Wahweap hoodoos

Trip report, May 9--13, 2012 (Arizona Strip, Vermillion Cliffs)

Day 1

My friend Honza and I were lucky to spend five days in the beautiful Arizona Strip between Kanab, UT and Page, AZ. Our plan was to see Coyote Buttes (both South and North), the White Pocket, Edmaier's Secret, the Nautilus, and Wahweap Hoodoos.

Each day between 50--90 people showed up for the wave lottery (CBN) at the Visitor Center in Kanab. Both of us being newbies to this process, we were full of anticipation and hopes that the chances will be kind to us. I calculated that with 80 people and an average group size of 2 (both numbers turned out to be good geusstimates in the first half of May), the probability of getting the permit each day was roughly 5/40 = 1/8 as there are 40 two-people groups and five groups (total 10 permits) are awarded. Since the permit is for the next day, you really need to stay in the area n+1 days if you want to try the lottery n times. Your chances of getting the permit are thus 1-(1-1/8)^n, which approaches 1 (certainty) with n increasing. The math, however, does not get you the permit. Luck does.

This is the only lottery I know where the winner ends up paying money and is still very happy about it. I noticed two types of folks in the lottery room. You can tell right away the first timers -- they sport a cheerful smile on their face and are full of jokes. Then, you see people with indifferent expressions who do not engage in a conversation and constantly look at their watches -- they have already been through the lottery and now start seriously doubting the laws of probability and wonder why they waste pleasant low-temperature mornings sitting in a visitor center.

As you might have guessed already from the tone of my writing, we did not get the permit and decided to stay for the lottery for Coyote Buttes South instead. This lottery takes place in the same room an hour later. Even though the CBS is an extraordinary place, few visitors are interested because the trip requires driving in deep sand and over rocks in a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle. There were exactly ten folks for the CBS lottery (a family of four and three groups of two), which meant there were no sour grapes and we all got our permits. Feeling satisfied, we swiftly drove away towards our first planned destination -- the Wahweap Hoodoos also called The Towers of Silence.

This involved driving from Kanab to Big Water on US 89 and then turning north and north-west. After a mile or so, the road becomes rocky and starts winding down to Wahweap Creek. Passing a fishery on the right, we were looking for a place to cross the dry creek bed. The map we received at the Visitor Station in Kanab showed a little zig-zaggie (east-west) before the crossing. As rule-abiding citizens, we attempted to cross the creek according to the map. However, the crossing was nowhere to be found. We followed the creek north and soon a different and quite obvious crossing appeared that easy to cross as the creek bed was dry with no mud and there was only little water. Our base model Wrangler finally got dirty and we no longer looked like outdoor wannabies with a shiny Las Vegas rental.

The hike to the hoodoos is about 4.5 miles each way. If the creek bed is dry, it is easy to walk on. Walking the same distance through mud, however, must be a lot less fun. On our way to the hoodoos, we ran into a pair of hikers from the Northwest who were surprised to see fellow humans. We apologized for disturbing their solitude, exchanged a few words, and then went our way. The hike is easy to navigate as all you need to do is to follow the creek wash. After about 4 miles, you will see the first "hoodoo nest" on your left and then another one right behind the corner. To see the tall white hoodoos, stick all the way to the left and just keep going. You will not see them until you are practically right there -- tall white mushrooms towering on a bright white slope. If you hold your breath, you will hear a “deafening silence.” No insects, birds, cars, or people. The only traces of civilization you can see around are the occasional contrails in the sky from airplanes passing above. Little do the passengers know what an immeasurable beauty hides beneath them.

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The hoodoos always remind me of the mushroom called Morchella Esculenta.

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This one was quite talkative, violating the sacred solitude.

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This is hat-less hoodoo reminded me of a ghost …

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This half-an-inch thick dry mud in the creek bed was “baked” by the sun.

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Day 1 http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthre...ahweap-hoodoos
Day 2 http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthre...e-Buttes-South
Day 3 http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthre...e-White-Pocket
Day 4 http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthre...ecret-Nautilus
Day 5 http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthre...Valley-of-Fire

Wow! Wonderful! Love the mushrooms too!

:2thumbs:

... very nice! :thumbup:

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There is an alternate route in to the Wahweep area that involves a much shorter hike. With your vehicle, you should have been able to do it. The drive is, as I recall, a bit longer though. You get to it from the Cottonwood Canyon road.

I don't have the details handy, but it's in the Photo the Southwest books, and the hike approaches the Hoodoos from the other direction.

This topic has been discussed here quite a bit. I believe the road that you mentioned is the BLM 431 if I remember correctly. AFAIK, this road is closed to public use and one can be fined when caught driving on it. I am afraid the hike is the only way to reach the hoodoos now.