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Thread: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

  1. #1

    Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
    Technical Crap


    The Munter Hitch
    This is my preferred method of rappelling without a rappel device. The Munter Hitch is reliable, assuming you set it up correctly. All you need is a locking carabiner. Make two bights in the rappel rope, like a clove hitch, and fold one over the other. Clip the loops through the carabiner which is clipped to your harness. This method puts a nasty twist in your rope, but you'll get over it. If you know how to tie a Diaper Sling and rappel on a Munter Hitch you can do some amazing things with very little gear.

    The Carbiner Brake
    The Carbiner Brake can be done with either six carabiners or one large locking and four regular carabiners (the large locking connecting to your harness). When using two carabiners, ALWAYS reverse the gates. These first two will keep the rope from running against your harness, however they can be eliminated in an emergency if you only have four. Then clip two opposing ovals (or Ds, although ovals are best) to the two on your harness. Put a bight of the double ropes through these two. Clip the last two ovals across these two and under the bights so they rope runs over the backs of the pair.

    The "Dulfer"
    The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.

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  4. #2
    Bogley BigShot
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    I want to see a photo of you using these...

  5. #3
    i wanna see the photos of your twisted ropes afterwards...

  6. #4

    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe
    The "Dulfer"
    The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.
    My early climbing mentor once decided to rap down Dulfer style to save some time.. it was low angle enough, but a full 80'... His first words when he got down:

    "How in the @#$% am I going to explain rope burns on my privates to my wife??"



    Last time I ever saw him do the dufler, and enough of a warning to me to never attempt it....

    YMMV, but for my money, I'm using a rap device, munter, or carabiner brake....

  7. #5

    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Quote Originally Posted by deserthiker
    "How in the @#$% am I going to explain rope burns on my privates to my wife??"

  8. #6

    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe
    The "Dulfer"
    The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.
    Works on any slope, even free hanging.

    And, its not called, "the dulfer".

    It is, the "D

  9. #7
    Bogley BigShot
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    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    [quote=Brian in SLC]
    Works on any slope, even free hanging.

    And, its not called, "the dulfer".

    It is, the "D

  10. #8

    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Quote Originally Posted by tanya
    My very very very FIRST hike with Bo .... was Lady Mountain. Joe Braun was with us too. I must have got too comfy on the mountain top and left my harness behind. We get way down to the first rappel and I am without it. Bo ties me up in a Dulfersitz.... I would not have wanted to do a LONG rap in it! It worked just fine for a short one however.
    That somehow doesn't sound right (besides the obvious innuendo!).

    I'd imagine he tied you a harness from webbing or rope? And lowered you? Maybe a bowline on a coil?

    No way he let you rap with a D

  11. #9
    Bogley BigShot
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    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Bo called it a Dulfersitz --- so I imagine it was. He is a stickler for exact terminology and stuff..... and yes he belayed me and Joe and everyone else on the trip. Afraid to do this hike.... since it was my first like that --- I snuck down to Paragon Climbing in Veyo and took a one day climbing course from Todd. (Have you seen the new edition of his book! Its great!) That was fun! Much funner after I finally fell and found out it was sure easier than hanging on by my toes and finger tips with everything in me ----- because I was afraid to fall. Then I start talking with Todd and find out that Bo teaches there. I just can't sneak anywhere!


    That's the one... I still wonder how a man could do that one. Has to hurt between the legs!


  12. #10

    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Quote Originally Posted by tanya
    Bo called it a Dulfersitz so I imagine it was. He is a stickler for exact terminology and stuff..... and yes he belayed me and Joe and everyone else on the trip.
    Well, Bo knows Diddley... Makes sense, though, that he belayed you. Musta tied you straight into the rope? Then you rapped single?

    Quote Originally Posted by tanya
    Todd. (Have you seen the new edition of his book! Its great!)
    Yeah, looks "ok". He seems to always be in a tiff with some of the boys up here in the City of Salt, so, leaves their stuff out of the book for spite, or some such. Too bad, 'cause, would have sold more with some of the new routes and areas in it. As it is, if you have the older guide, not a huge diff.

    Quote Originally Posted by tanya
    That's the one... I still wonder how a man could do that one. Has to hurt between the legs!
    Nah, not if done correctly. Mostly set on the rope down yonder, and, its well placed off to the side. If you look at this pic, you'll see extra padding up by the shoulder. That's where you get the raspberries.

    http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/File0246.jpg

    From this cool thread posted by Jeff Lowe, on the 'taco:

    http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/th...3017#msg293017

    Might beat rappelling in an old Whillans harness, though...

    Cheers,

    -Brian in SLC

  13. #11
    Bogley BigShot
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    I think we need some photos of you in the group and on the banner! Climbing ones in particular.

    You are on a climbing calendar right? And there is this one photo of you that is hard to forget. Its not a climbing one though.

  14. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by tanya
    I think we need some photos of you in the group and on the banner! Climbing ones in particular.

    You are on a climbing calendar right? And there is this one photo of you that is hard to forget. Its not a climbing one though.
    Nah, you don't need any fodder...

    Was a thong, actually...

    http://www.cafepress.com/buy/mtncomm...__FD___aF/c_0/

    -Brian in SLC

  15. #13
    Bogley BigShot
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    But we can't see you on there!

  16. #14
    Here are a couple of other methods of rigging a rappel device from what you might have on hand.

    Figures 1 & 2 are a different style of biner brake. I have actually seen this system with a 3rd biner included. I guess you could stack more biners to get whatever friction you like.

    Figure 3 is rigged with a piton as Brian mentioned earlier.

    Figure 4 is rigged with an ice screw.


    Attached Images Attached Images  

  17. #15

    Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian in SLC

    From this cool thread posted by Jeff Lowe, on the 'taco:

    http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/th...3017#msg293017

    Might beat rappelling in an old Whillans harness, though...

    Cheers,

    -Brian in SLC
    wow . that is a great read, id like to know if that book he is talking about is done.

    thanks for the link

    rob

  18. #16
    Bogley BigShot
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    I just stumbled upon this photo someone sent me. Probably Bo? Anyway here is the painful Dulfer Ouch! Still remember how much it hurt. Guy's must really hurt using this.

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  19. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by tanya View Post
    I just stumbled upon this photo someone sent me. Probably Bo? Anyway here is the painful Dulfer Ouch! Still remember how much it hurt. Guy's must really hurt using this.

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    Yep it hurts! We used it on many of the short drops in the Subway. Never heard of it called Dulfer, we just called it a body rappel. It's definitely a jewel shifter!
    -------
    Jeff

    "Be who you are, say what you feel.
    Because those that mind don't matter and,
    those that matter don't mind"

    ~Dr. Suess~

  20. #18
    Bogley BigShot
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    dulfersitz is what I hear Bo refer to it as and Bo knows.


    However this one is on backwards apparently and is why it hurt this trip! I wondered why it hurt so much more than when I did it on Lady Mountain. This is why I always stick by Bo. Someone else put that on me since Bo was above me.

  21. #19
    yes in the photo it is backwards. you put the rope between your legs and come around your right thigh from behind and then across your chest and over your left shoulder, then across your back to the right side. your right hand will be the brake hand. now if you are left handed you do the opposite. this is what some call a historical system and is not used very often. it does work though and if you are going to use it you need to know how to do it properly. other wise if it is not correct and the rope just slips off your shoulder you are toast. as said before it is very uncomfortable and is best used on short low angle raps. having a high collar is advised.
    But if I agreed with you, we would both be wrong.

  22. #20
    Nice bicep/tricep Tanya

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