Rap accident in Rubio Canyon; 60' fall

For the single-rope pickoffs I have done, the rescuer is on ascenders, not rappel device. It does not matter whether the rescuer starts above or below the patient. The rescuer will need to get above the patient in either case. This can be accomplished by climbing up past the patient, or downclimbing on ascenders from above. As most cave trips are not pull-downs, we are usually ascending up past the patient on the patient's line. (It is the only line.)

One step I left out for clarity earlier but feel obligated now to mention, is that you clip a safety tether between rescuer and patient as soon as patient is reached. This allows for removal of patient's gear from the rope in order to clean up the situation and prepare for lower.

If you read my post above, you will see I am talking about lowering the patient from a rap device attached to the rescuer's ascenders. This takes care of the weighted rope below you problem.

Once again, pickoffs are a last resort answer. Consider another course of action first.

thank you. To date, I have not ascended/practiced passing a party that was caught on rope. I see no problem there, I guess the rescuers rap device is inserted after the patient is taken off the line and is hanging on the rescuers sling leash/tether. Makes sense. Earlier I imagined (as an option) the procedure, (coming down a line that the patient was on - without mechanical ascenders; I had to do that once.) Friction hitches, Blakes, Distel, VT...I used a Blake's Hitch one day to go down a line, clipped a tether to the party and then inserted a rap device after which the two of us went down.

To me, this narrative is worth while. Ascending, self rescue, pick offs, taking the weight off of someones line. Pretty common to have a least one miscue a season, where some rookie or experienced party, catches a glove, shirt or large strand of hair in a device. If the rapper doesn't have (a) slings (b)prussic/slings (c) mechanical unit; and can't get to them quickly; or doesn't have the skill set to set it up; then someone else has to (a) come up/down their line or (b) come down another line and set up a sling or ladder system so the person (assuming they are cognitive/able) can stand up, take the weight off their line and take the object out of the rap device.

I have not been in the arena of caving, but I have been on many canyon trips where ropes were/are set and after going down, we ascend (some pretty significant footage.) Once in a while - couple of times - either a miscue or fatigue put someone in the zone of needing assistance. (someone had to ascend up or down to them). They were either caught on something (miscue) or their pack was taken from them (fatigue).

Other times in Zion I've come across parties (experienced climbers they always told me) who had rapped down free hanging drops of maybe 150 ft and were double stranding on a 50 mtr line. (they would go down 83 ft and holler oops.) The rapper who had no ascender, screaming, dangling on the end of the line.(they had the sense to tie off.) I/we had to go down our line, hook on to the party, have them disconnect from their line, set up on our line and then rap down on our line (not a pick off). These experiences, years ago, heightened my interest in and attention to solving problems in canyons when folk/myself are stranded. And what to do if somebody got injured or in a pickle. Thereafter I most often carried small ascenders/pocket ladder and slings, that I could get to quickly. (I'd carry other slings/gear in the pack)

There are many ways to do it, (rescue) some probably more artful or proficient than my groups style. Regardles, one little lesson we learned though was that when someone is caught or hanging in distress, there is great need to get them out of that circumstance quickly, like immediatly.

I looked at the video twice, and stopped the motion a couple of times. Can't tell if the line is 8 or 9? Appears to be a basic ATC (not an XP). Rope is run through a single biner (vs. two biners) and there is no rope through a biner on the right leg. The slide, slope, slight friction, pack, water and (something else?) stalled his demise. Yes, the best part of this whole story is that this fellow is still with us. (hopefully he gets practice in technique re dialing up optional and correct friction.) The solice and beauty of these places is worth seeing and experiencing. That one event/slip, will not create an identity; with mentoring and practice new safe horizons will unfold.

I have a few thoughts after reading the thread:

I think this happened because of inexperience.
He slipped because was not once perpendicular to the rock face, especially with that last step.
He had not made the "never let go of brake hand" rule concrete in his own mind. Grabbing above his device is further evidence of this.

The rigging of his autoblock was obviously incorrect, but that is not why he slipped. Autoblocks are there in case you screw up.

The discussion about using both strands, or increasing friction, is a bit confusing. How would 2 lines have helped him to not slip or not let go of his brake hand to grab high?

As far as not using an autoblock because it is class "c"; hard-fast rules are a great way to learn, but experience allows one to evaluate risk on a continuous basis. If I HAD to have the video, I would have certainly used an autoblock instead of a firemans belay. That's why we should all learn as much as we can, and be creative with when we use certain techniques. The flow was minor, nobody was wearing a wetsuit (that i could see) so temps were likely not an issue.

