef with via ferratas is that it is a cheap thrill ride at the fair type thing that's not warrented especially on public land, especially given how kids these days, with a small amount of application, can out climb most of us older folks within a month or two of training.
what happened to recreation for the kids of these developments?
I spent just one week in Italy 5 years ago and saw what I would like to see happen in America. ACTIVITY and PRESERVATION of the NATURAL RESOURCES. Granted....Via Ferratas are a part of the history, but supply a wholesome (unlike x-box, nintendo) activity to all. What the HELL is wrong with putting a little bit of 'ferrata' in the rock to provide a wholesome, exciting experience for those not content with sitting eating a bag of Lays?
Ferrata Lipella. An access to Tofana di Rozes. The Austrians were bombing the hell out of the Italians. The Italians created a Via made of Ferrata to access a butress on the west side of the Tofana. Dug a 1/4 mile tunnel in the solid Dolomite and placed explosives at the end to bring them down.
They provide recreation for everyone, history or not!
IWalked around Tre Cime di Lavaredo on a Sunday Afternoon. Moms and Dads with their young ones on a picnic as the snow flurries made us cover our faces. Did it stop them? Heck No!
Why can't we get out here in Amarica and recreate!?
Oh yeah! I forgot about the impact of some cables and bolts up high that will piss off those that would probably never have gone up there anyway?
I don't think a Via Ferrata park will save the non-outdoorsy American youth. They don't seem to even like getting outside to hike. Would be a short term fix for a much bigger problem. Basic physical fitness would be nice.
Seems like with the trail up Angel's Landing and the old Lady Mountain trail (not to mention a bazillion sports climbs around St. George), you already have some "iron ways" to choose from. Ditto them fixed anchor friendly canyoneering routes (ha ha).
And, what's wrong with kids appreciating the natural world, instead of going to Disneyland? Or feeling like they HAVE to go to Disneyland.
Cheers Bo!
-Brian in SLC
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05-10-2007, 09:44 PM #3
nice pics. I hope the one up here in Ogden gets a little more attention.
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05-11-2007, 05:34 AM #4
Re: Via Ferratas
Originally Posted by Brian in SLC
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05-11-2007, 10:06 AM #5
Re: Via Ferratas
Originally Posted by Bo_Beck
Some "activation energy" might be required to get the reaction going, eh?
No wonder ATV/OHV stuff is popular... Be interesting to know the demographics of folks that get interested in the outdoors as an adreniline pursuit or throttle junkie, and then find hiking and backpacking, maybe climbing, backcountry skiing, etc, to their liking after that. We can only hope.
Ran into some geocacher folks in Montana last year. They were pretty heavy set. At the trailhead, we exchanged info on the area (Moose Creek trailhead, gateway to the Humbug Spires and specifically for us, the Wedge). They thought we were kinda nuts to be climbing. I told them I didn't care for the geocache thing, as leaving stuff in the forest to maybe never be retrieved at a later date just seemed like trash to me. But, they were so psyched, and, it provided the motivation for them to get out and hike, it made me reconsider the benifit of any type of activity that gets folks out. Nice bunch of folks, too. They had a pretty hard day (I knew from the descriptions they had where the cache was, 3 miles one way). But, there they were. And the more obscure, harder to get to and longer day type caches were what they were psyched about. Even geocachers have braggin' rights!
So, yeah, I see your point about folks just getting out, whatever the motivation.
See you on the hill sometime, Bo, we need to climb together. I got some idears for your area...something adventurous, close by, maybe in Arizona...(think...VRG and ridge climbs, speaking of the Dolomites!).
-Brian in SLC
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06-06-2007, 07:55 AM #6
Not to be mean or anything, and I mean this in a kind way, but here is my own opinion:
I have to admit that I think putting Via Ferratas all over the place is not a good idea in my opinion. To me, it's the equivalent of doing to a mountain wall what the Navajos have done to Antelope Canyon.
