Zion Canyoneering History

[Iceaxe]

Anyone interested in a little history on the Zion Heavy hitters? Anyone interested in who placed the first bolts? Or who had the skill and courage to put in some of the most famous canyoneering routes in North America?

Mike Bogart, Dennis Turville and Mary Dern have the first documented descent of Imlay. They called it Trolls Treat. They did the canyon in 28 rappels and placed 13 bolts sttarting from Patato Hollow. June 7, 1978.

Mike Bogart, Dennis Turville, Mary Dern and Jan Hansen. Have the first documented descent of the technical section of Kolob. September 1978.

Mike Bogart, Dennis Turville have the first documented descent of Heaps. The waterfall exit is exactly 440' high and I know this because the first documented descent followed the watercourse and not the now standard "bird perch" route. September 23, 24, 25 1981

And at the time, canyoneering was referred to as "Gorging" to Mike Bogart, Dennis Turville, Mary Dern and Jan Hansen.... as in descending a deep gorge.

[rockgremlin]

Are they still alive? Still active in the sport?

[shaggy125]

Very interesting stuff. For those interested I found the story off of Tom's site that tells of the Devils Pit. The story is taken from Zion's black book and was written by Royce Trapier, his partner was Norman Harding. They claim in the story that this was the first successful descent ever made of the bottom of the canyon. Did Mike Bogart and Dennis Turville possibly skip part of the canyon? Or were these guys just not aware that they had done the canyon the year before? They mention that they added a bolt to the two existing at the Birds Perch (there are 4 bolts there today) so obviously someone had at least done the rappel before.

Anyway, for anyone who hasn't read the story already it's pretty interesting. Just a note, they are descending the canyon via what we now refer to as the Gunsight Entrance or North Fork of Heaps. There is less water and serious stuff before the crossroads when doing it from here rather than from Phantom Valley, which is the standard way of doing it today.

http://canyoneeringusa.com/history/heaps82.htm

More interesting history about Zion Canyoneering.

http://canyoneeringusa.com/history/index.htm

Eric.

[Iceaxe]

Dennis Turville is now a professional photographer. He has posters and photgraphs hanging in the new Zion Visitor's Center. He lives in Toquerville last I heard. I know a couple of fellas from Utah did Kolob with him a while back. Dennis and Steve Allen were the "experts" called in to testify for the NPS when the scouts got whacked in Kolob. (Lloyd Bush who was teaching a canyoneering class at the U of U at the time was the "expert" for the families).

Mike Bogart lives in SLC and retired from canyoneering in the late 80's.

The others mentioned were friends and I don't have any info on them.

Yeah, I never understood Royce's first descent claim of Heaps which is what lead me to do a little more investigating. The first group did the entire canyon. Heck, his own TR mentions existing bolts for most the canyon, including the finish. Also.... by strict definition Royce never completed the entire route because he climbed out at the "Devil Pit" and entered further downstream.

I'm not here to argue first descents.... just posting dates I know are fact.



.

[rockgremlin]

How do you "retire" from canyoneering? I assume he enjoyed it?

Sounds kinda weird to retire from a recreational activity that you enjoy.

[Iceaxe]

How do you "retire" from canyoneering? I assume he enjoyed it?

I think its something you will understand better when you get older.... but....

You get married, have a family, pursue other interests, don't do canyons anymore.....

I've corresponded a little with Mike and he is a nice enough guy but he doesn't seem to have any interest in canyoneering anymore.

Dennis and Mike also did some of the first documented descents in Escalante. I'll see what else I can dig up and share with you guys.


.

[Iceaxe]

Here are a few more details I know..... Turville and Bogart did a full Right Fork of the Great West in Zion in 1977. It was not a first descent as beta was given to them. I have no clue who gave them the beta or when it was first descended completely.

What we now call the Imlay Crossroads was referred to as "Quadruple Junction" by the pioneers.

I wish more of the history of the canyoneering pioneers was available. It's a shame that most of it is disappearing with time. Heaps was near the end of Bogart's career. He did only four more first descents after completing Heaps.

[j_trapier_w]

I believe that my Grandpa Trapier was the first to successfully complete a descent through Heaps.

[ratagonia]

Here are a few more details I know..... Turville and Bogart did a full Right Fork of the Great West in Zion in 1977. It was not a first descent as beta was given to them. I have no clue who gave them the beta or when it was first descended completely.

You're just not trying hard enough, Shane.

June 26 - July 2, 1966. Victor Schmidt and party. They did, however, avoid the 'direct' section, establishing the 'silver staircase' work around.

http://canyoneeringusa.com/history/right66a.htm

Placed in the Black Book, so there is a good chance Turville and Bogart got it from the Park.

Tom

[ratagonia]

I believe that my Grandpa Trapier was the first to successfully complete a descent through Heaps.

Welcome to the group, "J".

I admire the work of Royce, and sometimes feel like I am tracking his adventures, finding those bolt hangers marked "RT" in various obscure corners of Zion.

I think Royce claimed the first "complete descent on the canyon floor", as the previous descent by Turville and Bogart had shuffled along a ledge for 50 feet. My impression is Turville and Trapier were rivals, and none too friendly. Hard to say which first descent "counts" the most, but as much as I have a distant affection for Royce, I think I lean towards Turville on this one.

ps, if there is presentable historic material available, I and we would be delighted to see it. Contact Shane = Ice if you live up north, or me if you live down south (me = CanyoneeringUSA at gmail dot com).

Tom

[Bo_Beck]

You're just not trying hard enough, Shane.

June 26 - July 2, 1966. Victor Schmidt and party. They did, however, avoid the 'direct' section, establishing the 'silver staircase' work around.

http://canyoneeringusa.com/history/right66a.htm

Placed in the Black Book, so there is a good chance Turville and Bogart got it from the Park.

