Lone Peak in Winter.

[lonepeakgeek]

I'm looking for anyone who's made a true winter ascent of Lone Peak. I've got plenty of summer experience on it- and I've made 3 or 4 winter attempts- gotten within a few hunderd feet. If you've done it and don't mind telling your secrets I'd love to hear about it.

[Scott P]

I've done it from Alpine. When we went, about nine years ago, we had stable conditions. The crux is the south summit to north summit traverse, and if it is heavily corniced or iced up, forget about it. Luckily we had fairly good conditions.

What is the type of info that are you looking for?

I imagine that the Draper Ridge should always be good, but the very end of the route would still be a challenge. Bear Canyon and Big Willow are routes that were established and popular after I moved to CO, so I'm completely unfamiliar with them.

I would rate is as much easier than Timp or Twins in the winter. Lone may be tougher than Timp in summer, but not winter, at least not in conditions I've had on both mountains.

[Iceaxe]

I just answered this over in the climbing section in more detail. Folks only need to post in one section, we'll find ya.

I've climbed Lone Peak twice in winter, both times using Jacobs Ladder (Draper Ridge). Lone is much more technical then either Timp or (Broads) Twin Peak in winter. That last 1/4 mile of exposured knife edge ridge will really grab your attention. Twin is probably the most dangerous, you cross some major avalanche paths. A couple of guys got whacked climbing Twin via Storm Mountain about three years ago. Timp is probably the hardest physically, but not the challenge technically.

YMMV

[Scott P]

Lone is much more technical then either Timp or (Broads) Twin Peak in winter. That last 1/4 mile of exposured knife edge ridge will really grab your attention. Twin is probably the most dangerous, you cross some major avalanche paths. A couple of guys got whacked climbing Twin via Storm Mountain about three years ago. Timp is probably the hardest physically, but not the challenge technically.

Shane, I know what you mean. I found Lone to be easy in winter, except for the last section. I still thought it was easier than Timp or Twins, which I have also done in winter.

I rated the other two peaks as more difficult, because the safer routes on Twins and Timp, are not easy, and the easier routes are not safe. Aspen Grove and Broads Fork are both death traps in winter.

The safer line, for each peak in my opinion is (click on links):

Twins

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/...&object_id=390

Much safer than Broads Fork, but by far the hardest winter climb I've ever done, save maybe the South Teton, which I failed on.

Timp

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/...object_id=1541

Safer than Aspen Grove, but not too easy. Not that tough either, but it was easier than Lone.

I guess the Aspen Grove (but it has a tough cliff band) and Broads Fork routes may be easier than Lone in winter-maybe, but they are dangerous routes, and I would choose one of the above, even though they would be more difficult.

Anyway, here are a few trip reports of my bad luck on Timp in winter:

South Ridge (anyone in the WMC will recognise the names, but please correct my spelling)


http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/tr...untain_id=1541

Ginsu Ridge

http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/tr...untain_id=1541

If conditions were better, I'm sure Timp would be an easier climb than when we found it. I still haven't summited the dang thing in winter.

I never did write a trip report for Lone because there isn't much to be said, because eveything worked ut so well, and it was a flawless climb in good conditions.

[Iceaxe]

Winter climbing is so condition dependant; I find it really hard to compare difficulty. I have been turned back three times on winter climbs of Lone Peak because of poor conditions. All my attempts have included the treacherous west ridge. I figure from Alpine might be easier but never tried it that way.

[Sombeech]

Hey, welcome to the forum, lonepeakgeek! Sorry I can't help you, but you should intro yourself in the Newbies section.

Good luck on finding a partner.

[lonepeakgeek]

Thanks for the info, Guys. I've come into the cirque durring winter by Alpine- via the hamongogs; by Big&Little Willow canyon, and now by a more direct route of my own mechination. I chicken out every time I get to thesaddle just below the northern step. Have you guys been up there on that northern ridgeline between Jan. and Feb.


I'm comfy with Lone- probably climbed it a dozen times by 5 or 6 routes- but I'm scared to death of punching through a snow crust into oblivion- or to have a slab shear off underneath me.

Please see the attached Google-Earth image where I identify the point at which I turn into a sissy.



Sorry about the multiple posts- I can see why that'd be annoying.

[Sombeech]

Hey, good to know there's another Google Earth user out there. That program is great.

You should also post a ".kmz" location tool beneath your pic, so it will take us right there.

[lonepeakgeek]

Here's the map again- but in .kmz format. Grateful for your tips.

[Iceaxe]

What is KMZ format and how do I use it?

[shaggy125]

It's the file format google earth uses to save placemarks, folders, embedded photos, etc... If you have google earth installed on your machine and you open a .kmz file is should open it in google earth automatically.

[Sombeech]

It's the file format google earth uses to save placemarks, folders, embedded photos, etc... If you have google earth installed on your machine and you open a .kmz file is should open it in google earth automatically.

Yep. If you have Google Earth installed, it doesn't even have to be open for you to click on the attachment.

Click on the download button in lonepeakgeek's post, and it opens up G-Earth for you, and takes you right to the location so you don't have to search for it.