And video from below is almost never as good as a POV shot from the dude on rap!

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Originally Posted by mgetchis

The discussion about using both strands, or increasing friction, is a bit confusing. How would 2 lines have helped him to not slip or not let go of his brake hand to grab high?

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Having an adequate amount of friction equals being in control, and, when I'm in control, I have better situational awareness, am more relaxed, and, am able to make minor adjustments in body position rather than be distracted by the stress of too little friction.

Not have an adequate amount of friction is really responsible for all sorts of things, to babies crying, to people going hungry, famine, disease, war, pretty much all of societies ills.

Ha ha.

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Originally Posted by Brian in SLC

Having an adequate amount of friction equals being in control, and, when I'm in control, I have better situational awareness, am more relaxed, and, am able to make minor adjustments in body position rather than be distracted by the stress of too little friction.

Not have an adequate amount of friction is really responsible for all sorts of things, to babies crying, to people going hungry, famine, disease, war, pretty much all of societies ills.

Ha ha.

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An odd way to look at it, but we've had this discussion before and I have to admit there is a pebble of truth in the claim.

A rappeller should know how to obtain the level of friction they want with the device they have, with whatever rope is encountered. So it is odd (to me) to say that they knew all about rigging their device with two strands and knew very much less about rigging their device with one strand. It is certainly possible, but it points to a lack of training and experience, rather than use one rope vs. two ropes vs. three ropes, vs. four ropes... (turtles all the way down!).

Certainly, someone with little to no training or experience might rig a single line and a double line the same way, and they will be "safer" on the double rope. But then again, someone with little to no training is NEVER safe, out on their own. (But they can be lucky. I was!)

Tom :moses:

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Originally Posted by mgetchis

The discussion about using both strands, or increasing friction, is a bit confusing. How would 2 lines have helped him to not slip or not let go of his brake hand to grab high?

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I asked the initial question about 2 strands.

After watching the video I noticed that Matt used an ATC with no added friction on what looks like a skinny rope. I've used that same setup found it to be very fast, I'll say a 10/10 on the "fast" scale. For me that is unnerving, but for people that are lighter than me, or more skilled, I'm sure it is fine.

Matt probably weighs about what I weigh though so I fugured he would opt for 2 strands i.e. more friction, perhaps a 7/10 speed rating (IMHO). I think the 2 strand setup (on a standard ATC) is much easier to control. I was later informed that they had a contingency rigged on the 2nd strand and that they were comfortable rapping the single strand.

I agree with you that the accident had little or nothing to do with rapping a on a single strand if that is what they are comfortable with. :nod:

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Originally Posted by Slot Machine

I asked the initial question about 2 strands.

After watching the video I noticed that Matt used an ATC with no added friction on what looks like a skinny rope. I've used that same setup found it to be very fast, I'll say a 10/10 on the "fast" scale. For me that is unnerving, but for people that are lighter than me, or more skilled, I'm sure it is fine.

Matt probably weighs about what I weigh though so I fugured he would opt for 2 strands i.e. more friction, perhaps a 7/10 speed rating (IMHO). I think the 2 strand setup (on a standard ATC) is much easier to control. I was later informed that they had a contingency rigged on the 2nd strand and that they were comfortable rapping the single strand.

I agree with you that the accident had little or nothing to do with rapping a on a single strand if that is what they are comfortable with. :nod:

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But, perhaps Matt did not know how to rig with more friction. So...

Then again, REALLY, what happened is he let go with his brake hand. Hard to recover from that, at any normal rappel friction setting, single, double, triple, quadruple strand, whatever!

Tom

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Originally Posted by ratagonia

But, perhaps Matt did not know how to rig with more friction. So...

Then again, REALLY, what happened is he let go with his brake hand. Hard to recover from that, at any normal rappel friction setting, single, double, triple, quadruple strand, whatever!

Tom

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I agree with you and mgetchis. Your initial analysis and questions were more educated than mine. :gents:

Bob

This was on 9mm Bluewater Canyonline, technora/nylon, which I find sticky when wet.

Regardless of the friction set up in the device, there would not have been a difference in the slipperiness of the wall. Slippery walls can certainly provide an added challenge to the rappel.

So, on a somewhat related note, I'd recommend that for certain polished walls folks rappel down on their hip or butt instead of trying to stay on their feet. I know this sounds weird, but it makes life easier - and safer - on those slippery slopes. I do this all the time, even on dry walls. It's actually a lot of fun and you can typically rappel much faster sliding down a polished wall than by walking down it. You're essentially doing a controlled slide or toboggan. I'm always amazed at just how much folks will struggle to stay on their feet when they could just slide down with ease.

