CVT Belt Replacement (Kawi Brute Force 750i)

Help!

I just pulled the CVT cover off to replace my belt and I'm finding there's old belt shrapnel still wrapped around the spline on the rear most pulley. I've been unable to budge the bolt to remove that pulley (turns the crank) to remove the old belt components. Here are a few photos to illustrate where I'm at. Any advice appreciated.

http://www.xmission.com/~jamesk/belt/belt1.jpg
http://www.xmission.com/~jamesk/belt/belt2.jpg
http://www.xmission.com/~jamesk/belt/belt4.jpg

What was left of the old belt
http://www.xmission.com/~jamesk/belt/belt3.jpg

Haven't done any clutch work on ATV's but am pretty good on a snowmobile. If it was a snowmobile the clutch on the front(right of picture)
Would be the drive clutch(mounted to motor) The rear would be the driven. The clutch on your front would require a specific puller. The one in the rear would unbolt and pull off by hand. Can you keep the rear clutch from rotating and undo the bolt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oldno7

Haven't done any clutch work on ATV's but am pretty good on a snowmobile. If it was a snowmobile the clutch on the front(right of picture)
Would be the drive clutch(mounted to motor) The rear would be the driven. The clutch on your front would require a specific puller. The one in the rear would unbolt and pull off by hand. Can you keep the rear clutch from rotating and undo the bolt.

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Correct. The manual indicates special holders to remove each pulley (that I do not have). The rear (left) is the Driven Pulley - and without that tool or damaging the pulley, I need to remove it to get the remnants of the belt off the spline.

Got it off (finally). Damned near threw my back out trying to put as much torque on that bolt as humanly possible. I used another wrench in the holder hole to keep the pulley from moving.

Once I had the pulley off, I had to pry under the spring to force the belt remnants out.

New belt installed, switch flipped back to on, wires adjusted.. Bingo!

There's NO WAY I could have serviced this in the field. The amount of tools I required wouldn't be possible to take with.

Hate to add it now---But when a drive clutch was somewhat frozen on the shaft, after you put torque on the bolt we would tap the puller with a hammer and they would come off.
Congrats on eliminating a $70 hr+ shop fee.

Sometimes Brute Force and ignorance is the best way :2thumbs:
no pun intended

It looks like you have already put it back together, but to help with performance you need to take either light emory cloth or 3m scotch pad green one and clean the burnt rubber off of your clutch faces. You can spin the drive clutch with the motor to help clean it but DO NOT GET SOMETHING STUCK IN THE CLUTCH when spinning. It is not as important on a four wheeler but on a sled it will make a big difference, where every ounce of performance counts. Oh to break your driven clutch bolt loose you could of used a impact wrench if you would of had one but looks like you got it. Next time to hold your clutch you should be able to grab the brake it should hold the back clutch at least it does on a sled.
Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by davis_b_1

Sometimes Brute Force and ignorance is the best way :2thumbs:
no pun intended

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In the end, Brute Force ALWAYS works! :cool2: A pun definitely intended!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by moab mark

It looks like you have already put it back together, but to help with performance you need to take either light emory cloth or 3m scotch pad green one and clean the burnt rubber off of your clutch faces. You can spin the drive clutch with the motor to help clean it but DO NOT GET SOMETHING STUCK IN THE CLUTCH when spinning. It is not as important on a four wheeler but on a sled it will make a big difference, where every ounce of performance counts. Oh to break your driven clutch bolt loose you could of used a impact wrench if you would of had one but looks like you got it. Next time to hold your clutch you should be able to grab the brake it should hold the back clutch at least it does on a sled.
Mark

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Good to know. I'll need to take it back apart anyway and seal it all up. I'll wipe it down real well as you suggest and bundle it back up. I need it again on Friday to tow logs out of a dry canal - for use as firewood. The winch has so many uses! :2thumbs:

Impact wrenches have been known to take out the crank seal on the pto side. Just sayin'
I also like to run sandpaper over clutch surfaces to help minimize belt slippage.

So I ordered yet another CVT Clutch Belt (so I could have a spare) and put the new one on today. The new and old (~150 miles on it) are the same exact Goodyear Gator Sport belts (same part number, etc).

The old one had quite a bit of give to it compared to after I installed the new one.

What's really odd is now that the new one is in place, sitting in gear, the ATV will move at 1-2mph (same in reverse). I have to put on quite a bit of brake to get to a complete stop and it takes a little "jiggling" to get it into neutral.

Is this normal with a brand new belt or is there some other issue?

Now, except for back & forth riding in my driveway (about 25' back and forth), I've not yet ridden the machine to break in the belt.

Any advice appreciated.

Measure the width, top and bottom.
Then try to check overall length.

Slight engagement is not right, even for a new belt.
There may be shims in your clutch that you can remove
to get proper clutch sheeve width.
Also--is there a tool to check clutch alignment with the motor?