Accident Report - Rigging Failure During a Rappel

Hello,
I’d like to share an accident report that might be of interest to the larger community.

Six of us were doing Medieval Chamber and I rigged a Jester (see below for jester details) for the first 100’ rappel into the slot. Four people rappelled down, but when the fifth person started his rappel, the rope ran freely through the jester and he semi-free fell about 35’. Luckily he landed on a nice sandy ledge part way down and only received a hairline fracture in his ankle.

I watched him clip on his safety and test his device. I warned him it was a brand new rope (Canyon Fire 8.3mm) and might be a little fast so he did a quick extra friction test and then unclipped. A second later he was falling and the rope was being pulled through the jester. I tried to reach it, but he reached the ledge before I reached the anchor.

SAR was awesome and about 15 people were on scene within 45 mins to clean his spine and hoist him up. He was able to walk the short distance to the ATV and we got a ride back to our car.


So what happened?
For those not familiar with the Jester, it is a rigging for the Totem that is adjustable and secures both strands without a safety. Rich posted a picture of the rigging here: http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/s...8978#post28978

I learned it at one of Rich’s workshops in January, and it’s been my “goto” rigging ever since. I tested it on my older canyon fire when I first learned it and I’ve run a few canyons with medium sized of groups since then, so I think there have been a few dozen rappels without any problems, even in a wet canyon.

I took a picture of the rigging before breaking it down so I confirmed it was correct. The only thing different about this setup was that the I used a brand new Canyon Fire - I know new ropes are a little slick, but I didn’t think it would comprise an rigging system.

The shocking part is that it failed on a dry rope under normal usage, which probably means even my used 8.3mms or a new 9mm ropes could have failed if stressed.

-Andre

Thanks Andre -

Hard to know what you were rigging without the picture. I realize as a bogley noob you are not yet allowed to post pictures, but if you send the pic to me, I can post it on this thread. ( CanyoneeringUSA at gmail.com )

(UPDATE): thanks for the picture, Andre. As Andre noted, the purple 1" tubular sling is part of his safety leash, rather than part of the rigging.

Glad no more damage was done. It's good to be lucky!

Tom

Thanks for the warning.

It looks to me like yes, clearly, the "stick" is dependent on the friction of the rope, as as the slots wear, it could slip if the rope is small or slick. And also the size and slickness of the carabiner.

I don't use this method as I don't carry one of those Totems. It does not look to me like you could free up one strand to use for lowering under weight; therefore I am not sure what the point is.

I am all for setting contingencies where they are useful; and also for practice, so we become proficient at using them. But, this particular "contingency rigging" seems like a poor choice.

Tom

Wow!? Maybe I'm not seeing the whole picture here? Is the object to rappel on one side of the rope or other and not on both strands? The way I'm viewing it is that if it is meant to be rappelled on one side or the other without one side not being secured it is an accident waiting to happen? Unlike a belay being provided on an ATC Guide or Reverso 3/4 set up in the "autolock" mode (which still isn't fullproof), the "Jester" is relying on much less friction for a "lockoff"? What if the descent side is unweighted momentarily such as in bouncing or other factors? Does this allow the lesser friction to allow slippage of the rope at the anchor? Why would someone use this method instead of a simple "munter/mule"? Seems that this method is "gear intensive"? I guess that I'm far behind the times?

Somewhat confused as to the advantage of using it. What is the advantage of using such a setup?:ne_nau:

I'm still confused as to why people take something as simple as rappelling and make it so complicated?


:ne_nau:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott P

Somewhat confused as to the advantage of using it. What is the advantage of using such a setup?:ne_nau:

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It looks like the last guy could just remove the clip and use the totem block as a rap device double stranded?

But yeah, if you can rap on it, it should be obvious that the rope will slide through it? Agree with Bo. I guess you could take the tail end from the rope bag and loop it once through the big circle on the totem, and secure it. But yeah, seems way to complicated to me and probably doesn't save that much time. Glad to hear the dude is ok!

