Delicate Arch is climbed

[Iceaxe]

Delicate Arch climb has park chief red in the face
By Lisa J. Church -Salt Lake Tribune

MOAB - For almost 12 years, Dean Potter studied the tiny cracks and crevices in Delicate Arch, searching out potential fingerholds and footholds that could aid his ascent of Utah's most famous icon.

On Sunday morning, Potter, a professional climber known for his speed and agility, put that research to the test, successfully scaling the 45-foot monument "free solo" - without the aid of ropes and other climbing gear. But the 34-year-old part-time Moab resident's achievement doesn't sit well with National Park Service officials and some fellow climbing enthusiasts.

"I'm very sorry to see someone do this to Utah's most visible icon," said the park's superintendent, Laura Joss. "I would just ask if they think it's a good idea to encourage this."

Potter believed that as long as he used no fixed anchors and did not damage the rock, he was free to climb Delicate Arch.

Not so, says Joss.

It was an idea that Potter, a climbing ambassador for outdoor-gear company Patagonia, could not get out of his head.

"For the past four years or so, I've been going up there kind of obsessively and looking at it in every possible light," Potter said Tuesday. "When I realized I was going to try this, I started going out to it more and more frequently."

Feeling his way along the rock face early Sunday morning, Potter inched his way to the top of Delicate Arch, stood on the flat, wide shelf and looked out over the Moab Valley.

"This was one of the most beautiful climbs I've ever done," Potter said. "For me, it was just an overwhelming experience, as if the formation was vibrating with energy."

Once atop the arch, Potter lowered a string to retrieve a climbing rope to make his descent. He says he climbed Delicate Arch "several times in a two-hour period." Even one time is too many, Joss said.

"The intent of our [regulations] is that all named arches are closed to climbing," Joss said. "If the compendium is found not to be sufficient, we will work with our solicitor posthaste to put a closure on Delicate Arch immediately."

Arches allows climbing in some areas, and Joss said that in the past climbers have respected the rules, which include prohibitions on climbing the park's most famous rock formations.

Matt Moore, owner of Desert Highlights, a climbing outfitter in Moab, said he has always understood that park regulations prohibit climbing on Delicate Arch.

"Probably every climber looks at it and thinks it would be great to climb Delicate Arch," Moore said. "On the one hand, it was probably a great ascent for Dean, but at the same time, I can't condone it because it is against park regulations."

Patagonia's publicity department initially alerted the media to Potter's ascent, but indicated it may back off on further promotions after learning that Potter may have broken park service regulations.

His Delicate Arch ascent marks the second time in as many years that Potter has come to the attention of Arches officials. The park recently changed its regulations to prohibit "slacklining" - a sport in which flexible nylon rope is stretched between two points, often over a steep fissure, and walked like a tightrope - after Potter slacklined the Three Gossips, another well-known rock formation in the park, Joss said.

Potter said he took great care to leave Delicate Arch undisturbed, and he is unapologetic about undertaking the challenge.

"I am very conscientious about following nature's rules. I respected the arch to the fullest. I did no more than blow a little dust off a few handholds," Potter said. "What has our world come to if we cannot join nature by climbing one of nature's most beautiful features?"

[Sombeech]

I'm undecided on which side I support in this argument.

It's good that it was a freeclimb, and minimal (if none) harm was done to the structure -- but it may encourage other climbers.

[Iceaxe]

I think it was really bad form. Delicate Arch would be near at the top of every climbers list if it was legal. This was nothing more then a chest thumping stunt.

Arch Bagging (climbing arches) has been around for a long time but it has always been understood that Delicate Arch was off limits. This is one of those deals where someone broke the unwritten code..... And as any canyoneer knows, pulling your rappel ropes would result in rope grooves to the arch. So his "I just blew dust off" is pure bullshit.....

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[Sombeech]

This is true. He checked it out for 4 years, and he knew it was illegal, or else he would be publicly announcing that he was going to do it.

[Iceaxe]

Worst of all.... I bet this costs all of us who play in the park..... Rules will now be tightened, new regulations published, existing rules more tightly enforced......

Arch bagging has been around as an underground sub-culture for a long time. But it has always been understood that Delicate Arch was off limits.

Don't be surprised if this gives the park the ammunition it needs to close the Fiery Furnace to all but ranger guided tours.

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[PunchKing]

Worst of all.... I bet this costs all of us who play in the park..... Rules will now be tightened, new regulations published, existing rules more tightly enforced......

Arch bagging has been around as an underground sub-culture for a long time. But it has always been understood that Delicate Arch was off limits.

Don't be surprised if this gives the park the ammunition it needs to close the Fiery Furnace to all but ranger guided tours.

