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Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Technical Crap
The Munter Hitch
This is my preferred method of rappelling without a rappel device. The Munter Hitch is reliable, assuming you set it up correctly. All you need is a locking carabiner. Make two bights in the rappel rope, like a clove hitch, and fold one over the other. Clip the loops through the carabiner which is clipped to your harness. This method puts a nasty twist in your rope, but you'll get over it. If you know how to tie a Diaper Sling and rappel on a Munter Hitch you can do some amazing things with very little gear.
The Carbiner Brake
The Carbiner Brake can be done with either six carabiners or one large locking and four regular carabiners (the large locking connecting to your harness). When using two carabiners, ALWAYS reverse the gates. These first two will keep the rope from running against your harness, however they can be eliminated in an emergency if you only have four. Then clip two opposing ovals (or Ds, although ovals are best) to the two on your harness. Put a bight of the double ropes through these two. Clip the last two ovals across these two and under the bights so they rope runs over the backs of the pair.
The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.
:phew:
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceaxe
The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.
My early climbing mentor once decided to rap down Dulfer style to save some time.. it was low angle enough, but a full 80'... His first words when he got down:
"How in the @#$% am I going to explain rope burns on my privates to my wife??"
:roflol:
Last time I ever saw him do the dufler, and enough of a warning to me to never attempt it....
YMMV, but for my money, I'm using a rap device, munter, or carabiner brake....
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Quote:
Originally Posted by deserthiker
"How in the @#$% am I going to explain rope burns on my privates to my wife??"
:lol8: :lol8: :lol8:
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceaxe
The "Dulfer"
The Dulfer is not as enjoyable as the picture below would lead you to believe. In fact, it is painful and only works on gradual slopes. Actually this method really sucks, but it will get you down in an emergency.
Works on any slope, even free hanging.
And, its not called, "the dulfer".
It is, the "D
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
[quote=Brian in SLC]
Works on any slope, even free hanging.
And, its not called, "the dulfer".
It is, the "D
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Quote:
Originally Posted by tanya
My very very very FIRST hike with Bo .... was Lady Mountain. Joe Braun was with us too. I must have got too comfy on the mountain top and left my harness behind. We get way down to the first rappel and I am without it. Bo ties me up in a Dulfersitz.... I would not have wanted to do a LONG rap in it! :lol8: It worked just fine for a short one however.
That somehow doesn't sound right (besides the obvious innuendo!).
I'd imagine he tied you a harness from webbing or rope? And lowered you? Maybe a bowline on a coil?
No way he let you rap with a D
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Bo called it a Dulfersitz :popcorn: --- so I imagine it was. He is a stickler for exact terminology and stuff..... and yes he belayed me and Joe and everyone else on the trip. Afraid to do this hike.... since it was my first like that --- I snuck down to Paragon Climbing in Veyo and took a one day climbing course from Todd. (Have you seen the new edition of his book! Its great!) That was fun! Much funner after I finally fell and found out it was sure easier than hanging on by my toes and finger tips with everything in me ----- because I was afraid to fall. :eek2: :eek2: :eek2: Then I start talking with Todd :blahblah: and find out that Bo teaches there. I just can't sneak anywhere! :cool2:
That's the one... I still wonder how a man could do that one. Has to hurt between the legs! :mrgreen:
http://uutah.com/forum/files/dulfer.gif
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Quote:
Originally Posted by tanya
Bo called it a Dulfersitz so I imagine it was. He is a stickler for exact terminology and stuff..... and yes he belayed me and Joe and everyone else on the trip.
Well, Bo knows Diddley... Makes sense, though, that he belayed you. Musta tied you straight into the rope? Then you rapped single?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tanya
Todd. (Have you seen the new edition of his book! Its great!)
Yeah, looks "ok". He seems to always be in a tiff with some of the boys up here in the City of Salt, so, leaves their stuff out of the book for spite, or some such. Too bad, 'cause, would have sold more with some of the new routes and areas in it. As it is, if you have the older guide, not a huge diff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tanya
That's the one... I still wonder how a man could do that one. Has to hurt between the legs!
Nah, not if done correctly. Mostly set on the rope down yonder, and, its well placed off to the side. If you look at this pic, you'll see extra padding up by the shoulder. That's where you get the raspberries.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/File0246.jpg
From this cool thread posted by Jeff Lowe, on the 'taco:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/th...3017#msg293017
Might beat rappelling in an old Whillans harness, though...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
Re: Getting Down Without a Rappelling Device
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian in SLC
wow . that is a great read, id like to know if that book he is talking about is done.
thanks for the link
rob