PRESERVATION of the NATURAL RESOURCES
I spent just one week in Italy 5 years ago and saw what I would like to see happen in America.
I don't understand why anyone whom is a climber could ever advocate something like a Via Ferrata. I think it's sad and equivalent to doing what they did to Antelope Canyon.
I forgot about the impact of some cables and bolts up high that will piss off those that would probably never have gone up there anyway?
To sum it up, in my opinion, there are plenty of Via Ferratas, Iron Routes, Cable Routes, ski lifts, trams, and roads to the summits of many mountains in the USA, and we don't need to build them up every mountain or wall.Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.
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06-06-2007, 08:55 AM #7
Not meant to be mean, but . . .
Originally Posted by Scott Patterson
Scott, 99.9% of climbing involves small metal bolts, or no protection at all.
Very little wilderness area is accessible to ATVs.
It's okay to let other people enjoy doing different activities. I don't ride ATVs often, but they don't bother me. I haven't ever climbed Via Ferrata, but I plan on it. As I understand, it's a fairly legitimate form of climbing . . not exactly one for the overweight.
If you never want to be bothered by anyone ever again, the Brazilian rainforest is a nice option. Starting your posts off with "not meant to be mean but . . . " and then attacking what everyone else enjoys is not necessarily nice.It's my job to call the BS around here. Get over it.
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06-06-2007, 09:18 AM #8Scott, 99.9% of climbing involves small metal bolts, or no protection at all.
Also, I doubt that 99.9% of climbing is done with bolts or no protection. That's BS. Trad, ice, glacier mountaineering, etc. is still climbing and makes up more than the 0.1% of climbing that you imply.
Very little wilderness area is accessible to ATVs.
I haven't ever climbed Via Ferrata, but I plan on it
If you want to visit routes that are already fixed or modified (by cable, ladder, steps, etc), there are plenty already available.
You go canyoneering. Would you like to see dozens or hundreds of canyons go the way of Antelope?
It's okay to let other people enjoy doing different activities.
A few via Ferrata are fine, but how many is enough. They do attract crowds. Shouldn't there be some areas one could go without seeing works of man?
Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.
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06-06-2007, 09:43 AM #9Originally Posted by Scott Patterson
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06-06-2007, 10:12 AM #10Originally Posted by Scott PattersonIt's my job to call the BS around here. Get over it.
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06-06-2007, 12:49 PM #11Originally Posted by Scott Patterson
I'm mostly a trad type climber. Not sure exact numbers, but, last count was over 120 pitches this year, and, my bet is less than 5% is sport climbing. That's not to say that fixed anchors at the top of trad routes weren't used (and usually appreciated), though.
And...I'd be hugely disappointed to see Via Ferrata become popular here, and would have an especially hard time with them on public land. I've done one in Europe, and, understand some of the history of them, but, they're also very controversial in some locations over there as well. Where they aren't historical, and, are being installed to increase tourism especially.
Fixed anchor climbing percentages? Hard to put a number on. Tons of folks sports climb, but, a ton of folk also peak bag too, without any fixed anchors, for miles at a time. Look how popular Hood is, or Rainier, for instance.
Not to speak for Bo, but, my guess is the gist of his point was that anything to get kids and folks outside for any recreation would be good at this point. Part of me agrees, but, part of me wishes that folks would appreciate a more natural, less adreniline theme park-esque type form of recreation. Ie, not sport rappelling, but, learning how to climb and then rappel like a climber would. Ie, because the position demands it, but, not as a cheap thrill. Via Ferratas seem more like a cheap thrill.