.

Look at the bright side our good friend Dean got some sweet video footage and we will all be able to not only pay some outrageous fee for the video but we may never have to worry about having to climb that pretty arch or any of the rocks in national state parks.

Thanks Dean Pooper

[Iceaxe]

I think this is going to cost Dean dearly..... Lots of folks are already calling for Patagonia to drop him as a sponsored climber. Poor old Dean might have to actually get a real job.

You want fries with that burger

[Iceaxe]

Gerry Roach pretty much set the tone and rules that the sub-culture of Arch Baggers live by in 1982 with his book "Arch Bagger - A Scramblers Guide to Arches National Park".

Here was what Roach had to say about Delicate Arch..... "Delicate Arch has enough power that it is sufficient to simply view. Don't get greedy."

.

[tatwood]

"Delicate Arch has enough power that it is sufficient to simply view. Don't get greedy."

Great quote Ice. Well said.

My opinion is that rules are rules. Whether their right or not is not really the point. They should be respected regardless. It just doesn't set a good example for everybody else. I'd really hate to see some less experienced punk try the same stunt and either get himself killed, or worse, do some permanent damage to such a beautiful and irreplaceable piece of nature.

[Iceaxe]

Below are the rules Roach listed to be a successful arch bagger.

Wear rock colored clothes.

When visible stay low.

When viable be quick.

Don't flash climbing equipment in the parking lots or on the trail.

Don't wear climbing clothes.

Look like a tourist.

When operating in the Fiery Furnace learn when the ranger tours will appear and avoid them.

Climb during the off seasons.

Climb early or late in the day.

Be quiet.

Don't brag about your exploits.

Sleep outside the park.

Be cool when the shouting starts.

Act stupid.

Act innocent.

When you are going to be a criminal you better start acting like one.

Dean was not the first to climb Delicate Arch, he was just the first who was dumb enough to get caught.

[Iceaxe]

Park tweaks rules after Delicate Arch climb
Old rule 'not worded well': Athlete won't face any backlash but should be last to scale famous feature
By Lisa J. Church
Special to The Tribune

MOAB - Rock climber and "slackliner" Dean Potter may have had his moment high atop famed Delicate Arch. But the National Park Service says no one better do it again.

Officials at Arches National Park on Tuesday issued a statement reinforcing the park's long-standing rock-climbing ban on all named arches after Potter announced that he had successfully "free climbed" the nearly 50-foot-high southeast Utah icon using no protective equipment.

Arches acting Chief Ranger Karen McKinlay-Jones believes Potter's actions on Sunday violated the intent of park regulations but said the park's solicitor advised that Potter cannot be prosecuted because the regulation "was not worded well."

"It was always our intent that all named arches . . . are closed to climbing," said. "That was clearly understood by the climbing community in Moab as well as by climbers who come here from other places."

The park's newly worded climbing ban, which went into effect Tuesday, leaves no room for doubt:

"All rock climbing or similar activities on any arch or natural bridge named on the United States Geological Survey 7.5 minute topographical maps covering Arches National Park are prohibited."

The park also has banned "slacklining" - defined as walking on flat nylon webbing or rope anchored between rock formations, trees or any other natural features.

Earlier this year, Potter participated in slacklining at the Three Gossips, another well-known Arches rock formation, park officials said. The feat highlighted the fact that the practice was not addressed in existing regulations.

Potter was unrepentant Tuesday, saying he is "not sorry for my actions at all."

He said he did not read the regulations before Sunday's climb but did ask several rangers about the park's regulations. He said now that the wording has been changed, he will follow the rules.

"I didn't want to break the law, and I didn't break the law," he said. "The suggestion that I did something illegal causes harm to me and my reputation. I'd be surprised if anybody would find anything wrong if the story had just been 'man climbs rock,' or 'man communes with nature.' "

News of Potter's ascent also caused headaches for outdoor-clothing and gear manufacturer Patagonia, where Potter serves as a "climbing ambassador."

A member of Patagonia's marketing staff had alerted the news media about the successful climb Monday. When the story appeared Tuesday, customers contacted the company to complain about Patagonia's perceived role.

Spokeswoman Jen Rapp said via e-mail Tuesday that the company "was unaware of the legality issues surrounding the climb" when the media contacts were made.

"As a policy, Patagonia neither endorses nor condemns our [ambassadors'] individual activities. We trust that our athletes are the best judge of their own actions, and rely on them to act with care for themselves and the natural environment," she said, emphasizing that "Patagonia had no prior knowledge of Dean's intent or plans to climb Delicate Arch.

"We are currently looking into the situation and working with Dean to make sure we come to a reasonable resolution."

