The Great White Book July 25th 2011
With Ryan and Stevee gone the night before and Tom due in the next day, it left
us a day to do as we pleased. Aaron wanted to do Fairview Dome. I wanted to
something easier, but nothing seemed to fit the bill. We started with a trip to
Mono Lake and the tufas, before heading into the park. We were a bit ignorant of
the area and its options. We considered a drive to the Sequoias. Aaron had never
seen a big tree before. Considered a drive to the Valley. Aaron had never seen
the Valley before. I wanted to see if Tenaya Lake was as pretty as I remembered
from all those years back, while dating in the Wilderness.
Well the lake was as pretty but the road seemed an intrusion. The beaches and
backgammon called to us, but not before spying the climbers on this Dome near
the lake.There were groups lined up on the left and groups lined up on the
right. No one on this wild looking dihedral in the center. An old timer, maybe a
few years older than I, started chatting us up. Seems the route on the left was
5.7. The route on the right was 5.8. Our pal said both routes had excellent
protection. We inquired about the route in the center, which still was empty. He
laughed. He said it was only 5.6, but protection it did not have. About 5-6
pitches. He said it was R rated and famed. Called the Great White Book. He
prodded us on. He was going to do a roped solo of the 5.7. He took off his shoes
and I noted he had no toes. Wondered where he has been? Pretty grizzly and buff
for 60 or so. He said the lack of protection didn't matter. Wasn't sure if I
should be following the fellas
advice.....but the line was sooooo compelling.
So much for a driving around tourist rest day. Aaron takes a 5.8 variation into
the open book. First Yosemite slab climbing for him. Got the boys attention, it
did. Then came the dihedral, 4 pitches of it. We both agreed that of all the
climbs either of us have ever done, this was more like R and X canyoneering than
anything....ever before. Stem away. Occasionally the exposure was huge, but
often it felt like the easier parts of Sandthrax...and an absolute delight as we
laughed our way up the route, with pure joy. You like stemming corners? Try this
one on! A slab pitch at the top finished the show.
We hung for hours on top. Then descended and drove toward the Valley. Then hiked
to the base of Fairview Dome. It didn't look so bad after all! Tom was due in at
that evening. A pizza at the famed Mobil Station in Lee Vining killed some time
while we waited. One more day of climbing to go. The SE Buttress of Cathedral
and the famed Eichorn Pinnacle awaited.
You can see the Great White Book, from below in pictures 34-36. Crazy fun stuff
https://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14...okJuly25th2011
