Sandthrax solo 6/9/06

[Scott Card]

My friend Steven Jackson, Spiderman Steve, just got back from a 4 day trip to Escalante and north Wash area. After having done Neon, Egypt 2 and 3, the group went to the North Wash. After making the trek from Escalante, the group did Foolin' Around. Spiderman Steve was not done though. He has been talking about doing Sandthrax since Freezefest (other group stuff) There is no chest thumping for Steve and it was me who wanted him to tell the tale. This is one of those canyons that he simply had to do. I am not up to his game nor is anyone in my little group. But he was there and he was over come with the taunting of Sandthrax right next to him. He is standing here as I type. Steve arranged to have three of his group be his support team on top with 600 feet of rope just in case. Steve went into the canyon solo with his harness, camel pack, and a 100 foot rope, ascenders and only the memory of the description of the canyon. (Mind you Steve has quite a bit of climing experience and having been with him I can vouch for his skills.) Start time 7:30 p.m. After having done the entrance and the short rap, the game began. Steven stated that the canyon is well deserving of the X rating. The steming was as described and done as fast as he could. Steve said that there were two silos that were protected. A piton (?) in one and a bolt in another silo and one had a regular none locking oval biner left. No need, Steven down climbed about 20 feet to where he felt it wasn't so exposed, then crossed the silos and then motored back up. At the crux, Steve started to do a traditional climb but was too fatigued from the prior days hikes and Foolin' around earlier that same day. Rather than attempt the off witdth crack, he chimneyed the silo next to it and got up high enough to try to stretch to the crack to cross over it. He became to fatigued and went back down to the bottom to rest. After a short rest, a sincere petition to his heavenly support staff (not the rim staff) he went back up the chimney. When he arrived at the spot close enough stretch to the crack, he created an arm bar in the crack but was not getting enough friction to feel secure enough to throw his weight to the crack. So he pulled his pack up to him as he was spread eagle in the silo and tossed it down canyon. On the third try, it stuck and he was able with on arm in the crack pull his weight over to the crack and climb the rest of it. The tricky part was to shift the weight from the silo to the crack the rope gave him the leverage to do so. After the crux the canyon widens out and Steve went to the bottom only to be forced back up for the final stem. Back at camp by 8:45 p.m. Yes there are three witnesses to the amazing descent. I only wish I could have been there to witness it myself. He may not have done it cause I would have told him he was starting too late. Cautious me.

[Iceaxe]

That sound you hear is me clapping.



nice job.

I once considered attempting to cross the crux silo up high but the penalty points are very high.

[nat]

Wow, great job! A very interesting way of passing the crux. When I did it, I didn't notice that the silo immediately before the offwith was narrow enough to stem. So I guess the pack was tossed in and wedged just above the where the offwith widened?

[Scott Card]

When I did it, I didn't notice that the silo immediately before the offwith was narrow enough to stem. So I guess the pack was tossed in and wedged just above the where the offwith widened?

He said that he had one foot on one wall above waist high and his opposite arm in the crack with other foot almost doing the splits. He is very strong and flexible. He admitted the penalty points were very high that is why he went back down and rested when his leg started to shake. As far as the pack toss, it sounded like he threw it down canyon and it wedged in about horizontal to him so he could pull himself to the crack. I really need him sign up on this site and describe it to you. I am not a climber and I am sure he has all kinds of names for these moves. I was simply amazed when he told me. Again, he is pretty humble, but this was really eating at him to do since he heard about it than saw it last December. It was just something he had to do.

[Iceaxe]

If any of you want to know what a spiderman looks like I just happen to have a picture....

[stefan]

Holy $#!T!!

is that all the blood rushing into his head?!?!

[Iceaxe]

I just read this again..... and you are telling us Steve did the canyon in 1:15?!?!?

Trailhead to trailhead? Top to bottom? or?

Also, I was giving it some though and a teather ball might make a nice tossing object to wedge the crux.

I know where the piton came from, it was placed in one of our orginal bolt holes. But I'm wonder where the bolt came from..... I would like to see it removed. This canyon could easily be tamed down with a couple of bolt ladders, but it would be nice to see it stay natural and used as a test piece. At least for the near future.

What happened to The Squeeze is really sad. Once it was a test piece and now its now a no brainer. I hear it took one week for the orginal group to descend The Squeeze and they used only natural anchors.

[Scott Card]

[quote="Iceaxe"]I just read this again..... and you are telling us Steve did the canyon in 1:15?!?!?

Trailhead to trailhead? Top to bottom? or?

Also, I was giving it some though and a teather ball might make a nice tossing object to wedge the crux.

quote]

I have cross examined him several times and it was 1:15 to 1:30 campground to campground. He was racing the sun. I am telling you, Steve is an animal.

As far as a toss object, I drilled a soft ball and threaded a rope through it but never had the occasion to use it. What about that?

[stefan]

I just read this again..... and you are telling us Steve did the canyon in 1:15?!?!?

I have cross examined him several times and it was 1:15 to 1:30 campground to campground. He was racing the sun. I am telling you, Steve is an animal.

definitely impressive time. but i suppose that time isn't nearly as interesting (when you're racing & solo) as the the lack of aid ... save, of course, that trusty pack.

[Scott Card]

Cut and pasted from the other site, the words of the man himself as to the crux, bolt and time.

"Hey everybody this is Steven Jackson. As to the placement of the bolt
it was down canyon from the piton. I don't recall exactly where as
you can imagine I was moving very fast. I just remember seeing it and
moving on. As for the crux yes I chimneyed up the silo immediatly in
front of the off=width. Yes it is a stretch you'd better be tall and
or flexible. I chimneyed about 20 feet up from the ledge you can
stand on with those two nasty looking (If you fell) sideways type
monoliths. I then pulled my pack up as it was down on the ledge tied
to me by my rope and tossed it down canyon horizontal to me the first
two times it did'nt wedge so i climbed down and rested Prayed and went
back up that time it stuck and with an arm bar I was able to shift my
weight over onto my right foot which was wedged in the crack. Then
stem up and over to my pack retrieve it and continue. Yes a teather
ball or volleyball in a pack would work well I think. They might be
to uniform in shape to lodge well I don't know. Also anyone who's
wondering yes the time was 1:15 maybe as much as 1:30 truck to truck I
checked my clock when I got to my truck to get my gear 7:16 p.m. I
assumed it took me about ten minutes to change my shoes and gather
gear. Time back at the truck was 8:45 straight up. One of my support
crew said I popped out of the canyon just before 8:40. As Scott had
mentioned I was'nt going to post I did'nt want to sound boastful so I
hope I don't. If anyone has any questions or comments feel free. I
really hope to solo some more of this type of difficult and dangerous
canyon. Your friendly nieghborhood Spiderman (That's not to cleachey
is it) "