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Type: Posts; User: moabmatt
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05-08-2014, 08:04 AM
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Regarding the last rap anchor in Granary... ...
Regarding the last rap anchor in Granary...
The "first guys" still use it. It's worked fine for us since 1996, so we're not really sure what the "problem" is? Since you mentioned rope grooves I'm... -
04-20-2013, 11:52 AM
Thread: Undercover Canyon
by moabmatt- Replies
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[Trip Report] That boundary sign is interesting. I haven't been...
That boundary sign is interesting. I haven't been in there recent enough to see that. For what it's worth, the park boundary in the Undercover watershed follows the 4800' contour, which crosses the...
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04-19-2013, 04:19 PM
Thread: Looking for beta on canyons near Moab
by moabmatt- Replies
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I can't believe folks are still asking for beta...
I can't believe folks are still asking for beta on Medieval Chamber. Don't people use topo maps anymore?! Look at one - your "beta" is staring right at you.
About a year after we started our guide... -
03-25-2013, 09:46 AM
Thread: Corona Arch Rope Swing
by moabmatt- Replies
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Unfortunately, the height of the arch, the swing...
Unfortunately, the height of the arch, the swing itself and the amount of freefall have been grossly exaggerated by many, including a guide service offering the swing. I've heard it's as much as a...
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03-23-2013, 10:00 AM
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Having two knots in the system, one close to the...
Having two knots in the system, one close to the anchor and one close to the rapide, will create a length of two independent strands. I use this often when the webbing is going over a sharp edge. Tie...
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HaHa! I love it. On this note, I do use suits...
HaHa! I love it. On this note, I do use suits with feet for a variety of activities, including canyoneering. Shane, you advise against booties since they'll get holes in them. With this logic you...
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12-11-2012, 08:48 AM
Thread: Elephant Butte
by moabmatt- Replies
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[Trip Report] Just to the right of the exposed climb there is a...
Just to the right of the exposed climb there is a notch in a small watercourse (easily seen in the photos). If I'm with some weak climbers I'll scramble up the climb and hunker down into the crack...
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10-03-2012, 05:07 PM
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The canyons of Glen Canyon NRA have been under a...
The canyons of Glen Canyon NRA have been under a fixed-anchor ban since 2000, so bolts aren't allowed. The watertrap may not be a perfect solution in everyone's eyes, but I see this as a very...
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09-03-2012, 01:34 PM
Thread: Pull Cord Management
by moabmatt- Replies
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In my opinion, this is exactly why you don't want...
In my opinion, this is exactly why you don't want to try and get by with paracord. Use something stronger and less stretchy (ie, a real rope) in such a critical location to help ensure a successful...
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08-11-2012, 10:22 AM
Thread: MMI/Lost & Found/Winter Wash
by moabmatt- Replies
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[Trip Report] We called it Undercover because of Covert Arch.
We called it Undercover because of Covert Arch.
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07-03-2012, 03:11 PM
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Call me old-fashioned, but this stuff seems a bit...
Call me old-fashioned, but this stuff seems a bit overkill for the task at hand. How complicated and cumbersome must we make a canyon descent?
Just buy four feet of 9/16" for a dollar and tie the... -
04-24-2012, 07:25 PM
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[Beta] That red line does mark the side canyon I'm...
That red line does mark the side canyon I'm thinking of and I suspect that's the same one Shane is referencing. Your yellow line is not on the fin your thinking. The 5.4X fin is two fins south of...
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04-24-2012, 07:13 PM
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[Beta] These climbing exits are pretty serious...
These climbing exits are pretty serious undertakings. The middle 5.4 ramp is the easiest, but that "R" suffix should be an "X." If you fall off that ramp it's over, for sure. A belay on that ramp...
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04-19-2012, 04:08 PM
Thread: Morning Glory Arch Simul-rap
by moabmatt- Replies
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[How To] On trips with only one guide we always have one...
On trips with only one guide we always have one client - a very responsible client - first rap solo off of either a cam placed in a crack by the main anchor tree or from a large boulder set back a...
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04-19-2012, 03:31 PM
Thread: Water vs overhand knot
by moabmatt- Replies
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Some folks in Bighorn Canyon in Arches a year or...
Some folks in Bighorn Canyon in Arches a year or so ago.
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03-26-2012, 10:15 AM
Thread: Auto-Locking vs. Screwgate
by moabmatt- Replies
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Poll: I use a steel, autolocking oval for my rappel and...
I use a steel, autolocking oval for my rappel and belay biner. Had it for years and it just won't wear out, even when paired with a tube-type or pirana rap device on wet, sandy ropes. In addition...
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02-29-2012, 02:17 PM
Thread: Rap accident in Rubio Canyon; 60' fall
by moabmatt- Replies
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Regardless of the friction set up in the device,...
Regardless of the friction set up in the device, there would not have been a difference in the slipperiness of the wall. Slippery walls can certainly provide an added challenge to the rappel.
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02-25-2012, 02:14 PM
Thread: How to rappel from 300 feet
by moabmatt- Replies
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[How To] Hi Bob, I'm a big fan of the ABC Figure 8. ...
Hi Bob,
I'm a big fan of the ABC Figure 8. How I rig it for a long rappel depends on several factors, of course, including the diameter of the rope, how much weight it's supporting, dry rap or... -
11-27-2011, 04:50 PM
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I also saw those routes this summer. I thought...
I also saw those routes this summer. I thought it was in poor taste, too. It's definitely very mediocre climbing and considering the long approach it just doesn't seem worth it. With this in mind...
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10-04-2011, 02:45 PM
Thread: Black Hole Conditions - warning?
by moabmatt- Replies
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The changes are cyclical, for sure, yet they seem...
The changes are cyclical, for sure, yet they seem to be more frequent nowadays. I first hiked the BH in '94 and for ten years there was hardly any change from year to year. I realize that's not...
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08-04-2011, 09:04 PM
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[How To] I'm guessing Scott meant he untwists the single...
I'm guessing Scott meant he untwists the single strand of rope while rapping on that single strand with an ATC. I like doing this,too, and I refer to it as "squeegee-ing" the rope, as you see the...
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08-01-2011, 10:21 PM
Thread: Figure 8 block with lower
by moabmatt- Replies
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With these folks you shouldn't have a preference,...
With these folks you shouldn't have a preference, rather you should consider both a top belay and contingency. If someone gets their hair caught, they'll appreciate immediate relief. This is not...
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07-31-2011, 03:05 PM
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What ropes are you using?! I weigh 170# and if I...
What ropes are you using?! I weigh 170# and if I tie an 8mm Imlay (or even a 3/8" HTP) to a 300' high bridge (ie, dry rappel) so the end is an inch off the ground I'll end up with quite a bit of rope...
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07-31-2011, 11:37 AM
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Hank, Tom and Deathcricket, Touche, indeed. ...
Hank, Tom and Deathcricket,
Touche, indeed. You've all made some very good points and it's certainly making me think.
Yes, there is the possibility the Fig8 could lever against the gate (or... -
07-30-2011, 11:04 AM
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I've been slow to adopt - in fact, probably won't...
I've been slow to adopt - in fact, probably won't adopt if I haven't by now - the newer, more expensive devices like the Pirana or ATS. A $10 Figure 8 is my preference. Obviously, I'm not against the...
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