Rock n Ice - 2007 Gear and Safety Guide

[jumar]

Dear fellow climber,

On behalf or Rock and Ice and La Sportiva U.S.A., please accept this complimentary digital issue of the 2007 Gear and Safety Guide. In this issue you'll find Rock and Ice's exclusive report on the dangers that car, drill and headlamp batteries can have on climbing ropes. This story is the first of its kind, and a must read for every climber who ties in. Also included are reports on the pros and cons of different knots and the 10 most common causes of climbing accidents. Of course, the issue is chocked with gear A to Z, with all the stats you need, from rope falls held, to ice tool weights, camming ranges, etc. Now, in living digital color, you can peruse this issue-the first and only one of its kind-at your leisure.

Please click to view the digital edition: http://www.rockandice-digital.com/ro...ce/2007annual/

Climb safe,

[gonzo]

This is really cool - too bad I was nearly three hours late to work today and don't have time to read it all. I'll have to catch it tonight.

[Brian in SLC]

This is really cool - too bad I was nearly three hours late to work today and don't have time to read it all. I'll have to catch it tonight.

Hit the second to last page and look at the description for tying the double bowline.

They show the finish to the knot by tying the back up by bringing the rabbit back out of the hole and tying a finish knot (like a double fisherman's or overhand). If the back up gets loose (which I notice all the time with my tie in knot), the rope could fall back down through the double bowline...and you'd be untied. That...is...scary.

Anyone else see and/or try this?

My opinion is that if you're going to tie in with a double bowline, keep the rabbit in the hole and tie your back up knot below the bowline on the the loop and not pass the rabbit back out of the hole.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC