Do you use a safety backup?

Does anyone have experience rigging an autoblock to the same carabiner as the rappel device? Came across something like this on a video the other day and it made me curious.

Attachment 62845Attachment 62846

Hmmmmm. Interesting.

I'm not fond of autobloc above the device, because should it be needed, it has 100% of weight on it. Could be hard to get released after setting. Also, in a loss of control incident, it is very difficult to let go of a friction knot in that position.

Also, IF you were doing it, you would want to use a real prusik cord - the Hollowbloc, once used, is not full body-weight strong - as in, I know people who have seen one break in training (no consequences).

Lots of "rappel backup" illusions out there. Not a lot of information from using them on an everyday basis.

Tom

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Originally Posted by ratagonia

Hmmmmm. Interesting.

I'm not fond of autobloc above the device, because should it be needed, it has 100% of weight on it. Could be hard to get released after setting. Also, in a loss of control incident, it is very difficult to let go of a friction knot in that position.

Also, IF you were doing it, you would want to use a real prusik cord - the Hollowbloc, once used, is not full body-weight strong - as in, I know people who have seen one break in training (no consequences).

Lots of "rappel backup" illusions out there. Not a lot of information from using them on an everyday basis.

Tom

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I thought it was interesting as well. As for the hollowblock, I just grabbed what was available off the rack. If I set something up like this it would be with a VT prusik that is generally above the device anyways because of the length of it, and can be easily released under load. I just hadn't ever thought to rig it on the same biner as the rappel device.

seems to me that if you don't like descending on an ATC - i.e., you don't trust your instincts or Lady Luck, then use a caver's rack and be done with it. Yes, its heavy - but its a great tool. Otherwise all but the first person down gets a Fireman's belay if they want it.

I use an autoblock attached to a leg loop when the rappel is a little tricky, like when rappelling over a large overhang or if i need to uncross ropes on the way down. It is a really effective technique to use if leading beginners into technical canyons, as i think it gives them a little extra confidence. Its also nice to use if you're taking some pictures on rappel.