La Sportiva - Exum River

[shaggy125]

I just got hooked up with a free pair of the exhum rivers (I know you are all extremely jealous). I'll be testing them out tomorrow. They fit much more snug on me than my canyoneers, but seem really comfortable. I'll be writing an in depth review for backcountry.com (where they got the idea that I'm some expert or something, I'll never understand... but I'm not going to tell them otherwise when they are hooking me up with free gear ). I'll of course post my review on here when it's done.

Eric.

[Iceaxe]

La Sportiva Exum River

Since I have been evaluating canyoneering shoes lately I thought I would update the La Sportiva Exum Rivers which have now been out for over a year.

The shoe has gained some popularity in the canyoneering community but it does have a couple of weaknesses that are showing up after long term use. Most of the weaknesses were predicted the minute the shoe hit the market.

The mess sides do not hold up in difficult canyons. A little time spent in any mae west type canyon requiring foot jamming will result in holes in the mess sides.

Same thing for the cute little strappy type thing. A difficult canyon will destroy the strap in short order.

The shoe also suffers a significant loss in traction when the temperatures drop below freezing, more so then most out shoes I've experienced.

I would be interested in hearing other opinions on the long term service of this shoe. Have others experianced the same results?

[CarpeyBiggs]

Hey, that's my foot...

I like 'em, and the uppers haven't worn nearly as quick as the soles (good sign). I think mine have lost some stick just because they are bald on the bottom now. The holes on the side are no big deal, because the molded rubber is what provides all the stability. I don't like the shoelace eyelets though. Poor design.

BTW, I think Bo has these on sale right now, for under 50 bucks...

[Stick]

I have a pair of exum rivers. The strap came off the first time I wore them through alcatraz, and I have a few holes in the mesh. I don't think the holes a much of an issue and I think they are much more comfortable than the canyoneers. They did not stick quite as well as the canyoneers when they were new, and have lost quite a bit of traction since I first got them last summer.

I will keep using these until they wear out completely but I think I will try something else instead of getting another pair, probably the canyoneer 2 or those OTB shoes.

[Iceaxe]

I regards to shoes losing their stickiness..... I think storing the shoes in a cool environment helps maintain the stick. I had some shoes I was storing in the garage where temps easily get over 100 degrees on hot days and they seemed to lose some stick. I think putting the rubber through a large number of big heat cycles damages the rubber to a small extent. I have nothing to back this up other then a gut feeling.... and the knowledge that heat cycles change the way tires preform on a race car.

[supercj]

Outdoor Outlet has them for $44.97. Half price. I picked them up a week ago to go through Das Boot and I liked them. I haven't really got anything to compare them to since the only other thing I have used are Merrel trail running shoes, but they were nice. The strap seems useless, I just use it to hold the laces down and to keep them tied. They did get some sand and a few rocks in them which was annoying, but I only slipped once in them, but I was just trying to imitate Shane since he slipped in the exact place just in front of me. They should make the foot opening a little tighter or maybe with an elastic materials around it so it closes better around the ankle to keep dirt and rocks out. I think I have seen that on some of those Nike ACG's.

[Brian in SLC]

I regards to shoes losing their stickiness..... I think storing the shoes in a cool environment helps maintain the stick. I had some shoes I was storing in the garage where temps easily get over 100 degrees on hot days and they seemed to lose some stick. I think putting the rubber through a large number of big heat cycles damages the rubber to a small extent. I have nothing to back this up other then a gut feeling.... and the knowledge that heat cycles change the way tires preform on a race car.

Sticky climbing shoe rubber was originally adapted from race car tire rubber, I seem to recall.

Probably a combo platter of ozone and the heat cycle making the surface of the exposed rubber change more quicky over time. Best bet may be to isolate the shoes in a airtight container, ie, plastic ziplock bag?

I always notice that climbing shoes I haven't used for awhile don't stick near as well, until I wear the surface of the rubber off a bit.

Diminishing return with sticky rubber for shoes. More stick seems to equal less useful working life. In climbing, on certain routes, that's a tradeoff I'm willing to make (big time, some days, on some climbs). In canyons, unless you really need the advantage of super sticky rubber, might not be as big a deal. Flip side is too, that sticky rubber does leave a black mark on the rock too, so, not as "leave no trace" as the less sticky stuff.

Good feedback on the Exum Rivers. I'm wearing my old Exums (retired from outdoor use, relegated to office use) and notice that they have held up externally very well. One thing I do is lock down the threads with that thick seal coat stuff (ie, like shoe goo). I wonder if applying some to the mesh (light enough coat so as to not block the mesh holes) might give more working life.

Another thing I've noticed with shoes and wear is, it also depends on how the shoe last is built, and, how well your feet fit it. Mine tend to run a bit wide especially in the little toe area, so, I add glue to the little toe region so's I don't pop a hole in that area (which I've seen numerous times in the past and my current climbing shoe has a hole in the leather (!) in that spot on one shoe). So, if you have real wide feet, and the shoes are built for narrow, you may be wearing the mesh out sooner partly because of the way your foot is forcing the sides out. Also, I note that friends who tend to have sloppy feet, or, drag their toes, etc, wear their shoes out in those areas much sooner than folks with more precise footwork. So, not due to the shoe but, their footwork.

Anyhoo, good stuff. Have a new pair of Exum Rivers in the box, unused, sized larger to fit a neoprene sock. Been impressed with the Exums, for sure.

-Brian in SLC

[Iceaxe]

Sticky climbing shoe rubber was originally adapted from race car tire rubber, I seem to recall.

