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Hello,
I've been practicing rope ascending using my Petzl Ascension and a GriGri2. Naturally, when I get to the top of the rope, I have to get back down (I setup a rope in my two story house for practice). The GriGri2 works great for the descent (all 18' of it).
I'm wondering.... Can you use a GriGri for rappelling and what are the pros and cons? Seems like an immediate pro is that it will stop if you let go (like an autoblock). Con is that it gets very hot.
Sure...with a couple of limitations. Watch your rope diameter. I'd imagine a real skinny rope wouldn't lock the device up. And...you have to use it on a single line.
I also noticed starting the GriGri up is a bit tricky, hard to get a smooth start going and I tend to bounce a little. Especially on an ackward start. But sure why not, it works!
I have used a GriGri quite a lot for repelling and it is great for a free fall repel. Going down a slopper it does tend to stick and be bouncy. I have heard a lot of people talk about them getting "hot". In my opinion, most other belay devices get much more hot than a GriGri. I did Egypt 2 and my Parana could have burnt a hole through granite. I did Heaps with a GriGri and it worked great. I just tried out the Petzel Rack an was impressed with it. Does anyone know if they get majorly heated up? It seems with all the camming it would stay pretty cool.
(for canyoneering)
pros (all rope dependent):
- might help prevent a fall if you let of the brake line
- works well in ascent systems
- can be used for haul pulley/ratchet
cons:
- relatively heavy
- requires two hands to descend
- single rope only
- descent control can be tricky
- expensive
- easily dropped (must be entirely disconnected for rope insertion/removal)
- brake assist may not work depending on rope type/diameter/condition, etc.
- easier than most devices to rig incorrectly, which can have really bad consequences
- Limited rope diameter range
- really expensive if you use it in damp/sandy canyons
- Can glaze/damage rope if cam/handle is over-used for braking
Maybe cons
- Grit/mud may impede rappelling and/or jam braking mechanism?
Nicely summed up, Hank!
Hank, one thing I'd add to the cons is that it's easy to shockload, or at least bounce hard on your anchors. I've found that it's harder to control your rate of descent with a grigri, which leads to more sudden stops, which jerks on the rope.
A lot of the canyons require natural anchors, deadman anchors, or old (sometimes single) bolts. Not the kind of thing you really want to bounce on.
Also, why carry the extra weight? Get a piranha or a reverso 4. carry tiblocs or prussics for ascending (shouldn't be that often in a canyon). You'll be happier.
If you're bouncing on it, then, uhh, you need to spend some more time with it. I find it pretty darn smooth to descend with. Everyone that I know that uses a gri gri to lower a climber of a route would agree that they're smooth too. You could go to Momentum and watch folks get lowered if you need confirmation (ha ha).Quote:
Originally Posted by price1869
Weight? Gri gri 2 = 170g. Pirana = 90g and Tibloc = 39g, so, not a huge difference.
Not that I'd carry one in a canyon, unless I knew I needed to ascend a bunch...
Attachment 56455
Quote:
Originally Posted by price1869
Welllllllllllll, out et non. IF you try to control your descent with the handle, jerkiness will ensue. OTOH, if you pull the handle all the way back and control your descent via tensioning the free end of the rope with the brake hand, smoothness is easily attained. Of course, the GRIGRI doesn't provide as much friction as a classic belay device, so the latter technique is facilitated by one or more of the following: a) proper gloves; b) xtra friction 'biner; c) lightweight rappeller; d) wet rope