Was funny, I went to the Odgen climbing festival which had some component of it related to the Mahlans area Via Ferrata. One of the shiny, pro festival folks was all bubbly about trying the Via Ferrata and asked me if I couldn't just wait to do it. Didn't want to totally kill her psyche, but, I tried to explain that most climbers absolutely do not like a Via Ferrata, but instead prefer to just rock climb. As a non climber, I'm not sure she understood completely, but, tried to. Was a quasi weird conversation and I'm not sure either one of us understood each other.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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06-06-2007, 01:14 PM #12Originally Posted by Brian in SLC
I climb to push myself, my physical abilities, my mental aptitude. I don't climb for adreneline. Same goes for Mt. Biking, Canyoneering, etc. etc.
People enjoy things in different ways. I don't think that there should be many VFs, but there should be a few, and I'm not going to dictate how someone has to enjoy them.
I don't watch to make sure that everyone that has a handicap sticker in his car is handicapped to the extent that I think he should be. I'm fine with handicap parking places.
We just need to keep in mind that VF is not going to overrun all of the climbing in the West, Global warming isn't going to destroy the planet, and we ourselves are the only people that keep us from enjoying life.
Now - in an attempt to make a related statement(perhaps an example of what I mean), but not shift the topic too much: When we were coming down from Morning Glory Arch, I checked the register. The last people to sign before us complained about people "climbing" on the arch. Obviously they misunderstood rappelling, but that's not the point. They went on for 4 lines about how their trip had been ruined by the other people at the arch.
I just refuse to allow my trips to be ruined because I find some trash, hear some noise, come accross a new bolt, etc. The last line in the register said "Beautiful arch, horrible people." I guess that makes me horrible.It's my job to call the BS around here. Get over it.
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06-06-2007, 01:15 PM #13I don't think that there should be many VFs, but there should be a few
I'm mostly a trad type climber. Not sure exact numbers, but, last count was over 120 pitches this year, and, my bet is less than 5% is sport climbing. That's not to say that fixed anchors at the top of trad routes weren't used (and usually appreciated), though.
And...I'd be hugely disappointed to see Via Ferrata become popular here, and would have an especially hard time with them on public land.
I've done one in Europe, and, understand some of the history of them, but, they're also very controversial in some locations over there as well.Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.
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06-06-2007, 01:17 PM #14Originally Posted by Brian in SLC
Sounds like a bunch of elitists again hording all of the climbing fun to only the highly skilled.
I'll probably never do either, but whenever there is controversy over making something easier, you know who started it.
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06-06-2007, 01:17 PM #15
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Originally Posted by Scott Patterson
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06-06-2007, 01:32 PM #16Sounds like a bunch of elitists again hording all of the climbing fun to only the highly skilled.
By way of comparison, mountains like K2 have killed around 50 and Everest around 200 in it's entire history. It's just that deaths on mountains like that get all the publicity. In reality, it's the popular and crowded mountains in places like Europe or Japan that see far more deaths. In two years, Mont Blanc for example kills more than Everest does in 50. Most of it is due to inexperience.
I don't think that via Feratta will necessarily make climbing safer. In fact (forgive if sounds elitist) they can attract a lot of people that are inexperienced that otherwise would never have tried the mountain.Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.
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06-07-2007, 10:40 AM #17Originally Posted by Scott Patterson
The Mont Blanc region sees a number of fatalities per season, but, are you really saying that one single mountain kills 100 folks per year? No way.
And, I'd be curious to see the demographics pointing to "most" being inexperienced.
The issue with Mont Blanc is that it is easily accessable. You take a tram from Les Houches (or some such), to a train, then a short steep hike to get to the standard route, which has a hut to camp in at the start of the glacier, and a hut up higher for rescue (which gets loaded with hurtin' folks!). So, from 3k' in Cham, you get to 12k in a day or so.
Inexperience or not, folks get affected by the huge altitude gain, icey conditions, fast, harsh and changing weather conditions, etc. Easy to make a mistake, experience or no.
And, with some of the deteriorating snow/ice conditions in the alps, I think they even closed the area a couple years ago to climbing as conditions got so dangerous.