Interesting... I didn't know that.... but it makes sense.

Now I'm really curious since I do have some knowledge of tire compounds and such....

So race car tires can be treated with chemical products to make them super sticky, Track Bite is one such product (FYI: Chemically treating the tires is banned by most sanctioning bodies). So it stands to reason that old canyoneering or climbing shoes might be treated similiarly?

I'll see if I can get my hands on some Track Bite and test it on some old canyoneering shoes....

[stefan]

the exum river is a damn fine, comfortable, and functional shoe

i say that despite three things

(1) utah canyoneering simply abuses these shoes all around (whatareyagonnado?). the rubber outers do a fair job of holding the shoe together. that seam in the mid-frontal rubber outer needs to go or be better protected.

(2) prolonged stemming in canyons really wears down the soles a great deal, which i have no doubt is dependent upon weight requiring more friction. (again, whatareyagonnado?)

(3) and that strap ... i took those of before i even used each of the pairs that i own. the yellow plastic on the first pair came broken in the mail

[Bo_Beck]

[quote="Iceaxe"][quote="Brian in SLC"]Sticky climbing shoe rubber was originally adapted from race car tire rubber, I seem to recall.

Vitali Bramani "VIBRAM" , Italy started using 'Race Car Tires' rubber on his shoes to get better traction while climbing.

[erial]

May want to go with light coats of that Track Bite:


http://www.outsidegroove.com/SpeedRe...g_07252002.htm

In truth, however, few (if any) crewmen take these precautions. Most slather the stuff on with a paintbrush, paying little heed to spillage or adequate ventilation. Off the record, one ACT Late Model crewmember admitted that before the softener ban took effect in 2000, he personally went through four pairs of sneakers in a season, after tire softener ate the bottoms.

[chabidiah]

I know this thread is about the "rivers" but has anyone seen the 5-10 "Camp 4's". They have the same sole as the canyoneers but they are a low-top that looks a little more stylish. I would have to agree that I choose function over form and the canyoneers aren't the best looking shoe but once you have that stealth rubber under foot its hard to complain about looks. How does that shoe goo work? Do I want to put a thin layer on or do I just coat it up nice and thick? Anyway, if anyone knows anything about the Camp 4's, speak up.

[Iceaxe]

How does that shoe goo work?

I put it over all the exposed stitching on any new canyoneering shoe. It really extends the life of some shoes.

[chabidiah]

Cool, I will give it a try. Does it effect how the canyoneers drain?

[Iceaxe]

Does it effect how the canyoneers drain?

Nope... the canyoneers actually have recessed stitching so the Shoe Goo advantage is not as great. The idea behind coating the stitching is you are armour coating the thread so it does war through on tight canyon foot jam type stuff. You can also Shoe Goo any other high wear spot on the shoe.

[Iceaxe]

The Exum River Canyoneering shoes are 50% at backcountryoutlet.com

http://www.backcountryoutlet.com/out...ml?id=L5QfaJGd

Only smaller sizes avaiable but a good price for a sticky shoe to fit the wife and kids.

[trackrunner]

Bump

Not sure if should bump or new thread

I bought a pair of Exum Rivers this summer. Fit my narrow/thin/long competitive running feet better. On the Spry Canyon approach hike I noticed the sole was separating from the shoe. I hadn't worn the shoe much (just braking it in, and one trip through Echo), so it was an obvious defect. Sent it back to LaSportiva and received a call today to say LaSportiva will replace it. Nice customer service.

One thing, LaSportiva said it doesn't have a pair because it

[gwest]

I've taken my exum rivers through several canyons now. I like them better than the 5.10's because I can use them on an everyday basis, and I use them hiking, backpacking, etc. The plastic piece holding the strap of course broke before I got them into a canyon (hopefully they're changing that with the new ones). Other than that, durability-wise I'm pretty happy. The tread is wearing, but not alarmingly fast. They drain water really fast. I haven't had more of a problem with sand build up than other shoes, and the mesh allows some sand to escape. The rubber uppers hold up very well. As others have said though, I'm not sure if I'll fork out the money for them again. These might last 1.25 yrs with heavy abuse. Before these I used sportiva slingshots that I got off steepandcheap for $25, and those lasted about a 0.8 years.

As far as the camp 4's.. the current design has a flaw that allows sand to get in between 2 layers of fabric in the toe box, filling up to the point that you can't fit your toes in anymore. A friend of mine had the problem, exchanged them, and had the same problem again.
Another friend of mine has an older model of a similar 5.10 shoe with the same sole. He loves them, they've held up really well.

[Cirrus2000]

Does anyone know of the changes/updates to the Exum River?

Funny - on Sunday, the dude at the backcountry desk in Zion was chatting and chatting and chatting and chatting on the phone while I waited to get a permit. When he finally got off the phone to serve a paying customer (me), he told me that he just heard from a friend on the phone that the Exum River had been discontinued. He was going to head out and buy a few pair. So perhaps it's not as dire as he was led to believe.

I'd love to get a pair, but my freakin' transmission has put a crimp in my discretionary spending...

[Brian in SLC]

When he finally got off the phone to serve a paying customer (me), he told me that he just heard from a friend on the phone that the Exum River had been discontinued. He was going to head out and buy a few pair. So perhaps it's not as dire as he was led to believe.

I'd heard that as well (from someone at La Sportiva).

As long as they keep the Exum around (love that shoe).

I've only used the Exum Rivers around 5 or 6 days, but, they look brand new still. Really like them.

-Brian in SLC