Simply put, you can't slip if you're aready against the wall. In this case he'd definitely get soaked doing this and without a wetsuit this may not have been an atttractive option. But as they say...You dry quicker than you heal!

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Originally Posted by moabmatt

So, on a somewhat related note, I'd recommend that for certain polished walls folks rappel down on their hip or butt instead of trying to stay on their feet. I know this sounds weird, but it makes life easier - and safer - on those slippery slopes. I do this all the time, even on dry walls. It's actually a lot of fun and you can typically rappel much faster sliding down a polished wall than by walking down it. You're essentially doing a controlled slide or toboggan. I'm always amazed at just how much folks will struggle to stay on their feet when they could just slide down with ease.

Simply put, you can't slip if you're aready against the wall. In this case he'd definitely get soaked doing this and without a wetsuit this may not have been an atttractive option. But as they say...You dry quicker than you heal!

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Total :2thumbs: agreeeeeement.

Tom

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Originally Posted by moabmatt

Regardless of the friction set up in the device, there would not have been a difference in the slipperiness of the wall. Slippery walls can certainly provide an added challenge to the rappel.

So, on a somewhat related note, I'd recommend that for certain polished walls folks rappel down on their hip or butt instead of trying to stay on their feet. I know this sounds weird, but it makes life easier - and safer - on those slippery slopes. I do this all the time, even on dry walls. It's actually a lot of fun and you can typically rappel much faster sliding down a polished wall than by walking down it. You're essentially doing a controlled slide or toboggan. I'm always amazed at just how much folks will struggle to stay on their feet when they could just slide down with ease.

Simply put, you can't slip if you're aready against the wall. In this case he'd definitely get soaked doing this and without a wetsuit this may not have been an atttractive option. But as they say...You dry quicker than you heal!

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I also agree with this. Also, if it's slippery I'll sometimes slide down with my knees on the wall. For some reason I feel more in control that way than I do on my side, not sure why. It is a lot more stable than trying to stay on your feet, though.

Yes the buttslide is a good way to prevent the slippery feet. It comes down to good rap technique on this one. Two lines or twenty, you should not use the number of lines as how you plan to increase friction. 9mm isn't really that skinny these days, and is still within the operating range of most of the ATC's I have encountered. Practice Practice Practice! 90 degrees to the wall, never let go of brake hand, even with a prussik, until it is tied off!

This is a fantastic thread! Rubio is kind of a funny canyon. Very slippery and lots of newbies. I was there this past weekend with my wife and a friend who had previous experience in Zion and rock climbing - 3 people total. We were practicing for a Zion trip.

We had a near accident on a different part of this canyon. I had the "new" person go down second a couple of times to ensure she was belayed as I assessed her abilities. On a 25ft rap, she slipped in the waterway. I saw her left hand go down to stop the fall, then her right hand left the rope completely for about a second. The belayer saw it coming and engaged the belay. I let the rappeler know that she had completely let go of the rope - she was NOT AWARE that she did it. Afterwards, we spent some time "refreshing" the finer points of not letting go, using an autoblock, and how to belay properly.

I used to hate the autoblock and found it slow and pointless. Now I really like it when used with my chain reactor - it helps to practice and tune it in for different ropes. I agree it should not be a crutch - yet when used properly, it's very dependable (like most gear). It's very handy for the first person going down, in waterfalls, and at night. I have every rappeler test their systems first, auto-block or not. If there's a reliable fireman's belay below, I usually say no auto-block is needed.

Thalehaha Falls has a nice flat station to test everything out ahead of time. When we arrived at the falls this weekend, I had a contingency anchor rigged for single rope rap and our new member chose to use the auto-block while being belayed. Slow, but no worries. I collected a big locking SMC carabiner on the webbing of this rappel and couldn't figure out the scenario that led to it being there (another rescue?). Maybe someone didn't trust the rapide.

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Originally Posted by unripecoconut

Afterwards, we spent some time "refreshing" the finer points of not letting go

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:haha: Always good to go over those every once in awhile :spruceup:

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but in your scenario, with your less-experienced partner insisting on going after you, you could have pre-rigged his set-up. In flowing water, however, the third hand friction hitch may be a serious liability. Also, a Fireman's belay from you could have avoided this situation entirely. Better come home alive than have great footage of your buddy dying.