Redefined Park Rules:

"Effective May 9, 2006, under the authority of Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), Part 1, Section 1.5(a)(1), all rock climbing or similar activities on any arch or natural bridge named on the United States Geological Survey 7.5 minute topographical maps covering Arches National Park are prohibited.

"In addition, 'slacklining' in Arches National Park is prohibited. Slacklining is defined as walking on a rope or other line that is anchored between rock formations, trees, or any other natural features. Height of the rope above the ground is immaterial.

"These closures are based upon a determination that such action is necessary for the maintenance of public health and safety, protection of environmental or scenic values, protection of natural resources and avoidance of conflict among visitor use activities."

[moabfool]

Don't be surprised if this gives the park the ammunition it needs to close the Fiery Furnace to all but ranger guided tours.

I'm sure the Park sees this for what it is, a very isolated incident. I doubt they'll close the Fiery Furnace because of this (it will be stored as ammunition for the next round of regulations), but if they do my long-held belief will be proven yet again. "All it takes is one idiot."

How could this guy possibly not have known that what he was doing was illegal? If it was legal to climb Delicate Arch I can promise you that this would not be the singular feat he believes it is. There would be a line at the base 24/7 and probably a Zion-esque permit system. I know he's unrepentant now. I can only hope that the full ramifications (stupidity) of his selfishness start to weigh on him before he does something this dumb again.

The story says he rappelled from the arch. What did he use for an anchor? There was only one of him so he couldn't have done a tandem rap. I really hope there was a nub of rock on the "summit (?)" where he was able to rig a retrievable anchor. Can you say "holy crap" if he placed a bolt or two (seriously doubt he did). I know it's been said, but there's no way he didn't leave a groove when he pulled his rope.

[Iceaxe]

If you really want to put pressure on the guy for pulling a dumbass stunt write his sponsor and tell them how disappointed you are.

http://www.patagonia.com/custserv/co...tml?src=botnav

Dean is paid to climb, he is a local, he knew the rules. It's not the first time he has done something like this.

[Scott P]

The story says he rappelled from the arch. What did he use for an anchor?

Probably the arch itself. Simple trick.

[Iceaxe]

The story says he rappelled from the arch. What did he use for an anchor?

My understanding is several folks were around. He brought his own photog and video taping crew.... probably just dropped the rope over the arch and had one of his helpers tie in for an anchor.

I'm also guessing that pulling the rope might have scared the arch with rope grooves.

[rock_ski_cowboy]

I know it's been said, but there's no way he didn't leave a groove when he pulled his rope.

Unless he didn't pull his rope. Don't know what he did, but its possible that he set his rope such that after rappelling off carefully (tied off on the other side to someone), with a few huge shakes/waves up the rope, he coule flip it off one end of the arch or the other. Thus not having to pull or leave any sort of groove/rope mark.

Another feasible set up for not leaving any mark would be to anchor with the pull cord (the article mentions him taking one up with him) doubled through a ring or rapide that the rope (going over the other side of arch) is either tied to or doubled through, just off the pullcord side edge. Have the anchor person tie into both ends of the pull cord. He raps off the rope side. Once the rappel is completed, the pull cord is pulled. Since the ring is over the edge, no groovies. Once the pull cord is out, the weight of the rope would inevitably cause it to fall off the other side of the arch. Although there would be a little contact/friction across the top of the arch, it wouldn't be along any single line and no grooves would occur. If the rope didn't fall initially, a shake or tug would surely do the trick.

A little elaborate, hope that made sense.

Food for thought if you're ever rappelling an arch or fin and don't want to leave a groove.


Not that I approve of his actions or anything...

[Iceaxe]

Delicate Arch stunt will limit access for all climbers
Paul M. Jakus

A couple of years back the Outdoor Retailers Show threatened to leave Utah due to the state's perceived lack of support for the non-motorized recreation community. The retailers argued the state gave too much "weight" to motorized recreation in public lands management, an argument partially rooted in the belief that the motorized folks flouted regulations designed to limit user conflicts and damage to public lands.

Now we have Dean Potter, a non-motorized user of public lands, who decided to climb Delicate Arch in clear violation of the climbing regulations of Arches National Park. Yes, one of their own decided to violate the rules.

Or, should I say, "one of our own," for I am a climber of more than 30 years, and I am outraged by the indefensible actions of Mr. Potter.

Potter's statement that climbing Delicate Arch was not illegal is self-serving and disingenuous at best, and an outright lie at worst. Every climber understands that access to climbing resources on public land is governed by a climbing management plan. Prior to his climb the Arches National Park Web site specifically stated that all named arches on 7.5 minute USGS maps were off-limits to climbing.

