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12-15-2006, 09:01 AM #1
Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Technical Crap
The Munter Hitch
This is my preferred method of rappelling without a rappel device. The Munter Hitch is reliable, assuming you set it up correctly. All you need is a locking carabiner. Make two bights in the rappel rope, like a clove hitch, and fold one over the other. Clip the loops through the carabiner which is clipped to your harness. This method puts a nasty twist in your rope, but you'll get over it. If you know how to tie a Diaper Sling and rappel on a Munter Hitch you can do some amazing things with very little gear.
The Carbiner Brake
The Carbiner Brake can be done with either six carabiners or one large locking and four regular carabiners (the large locking connecting to your harness). When using two carabiners, ALWAYS reverse the gates. These first two will keep the rope from running against your harness, however they can be eliminated in an emergency if you only have four. Then clip two opposing ovals (or Ds, although ovals are best) to the two on your harness. Put a bight of the double ropes through these two. Clip the last two ovals across these two and under the bights so they rope runs over the backs of the pair.
The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likesharness man liked this post
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12-15-2006 09:01 AM # ADS
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12-15-2006, 09:04 AM #2
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I want to see a photo of you using these...
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12-15-2006, 09:22 AM #3
i wanna see the photos of your twisted ropes afterwards...
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12-15-2006, 10:05 AM #4
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Originally Posted by Iceaxe
"How in the @#$% am I going to explain rope burns on my privates to my wife??"
Last time I ever saw him do the dufler, and enough of a warning to me to never attempt it....
YMMV, but for my money, I'm using a rap device, munter, or carabiner brake....
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12-15-2006, 10:20 AM #5
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Originally Posted by deserthiker
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12-15-2006, 12:05 PM #6
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Originally Posted by Iceaxe
And, its not called, "the dulfer".
It is, the "D
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12-15-2006, 12:13 PM #7
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Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
[quote=Brian in SLC]
Works on any slope, even free hanging.
And, its not called, "the dulfer".
It is, the "D
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12-15-2006, 01:38 PM #8
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Originally Posted by tanya
I'd imagine he tied you a harness from webbing or rope? And lowered you? Maybe a bowline on a coil?
No way he let you rap with a D
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12-15-2006, 01:54 PM #9
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Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Bo called it a Dulfersitz --- so I imagine it was. He is a stickler for exact terminology and stuff..... and yes he belayed me and Joe and everyone else on the trip. Afraid to do this hike.... since it was my first like that --- I snuck down to Paragon Climbing in Veyo and took a one day climbing course from Todd. (Have you seen the new edition of his book! Its great!) That was fun! Much funner after I finally fell and found out it was sure easier than hanging on by my toes and finger tips with everything in me ----- because I was afraid to fall. Then I start talking with Todd and find out that Bo teaches there. I just can't sneak anywhere!
That's the one... I still wonder how a man could do that one. Has to hurt between the legs!
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12-15-2006, 02:08 PM #10
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Originally Posted by tanya
Originally Posted by tanya
Originally Posted by tanya
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/File0246.jpg
From this cool thread posted by Jeff Lowe, on the 'taco:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/th...3017#msg293017
Might beat rappelling in an old Whillans harness, though...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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12-15-2006, 02:15 PM #11
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I think we need some photos of you in the group and on the banner! Climbing ones in particular.
You are on a climbing calendar right? And there is this one photo of you that is hard to forget. Its not a climbing one though.
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12-15-2006, 02:40 PM #12Originally Posted by tanya
Was a thong, actually...
http://www.cafepress.com/buy/mtncomm...__FD___aF/c_0/
-Brian in SLC
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12-15-2006, 02:56 PM #13
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But we can't see you on there!
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12-15-2006, 03:29 PM #14
Here are a couple of other methods of rigging a rappel device from what you might have on hand.
Figures 1 & 2 are a different style of biner brake. I have actually seen this system with a 3rd biner included. I guess you could stack more biners to get whatever friction you like.
Figure 3 is rigged with a piton as Brian mentioned earlier.
Figure 4 is rigged with an ice screw.
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12-15-2006, 07:28 PM #15
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Originally Posted by Brian in SLC
thanks for the link
rob
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02-23-2011, 10:43 AM #16
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I just stumbled upon this photo someone sent me. Probably Bo? Anyway here is the painful Dulfer Ouch! Still remember how much it hurt. Guy's must really hurt using this.
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02-23-2011, 10:58 AM #17-------
Jeff
"Be who you are, say what you feel.
Because those that mind don't matter and,
those that matter don't mind"
~Dr. Suess~
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02-23-2011, 11:04 AM #18
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dulfersitz is what I hear Bo refer to it as and Bo knows.
However this one is on backwards apparently and is why it hurt this trip! I wondered why it hurt so much more than when I did it on Lady Mountain. This is why I always stick by Bo. Someone else put that on me since Bo was above me.
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02-23-2011, 01:00 PM #19
yes in the photo it is backwards. you put the rope between your legs and come around your right thigh from behind and then across your chest and over your left shoulder, then across your back to the right side. your right hand will be the brake hand. now if you are left handed you do the opposite. this is what some call a historical system and is not used very often. it does work though and if you are going to use it you need to know how to do it properly. other wise if it is not correct and the rope just slips off your shoulder you are toast. as said before it is very uncomfortable and is best used on short low angle raps. having a high collar is advised.
But if I agreed with you, we would both be wrong.
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02-23-2011, 01:56 PM #20
Nice bicep/tricep Tanya
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