I'm, uhhh, 0 for 1 on Mont Blanc due to trying to summit in a lenticular cloud, downclimbing the easy summit ridge...scary at the time...
I don't think that via Feratta will necessarily make climbing safer. In fact (forgive if sounds elitist) they can attract a lot of people that are inexperienced that otherwise would never have tried the mountain.
Hard to not sound elitist, but, I think the Via Ferrata thing crosses the line in terms of impact.
-Brian in SLC
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06-07-2007, 11:20 AM #18Where do you get that information? I'm curious, because it doesn't sound correct at all.
http://www.westcoastpeaks.com/Peaks/mtblanc.html
The Mont Blanc region sees a number of fatalities per season, but, are you really saying that one single mountain kills 100 folks per year? No way.
Here are a few news stories for you:
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...ain%20Climbing
One winter (not all Blanc):
http://pistehors.com/news/ski/commen...nts-2005-2006/
The deaths are not all specificially climbers, but include hikers, skiers, tourist, etc. Keep in mind that in 1970, for example, and avalanches in the Chamonix area took out over 100 people in winter alone.
Quotes on Blanc:
Mt. Blanc is likely the deadliest mountain on earth precisely because many beginners want to "hike" up it, while it is a real "big mountain". Last summer an acquaintance of mine from Ireland was killed on the crux section of the "Three Summits" route when his partner feel and pulled him off. Also some friends witnessed a guide and client fall to their deaths on the same route just a few days later. And people fall in crevasses commonly in the Mt. Blanc massif.
The Matterhorn apparently sees several dozens of deaths in most years.
Not all deadly mountains in Europe are in the Alps, however. Apparently in 2004, 48 deaths occurred on Mount Elbrus, but several were snowboarders and skiers.
The issue with Mont Blanc is that it is easily accessable. You take a tram from Les Houches (or some such), to a train, then a short steep hike to get to the standard route, which has a hut to camp in at the start of the glacier, and a hut up higher for rescue (which gets loaded with hurtin' folks!). So, from 3k' in Cham, you get to 12k in a day or so.
Hard to not sound elitist, but, I think the Via Ferrata thing crosses the line in terms of impact.Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.
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06-07-2007, 12:12 PM #19Originally Posted by Scott Patterson
"Apparently, number of deaths per year is close to 100, and thousands of people have been killed on the massif. "
No statistics at all. And, typical statement tossed out with no supporting data. I'm hopin' you don't believe everything you read on the 'net...
Yes way and assuming the stats are correct, but it is possible the stats cover the Mont Blanc Massif as Mont Blanc, but not sure. The book Eiger Wall of Death, uses the statistic of 50 per year for Blanc, but was written decades ago.
Again, list some stats if you have them. Posting a story here and there from years gone by doesn't add up to 100 people a year.
Here are a few news stories for you:
The deaths are not all specificially climbers, but include hikers, skiers, tourist, etc. Keep in mind that in 1970, for example, and avalanches in the Chamonix area took out over 100 people in winter alone.
I'd imagine the French keep pretty close records of such, I just don't have a good source for them.
Exactly. More development = more accessible.
Europe is a different place to climb, to be sure. Partly its appeal is the access and amenities. They've lived in their mountains for many, many years and the mountains are so much more part of the culture.
Er something.
Anyhoo, a bit off the main topic of Via Ferrata.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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06-07-2007, 12:13 PM #20
Once again, we come full cirlcle back to balance.
You're right about VF being high impact, but no more so than a road. I don't think there should be many, but one or two in the state of Utah will not have a major impact on wilderness.
The innexperienced are such because they haven't done this stuff a lot. How do you expect them to become experienced if you don't let them try?
Darwinism will weed out a few. Fear will weed out most. The rest will join us on the forum sooner than later.
Anyway, I hope I don't always come across as a total dick. I just get upset when people put purity of climbing above safety and solitude above enjoyment.
There's a lot of world out there.It's my job to call the BS around here. Get over it.
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