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Thread: Will Your Screw Hold?
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12-13-2006, 10:52 AM #1
Will Your Screw Hold?
Let's try this new YouTube button...here's some guys testing whether ice screws will hold a fall.
My friend fell on stairway about 40+ feet on a screw while we were climbing there a few years back. It happened to be a longer screw, so that was good!.
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12-13-2006 10:52 AM # ADS
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12-13-2006, 11:36 AM #2
Re: Will Your Screw Hold?
Originally Posted by jumar
Also, they spelled Sean's name wrong (its Isaac). Nice feller. I have a funny second person story about him I'd relate in person...
My friend fell on stairway about 40+ feet on a screw while we were climbing there a few years back. It happened to be a longer screw, so that was good!.
Not sure how most folks will interpret that testing. Yeah, its good to know that a screw will hold in some ice. But, is it good to know so you can push it? I don't think so. If you climb much ice, and push close to the edge very often, sooner or later you'll end up taking a fall. Most falls on ice result in, at a minimum, injuries.
Testing that Luebben and Harmston did a few years back at Ouray was also interesting. Different configurations, different types of screws, tie offs, etc. Did change the way I protect with screws, to be sure. I used to angle them up, now, usually, straight across and sometimes 10 or less degrees down. And, I almost never tie them off any more.
I've been doing the ice thing for a number of years, and know a bunch of folks who have as well. Thing almost all of us have in common? We've never fallen (knock on wood!). A feller I know was in the hot tub at Ouray, and Donini was pontificating. He mentioned he'd never fallen either. I think for saavy, long term, solid ice climbers, that's pretty common.
Every once in a while I see someone post on the 'net, "I took my first fall on ice today!". Eee ghad. Trouble trouble.
Fear is a good thing. Don't build a house of cards. Don't fall.
-Brian in SLC
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12-13-2006, 11:50 AM #3Naw, that ain't good. Falling is mucho verboten (go with that cross language thing there) on ice. Note that the testing guy never had crampons on. And...was falling on really steep ice.
Thing almost all of us have in common? We've never fallen (knock on wood!).
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12-13-2006, 04:22 PM #4
Seem's to me a test dummy in place of an actual living human would be worth some type of bonus points.
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12-13-2006, 08:26 PM #5Originally Posted by Iceaxe
Any ol' dummy coulda done.
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12-13-2006, 10:18 PM #6
Re: Will Your Screw Hold?
Originally Posted by jumar
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12-14-2006, 09:29 AM #7
Indeed I do
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12-14-2006, 09:59 AM #8
Re: Will Your Screw Hold?
Originally Posted by jumar
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