Edit: Also I probably would put the top biner clip through the link and not on top of it, just swap the safety biner, orange with gold. Very unlikely, but if either of the 2 anchors failed or a single link, you would still be secure IMO. Small assurance hehe.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Iceaxe

I'm still confused as to why people take something as simple as rappelling and make it so complicated?


:ne_nau:

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A guess would be that people don't know how to do it correctly. They see pictures or people might explain how to set It up (such as on Bogley, or other forums) in a complex or confusing way.

That's mostly the reason behind our motivation in creating our how-to vids, as amateur as they are.

In my not-professional opinion, I would think American Canyoneers could use this market and create standardized, simple ways of how-tos for canyoneering. Informing and demonstrating to the public the correct and proper ways of rappelling, rigging, equalizing, etc.

And the most important part, in my opinion, making it free and open to the general public once its released. I don't see any downside to that...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Iceaxe

I'm still confused as to why people take something as simple as rappelling and make it so complicated?


:ne_nau:

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ditto

Huh... I will step into this mess. I have used the Jester a half dozen to dozen times now in canyons and on practice raps with youth and adults. I have never seen it slip at all. I have rapped on the Jester. The advantage is that you can send large groups more quickly down a rap and also that one strand is available to lower a stuck rappeller on the other strand if necessary. And yes, Tom, it is easy to free up a strand under weight. I have practiced a half dozen times with canyoneers of different weights. It is a very easy set up and I have found it very efficient and reliable. :ne_nau:

Wow! Thanks for sharing this report! I also learned the Jester rigging back in January while attending Rich's workshop. The Jester is similar to the stone knot in the fact that it isolates both strands. In addition, it allows for contingency on both strands, allowing someone up top to lower. And its actually easier than it looks to free up one strand to use for lowering under weight.

I had no idea this could happen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ratagonia

Thanks for the warning.

It looks to me like yes, clearly, the "stick" is dependent on the friction of the rope, as as the slots wear, it could slip if the rope is small or slick. And also the size and slickness of the carabiner.

I don't use this method as I don't carry one of those Totems. It does not look to me like you could free up one strand to use for lowering under weight; therefore I am not sure what the point is.

I am all for setting contingencies where they are useful; and also for practice, so we become proficient at using them. But, this particular "contingency rigging" seems like a poor choice.

Tom

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In this case I couldn't see the bottom, had inexperienced rappels who might encounter a problem (they were fine), and figured I would have to recenter rope since it was exactly twice the height, so I went with an adjustable anchor.

It is actually easy to free up one strand when weighted... hard to explain how, but it is easier to release than a figure eight, faster to step up, and it (supposedly) secures both strands to avoid rappelling off the wrong side. I was a huge fan of it before the accident.


-Andre

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott Card

Huh... I will step into this mess. I have used the Jester a half dozen to dozen times now in canyons and on practice raps with youth and adults. I have never seen it slip at all. I have rapped on the Jester. The advantage is that you can send large groups more quickly down a rap and also that one strand is available to lower a stuck rappeller on the other strand if necessary. And yes, Tom, it is easy to free up a strand under weight. I have practiced a half dozen times with canyoneers of different weights. It is a very easy set up and I have found it very efficient and reliable. :ne_nau:

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What sized ropes have you used? And have you tried shocking it?

I've used it a lot too, but after the accident I re-rigged it at the campsite and was able to make it fail consistently on that new Canyon Fire by standing on my tiptoes with a few inches of slack between me and the jester and sitting down hard.

-Andre

I don't see the advantage of this. If you are sending a large group through, then use the stone knot. Stuck rappeller? Yes, I know it can happen but how often? In my 30+ years I have only seen it once and that was in a college class with 30 beginers. If I have untrained individuals with me I will have them on belay. Otherwise they better be carrying a prussik and know how to use it.

KISS - keep it simple...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ag23

What sized ropes have you used? And have you tried shocking it?

I've used it a lot too, but after the accident I re-rigged it at the campsite and was able to make it fail consistently on that new Canyon Fire by standing on my tiptoes with a few inches of slack between me and the jester and sitting down hard.

-Andre

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Scary stuff!!!

Thanks for alerting everyone to an apparent downfall of a contingency system.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jman

A guess would be that people don't know how to do it correctly. They see pictures or people might explain how to set It up (such as on Bogley, or other forums) in a complex or confusing way.