Tom

Really Cool! Thanks Tom for the great research!

[Don]

My impression is Turville and Trapier were rivals, and none too friendly.
Tom

Sounds familiar somehow.


Keep it coming guys. I love this stuff!

[Bo_Beck]

I believe that my Grandpa Trapier was the first to successfully complete a descent through Heaps.

Welcome to the group, "J".

I admire the work of Royce, and sometimes feel like I am tracking his adventures, finding those bolt hangers marked "RT" in various obscure corners of Zion.

I think Royce claimed the first "complete descent on the canyon floor", as the previous descent by Turville and Bogart had shuffled along a ledge for 50 feet. My impression is Turville and Trapier were rivals, and none too friendly. Hard to say which first descent "counts" the most, but as much as I have a distant affection for Royce, I think I lean towards Turville on this one.

ps, if there is presentable historic material available, I and we would be delighted to see it. Contact Shane = Ice if you live up north, or me if you live down south (me = CanyoneeringUSA at gmail dot com).

Tom

My understanding is that Royce had an unsuccessful first attempt in Heaps and was eventually rescued, and having to leave gear behind hesitantly. With desire to retrieve gear and complete what he had started, made another sucessful attempt soon after. (I have a friend that was on the rescue of Royce on his first attempt). Royces account of Heaps was my reason for my first trip and many successive trips. He had good taste for the great canyons of Zion!

[oldno7]

Tom
The trip through Great West had many references to photo's, is there any record of those photo's?

[ratagonia]

Tom
The trip through Great West had many references to photo's, is there any record of those photo's?

Those photos were not in the Black Book when I got to it. They might be at the museum - I'll try to remember to ask if I am there this week. Yes, might be interesting to see them.

Tom

[j_trapier_w]

Again, I am Royce Trapiers grandson. While I do know quite a bit about him, there is still some that is mystery to me. I only met him a few times before his death in the late 90's, but I have had a small obsession about the things that he did in his lifetime. At 16 years old, I was months shy of traveling out to Springdale, UT to climb with him when he died. Among climbing, which was his life's passion, he was an amazing architect and built some of the most beautiful houses I've ever seen in my life. I would ask, if anyone has any more info on Royce, that you could get it to me. Royce kept most of his life private, even from his own family. My aunt Tami, Royce's closest daughter, doesn't even have some of the info on him that I've been able to find over the years. She does however, have all of his old climbing gear, pictures, diaries and such from over the years. If anyone has anything, it would be greatly appreciated!!!

[j_trapier_w]

I believe that my Grandpa Trapier was the first to successfully complete a descent through Heaps.

Welcome to the group, "J".

I admire the work of Royce, and sometimes feel like I am tracking his adventures, finding those bolt hangers marked "RT" in various obscure corners of Zion.

I think Royce claimed the first "complete descent on the canyon floor", as the previous descent by Turville and Bogart had shuffled along a ledge for 50 feet. My impression is Turville and Trapier were rivals, and none too friendly. Hard to say which first descent "counts" the most, but as much as I have a distant affection for Royce, I think I lean towards Turville on this one.

ps, if there is presentable historic material available, I and we would be delighted to see it. Contact Shane = Ice if you live up north, or me if you live down south (me = CanyoneeringUSA at gmail dot com).

Tom

My understanding is that Royce had an unsuccessful first attempt in Heaps and was eventually rescued, and having to leave gear behind hesitantly. With desire to retrieve gear and complete what he had started, made another sucessful attempt soon after. (I have a friend that was on the rescue of Royce on his first attempt). Royces account of Heaps was my reason for my first trip and many successive trips. He had good taste for the great canyons of Zion!

Royce did make an unsuccessful first attempt and returned to make a successful attempt. I have actually seen the pictures of his final descent out of the canyon. They are amazing pictures!!!

[Don]

Again, I am Royce Trapiers grandson. While I do know quite a bit about him, there is still some that is mystery to me. I only met him a few times before his death in the late 90's, but I have had a small obsession about the things that he did in his lifetime. At 16 years old, I was months shy of traveling out to Springdale, UT to climb with him when he died. Among climbing, which was his life's passion, he was an amazing architect and built some of the most beautiful houses I've ever seen in my life. I would ask, if anyone has any more info on Royce, that you could get it to me. Royce kept most of his life private, even from his own family. My aunt Tami, Royce's closest daughter, doesn't even have some of the info on him that I've been able to find over the years. She does however, have all of his old climbing gear, pictures, diaries and such from over the years. If anyone has anything, it would be greatly appreciated!!!

I'm a history major in school right now and a fan of Utah history in particular, while this isn't very old history we're talking about it is still the exploration of previously unexplored areas and I find that pretty amazing, of course I find it even more so because I enjoy canyoneering too.
I would love to see any old photos, especially if any exist of these early explorers actually in canyons or climbing.
Trapier, while I would be interested in seeing your grandpa's old climbing gear, just out of curiosity, you should really look into the pictures and journals. I imagine amazing stories of first descents and maybe some treasure of a photo that should be displayed at the visitors center at Zion...

[Don]

Royce did make an unsuccessful first attempt and returned to make a successful attempt. I have actually seen the pictures of his final descent out of the canyon. They are amazing pictures!!!

Any chance you could scan and post? I would love to see these!

[stefan]

If anyone has anything, it would be greatly appreciated!!!

here's your grandfather's report in the zion black book, courtesy of tom jones

http://canyoneeringusa.com/history/heaps82.htm



here is some history/information provided by dennis turville regarding his descent of heaps (with mike bogart) and your grandfather's descent (second entry on the page)

http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/ca...le/?i=turville



oh ... and welcome to bogley