In fact, all the climbing management plans in areas with such features have a similar statement.

Mr. Potter's actions demonstrate a blatant disregard for our sport's history. I remember the days when the number of climbers and the damage we caused was small. But the rapid growth of our community over the past three or four decades meant that we could no longer ignore the damage we caused ourselves and others.

In the 1970s climbers engaged in self-regulation as we moved from exclusive use of rock-scarring pitons to so-called "clean-climbing" techniques. With the advent of climbing management plans in the late 1980s and early 1990s, climbers banded together in regional and national organizations to negotiate with land managers about access issues. Such plans always designate the formations on which climbing is prohibited.

Over the past two decades we climbers have become acutely aware that the actions of one person could affect access for the community as a whole.

But along with the growth our sport came the opportunity to move up the social ladder from "dirtbag climber" to "professional climber." Mr. Potter is a professional climber paid in cash and kind by numerous outdoor equipment companies to have his exploits and photographs - sponsor's logo prominently displayed - published in outdoor magazines. Indeed, the announcement of Mr. Potter's ascent of Delicate Arch came from his sponsor, Patagonia. To maintain sponsorship, a professional climber must stay in the public eye, something for which Mr. Potter is apparently richly gifted.

About a month ago Mr. Potter's "slackline" stunt on The Three Gossips (similar to a tight-rope walk between rock spires) caught the eye of climbers and the National Park Service. Less than a week later, all slacklining in Arches was banned. And now Mr. Potter has climbed Delicate Arch, apparently hoping to profit from an action that puts climbing access to Arches at risk to all climbers.

Let's face it: The easiest management policy is an absolute ban on all climbing. Such a policy would be so simple that even Dean Potter could understand it, yet would punish the rest of us.

All of which brings us back to the Outdoor Retailers Show. The companies that participate in this trade show must band together on behalf of all climbers and condemn the actions of Mr. Potter and the complicity of Patagonia. His actions are clearly motivated by sponsorship, and his sponsors should show respect for other climbers by immediately terminating their relationship with Potter.

Only if we, as a community of climbers and equipment manufacturers, assure land managers that we can engage in self-regulation and self-censure will these same managers allow us access for enjoyment by all.
---
Paul M. Jakus is a professor in the Department of Economics at Utah State University.

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[mra243]

An email I received from Patagonia in response to an email I sent them:

Hello,

Thank you for writing us with your concerns. Patagonia ambassador Dean
Potter's May 7 free solo of Delicate Arch has generated significant
controversy about the legality and appropriateness of the climb of what has
been described as a national icon. We'll be interested to follow the
controversy and to listen to views of those on both sides.

A few facts are in order. First, no crime has been committed. The National
Park Service has conceded that its regulations were ambiguous and that they
will not cite Dean for the ascent. They have said they will seek to clarify
their regulations to prevent a second try. The Park and a number of opinion
leaders have argued that Delicate Arch is an icon that should not be
climbed.

It is important to note that Dean did no harm to the route or to the rock.
He free-soloed the arch, placing no anchors and creating no impact beyond
blowing dust off the holds. As he says, "No one reveres rocks more than me.
I consider all rocks sacred, as do most climbers."

Dean, like all Patagonia ambassadors, undertakes his own climbs on his own
terms. He told us about the climb afterward.

We have taken positions in the past on a number of issues of climbing
ethics, including bolting. We take no position on this one. As Casey
Sheahan, our CEO, notes, "From the early days in the Tetons to the
rebelliousness of Yosemite's Camp 4, every generation of climbers has had
its run-ins with government regulations that attempt to restrict climber's
freedom of expression. At Patagonia we don't control the ways our sponsored
athletes conduct themselves except to encourage respect for the environment
and uncommon approaches to every challenge. Dean is at the pinnacle of free
solo climbing, makes decisions for himself, and has our complete support."

Again, we thank you for your time and your opinion.

Patagonia

[moabfool]

An email I received from Patagonia in response to an email I sent them:

(Body of letter removed. See above.)

That has got to be some of the finest corporate double speak I've ever heard. One of the greatest non-appologies of all time. They might as well have said "We seriously doubt this will effect our bottom line, and Dean Potter has made us a truck load of money in the past, so he can do whatever he wants with our blessing."

I'd say that I plan to boycott Patigonia, but I've never bought any of their products, so the point is moot. I certainly will think of other manufacturers first when making equipment decisions.

[Iceaxe]

An email I received from Patagonia in response to an email I sent them:

Hey, that is the exact same letter I received. And here I thought I was special

Guess I won't be buying anymore of Patagonia's over-priced clothing

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