That's mostly the reason behind our motivation in creating our how-to vids, as amateur as they are.

In my not-professional opinion, I would think American Canyoneers could use this market and create standardized, simple ways of how-tos for canyoneering. Informing and demonstrating to the public the correct and proper ways of rappelling, rigging, equalizing, etc.

And the most important part, in my opinion, making it free and open to the general public once its released. I don't see any downside to that...

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Jman, that's completely incorrect. As I stated, I learned it a class, not off of youtube or something.

-Andre

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ag23

Jman, that's completely incorrect. As I stated, I learned it a class, not off of youtube or something.

-Andre

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I apologize for making that assumption about you. Before I posted that, we didn't know you had a class for the totem.

- Andre, thanks for sharing this. You might try using 2 carabiners to capture the 2 bights and then testing. I am curious what the result would be and would do it myself, but lack a Totem. Be interesting to test the same rope when wet, too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deathcricket

Also I probably would put the top biner clip through the link and not on top of it

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X2, w/o "probably"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ag23

I think there have been a few dozen rappels without any problems, even in a wet canyon. The shocking part is that it failed on a dry rope under normal usage,

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Note that wet ropes generally give more friction.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deathcricket

It looks like the last guy could just remove the clip and use the totem block as a rap device double stranded?

But yeah, if you can rap on it, it should be obvious that the rope will slide through it? Agree with Bo. I guess you could take the tail end from the rope bag and loop it once through the big circle on the totem, and secure it. But yeah, seems way to complicated to me and probably doesn't save that much time. Glad to hear the dude is ok!

Edit: Also I probably would put the top biner clip through the link and not on top of it, just swap the safety biner, orange with gold. Very unlikely, but if either of the 2 anchors failed or a single link, you would still be secure IMO. Small assurance hehe.

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You're correct, it is really fast to unclip it and rap double stranded.

The difference is that as a block the second pass through the Totem adds fraction to what is effectively the break strand. It is the difference between using an ATC double stranded and having two ATCs rigged in series on a single strand.

Good note about the link.

-Andre

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Attached Images http://www.bogley.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1343220151

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I agree with Scott. I have used this rigging numerous times after taking a workshop from Rich. I certainly do not use it for every rappel. Every rappel requires different consideration, and therefore potentially different riggings. I find it very handy to have in the tool box. As Death Cricket pointed out, yes you can rappel without re-rigging: unclip top biner from anchor, clip lower biner to rappel loop, and off you go double stranded (called throttle mode). It acts as a sticht plate. In order to move down the rope, you need to pull on the "lever". If the lever is pulled vertical, you do not go anywhere due to too much friction in the system, which is how the jester works, but with the jester there is even more friction going up through the rapide. This way, there is no additional equipment needed, and no de-rigging/re-rigging required for last man.

As I said, I am practiced with this setup. I have bounced on it and never seen it shift. I have used both an 8.3 canyon fire and the 8.8 canyonator (the original version before Rich increased the diameter) without a problem.

Looking at the picture from ag23, I see a few problems that may have caused the failure (I am certainly no expert, so maybe I am wrong - maybe Rich will see this post and comment). The main issue revolves around how the totem is connected to the anchor. The biner, as Death Cricket mentioned, should be clipped into the rapide. Second, the safety tether should be clipped either to the bolt hanger or to the shelf in the webbing (here we have a chain, so slightly different. The way the tether is clipped here, it convolutes the whole rigging. The totem and rope do not lie in-line with one another. It appears that the biner for the tether goes between the rope and the totem (the rope is inside the biner). This pushes the rope away from the back surface of the totem, effectively eliminating some of the friction needed and lessening the angle of rope bends. I think this may be the cause of failure. If I get some time tonight I will try and play with both ways and see if this appears to be the cause. Please correct me if I am seeing the picture wrong. For reference, see the picture below for the correct way to connect to the anchor:

Attachment 57004

Anyway, that is my 2 cents. Didn't have much time, so that was typed fast with no proofreading. Sorry if it sounds tangled up! Got to run! :ne_nau: