Help- Trouble shooting from the Bogley pros.

Please help...

Just bought an older bike that was not running due to gummed up carbs, (so we thought).
1998 Susuki Katana 600. (8K miles):haha:

I cleaned the carb last night and soaked the jets. Found lots of blockages so I felt I was on the right track.
I put everything back on the bike but I can't get it to run. :cry1:
She will start and run for a second on start fluid, so I know it has spark and compression, but is not getting fuel.

I know the fuel is getting to the float bowl but it is not getting through the carb to the engine.

Please help,
Rich

I have a theory. It maybe an air/vacuum issue. I am going to check my vacuum lines and my carburetor boot seals.
Any other suggestion would be helpful.

Thanks,

Is the choke working right?
Air cleaner in good shape?
The boots to and from carb. in good shape? A slight crack is all it may take and be very very hard to see.

Is this the 4 carb model? CX600F KANTANA I think.

Thanks,
Choke seems fine.
Air box is clean.
Boots look solid, non of the rest of the hoses etc. are warn so I don't think it is that.

Yes 4-carb model.
I checked on the vacuum theory, but everything looks tight. May be missing something though. There is one vacuum hose from one of the carbs back to the fuel switch. It is getting suction. The rest of the carbs are capped.

May be a dumb question but what pressurizes the fuel and makes it shoot through the jets? There no fuel pump right?Maybe I am missing a vacuum hose but I don'r see any strays.

Thanks,

THe four carb. thing is very tricky and I'm not much help there.
But most carbs have some type of an accelerator pump that gets the gas started and as the engine comes to life it builds it's own vacuum through the speed of the engine.
You can find some parts diagrams online to help you get a better understanding.
As for the plugs to the rest of the carbs I have no clue.

I'm guessing you still have a clogged passage. Just because the jets are clean doesn't mean the passage is clear. I would run a small wire though all the passages.

Could also be a firing/timing issue. Pull the plugs and let sit for an hour or so. Then when everything is dry put them back in and try starting. Then pull the plugs again to see if they are wet. If they are then fuel is getting to the engine but is not igniting. My DR was doing this, carb was clean, plug looked good when held outside, good spark jump. Inside engine not enough battery power under compression to get a good spark. Mine ended up being a timing issue. Good luck.

Thanks all,
Good news, she is up and running. I took the carbs all the way down again and double/triple checked the jets and passages. I think some of the passages were clogged.
Everything seems to be smooth now. Just have to treat the rust inside the tank and get a pin hole welded.

Thanks,
Rich

That sounds explosive!:hair:
Good to hear that she's running however.

For real brother: If it's your tank that needs welding take it to a pro or better still replace as a whole.
Uncle Sam taught me a we bit about fuel tank repair and it is only a patch at best with a hot iron and silver soldier .

There is an art to fuel tank repair and none is worth it unless under a field expedient situation.

ASK ME HOW I KNOW. Please.

It involves a minimun 72 hrs of exhaust (cold) and about 75 ft of spark clearance. THen it is just a patch to get you down the road far enough to replace properly.



BUT if you can find a welder that knows how to replicate in allunimum thats the ticket.
He will need to be DOT certified however for safety inspections.



Sure wish somebody would put together a allu. tank for both my dirt bikes as they are the new thing for keeping this crappy gas cool and the bike running HOT and good to go. Suzuki is doing this I hear on the new moto-x bikes.

Hey what is 91 octane today is only 87 by the afternoon if left in the back of your truck with this 10% shitola methonal.

Based on my experience with jets, you will definitely have clogged jets shortly if you have rust in your tank. I would try to replace the tank or at the very least install some kind of filter before the fuel hits the carb.

I have done this one old MX bikes with excellent results. Remove the tank and drain it. Get about two cups of shot (used to load shotgun shells). Fill the tank with the shot and shake the crap out of it. Dump the shot and rust out. Wash out the tank and install an inline fuel filter. You should have no more problems. Swap out the filter for a new one in a couple of months.

I also had a pin hole once and used a fuel tank sealer and that fixed the leak. Wish I remembered what I used but that was 20 years ago. The guys at NAPA will probably have a good suggestion.

Cool you scarred me with the welding of the tank shit:lol8:
Just saying:hail2thechief:

Ok here is the final result.

Treated the tank by de-greasing with soap and hot water and steam. Then rattled some bb's in there to break up the rust. Then I picked up a KREEM kit at a Moro shop.

Kit had a rust remover treatment then a tank liner that hardens. I put some JB weld on the hole to reinforce the hole then sealed the inside.

So far so good.

Thanks,
Rich