Very strange that this thread has popped back to the top today as I just did this canyon today and was thinking about this incident. ..the rappel looks fairly sloped in the video, but in reality it is much more steeper than it looks.

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Originally Posted by spinesnaper

Bob

Going down the water way is how we roll in SoCal canyons. They were doing the canyon which is in the water course. It's a low flow class C canyon. Not so different than going down Boundry in Zion with water flow. They are doing single strand because that is how the big boys do it (versus toss n' go). I suspect they felt sufficiently confident that neither suspected that this accident might transpire.

It is interesting in looking at the video is slow motion. The rappeller is out of balance with his torso leaning into the fall line. This reduces the pressure being applied through the feet which are not being maintained perpendicular to the rock face. As he slips he removes his brake hand from the rope to reach out and absorb the immediate impact of hitting the rock. As he begins to accelerate he reaches up and grabs the rope above the rappel devise. His hands are gloved. This maneuver undoubtedly slowed his descent. About half way down he bounces in the water course and impacts the back wall in the open book but this impact is absorbed by his backpack. Immediately after this his head also impacts the open book wall behind him but this blow is cushioned by his helmet. He survives a potentially fatal fall as a result of this. Of course it would have been better to have maintained better posture at the top of the rappel to maintain more force to the soles of his boots, to absorbed a potential hip pointer from the small slip on the rope as opposed to taking the braking hand off the rope, and finally, as pointed out a fireman's belay would also have been beneficial here. I know there are other points to be learned here.

All in all, it is amazing that there are no injuries and amazing that there is video of this accident to facilitate its analysis.:phew:

Ken

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Glad he was not seriously injured, and yes, I recognize this is an old conversation/thread. But I think Ken nails it in what I bold-faced above. Being out of proper alignment almost dooms one to slip on polished, wet rock. At this angle, his feet no longer have enough contact with the wall so that he can continue "walking" down the face of the cliff. Once he slips, his feet are dangling uselessly below his torso, and as he swings toward the rock face, he reflexively releases his brake hand so he can "stiff arm" the wall and avoid coming into contact with it.

To be sure, some slipping may have still occurred even if his legs were perpendicular to the rock face, but he could have warded off the wall by repositioning his feet, and not been tempted to use his arm/hand to avoid impact with the wall. Leaning back and being mostly perpendicular to the rock face is also important for negotiating overhangs and lips as well. Again, so glad he sustained no serious injuries. Live and learn.

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Originally Posted by townsend

Glad he was not seriously injured, and yes, I recognize this is an old conversation/thread. But I think Ken nails it in what I bold-faced above. Being out of proper alignment almost dooms one to slip on polished, wet rock. At this angle, his feet no longer have enough contact with the wall so that he can continue "walking" down the face of the cliff. Once he slips, his feet are dangling uselessly below his torso, and as he swings toward the rock face, he reflexively releases his brake hand so he can "stiff arm" the wall and avoid coming into contact with it.

To be sure, some slipping may have still occurred even if his legs were perpendicular to the rock face, but he could have warded off the wall by repositioning his feet, and not been tempted to use his arm/hand to avoid impact with the wall. Leaning back and being mostly perpendicular to the rock face is also important for negotiating overhangs and lips as well. Again, so glad he sustained no serious injuries. Live and learn.

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People will watch and read this and come to different conclusions as to the "cause" of the accident.

Me, I KNOW for CERTAIN, that the dude had two eggs over-easy and a cinnabon for breakfast, and was clearly out of alignment with the odd-numbers that keep out universe running smoothly. ONE egg or THREE eggs people, NEVER eat exactly TWO!!!!

I can say that I often rappel in unusual positions, including being almost vertical and letting my feet slide down the rock. Which saved my life in one instance. Focusing on his rappel position misses two much more important points, which to me are the key CAUSES of this accident:

A. someone chose to take a beginner through a Class C canyon as a twosome - inappropriate choice of canyon for this individual.

B. someone chose to shoot frakin' video, rather than provide a bottom belay to a beginner on a challenging, slippery rappel.

These are the CAUSES of this accident - everything else is a contributing factor. You can point to his lack of rappelling skill - which just reinforces my points A and B above.

Tom :moses:

Tom,

I was focusing more on the immediate cause that led the rappeler to let go of the brake line---he slipped and stuck his arm out to "absorb the immediate impact of hitting the rock" (Ken's description).

Nonetheless, your points are well made and focus on the broader context of poor choices that were made (beginner in wet canyon, and lack of bottom belay), raising the risk of an accident occurring.