TR: Spearhead Canyon Oct 13/14 2010
Spearhead Canyon, Zion National Park Oct 14 and 15, 2010
Second descent (probable) by Steve Ramras, Jenny West, Pascal van Duin and Tom
Jones
Prior History: Brian Cabe and I ascended Hook Canyon to the Majestic/Cathedral
pass and summit plateau in October 2000, and descend the canyon the next day. We
found no evidence of descents in the upper canyon, but the final chimney section
(below The Spearhead) was bolted for descent.
Steve Ramras and Steve Brezovec made an attempt a few years prior, but were
defeated by the incredibly thick Manzanita thrash-fest on the summit plateau,
and descended via Hook Canyon.
In 2009, after extensive fires burned off the Manzanita, Luke (Bluugnome) from
Las Vegas and companion climbed the Behunin Ridge for an attempt on the canyon,
but did not proceed past the summit plateau, exiting via Hook Canyon.
Spearhead has substantial logistical difficulties. How do you get to the head?
How much rope to carry? Where is there water? Because it is about a day and a
half long, perhaps one should do it in high summer with the long days… then
again, since it lacks significant water, maybe that is not such a good idea. We
decided upon a casual two day trip in cooler weather, with a crack-of-an-early
start to (try to) avoid the heat. It had rained torrentially the week before, so
we were pretty sure of finding pumpable water in the middle section of the
canyon for a bivy.
Last time, Brian and I brought 200 foot ropes and a bolt kit with many bolts;
and got lucky in not needing to use it for the canyon descent. This time we brought
a 300 foot rope, a lot more experience, and no bolt kit… comments on that later. Again
this time, the Fortuna, the Goddess of Luck smiled on our party.
Approach
We got an early start, though somewhat delayed by my leaving part of my pack
back in the car at the Museum. The hike to Behunin pass in the pre-dawn cool was
delightful. Down the canyon we went as the sky lightened. Just as we arrived at
the base of Behunin ridge, the day warmed up, so the steep climb up the very
loose and sandy lower parts of the southeast-facing ridge was excruciatingly
hot. The steep 4th class part at the top was easier than I had remembered, and
we were soon enjoying lunch overlooking the impressive dropoff into the REAL
Behunin canyon.
We crossed the plateau, grateful for the fire that burned off most of the
Manzanita. Wonderful flowers, too. Ram and I were soon examining the far wall
of Spearhead Canyon from near Hook Pass. Ram had stood here with Steve B. and
failed to see a solution. To me, I could see a small tree down from the rim,
and a sturdy ponderosa 200 feet below. EZ. Kinda.
We marked the starting point as follows: 40 feet right of the second of two
large snags, perhaps 500 feet from the top of the canyon, the second snag next
to a small orange cliff, rap from the rim 40 feet down to a single pine tree
("the Christmas Tree") on a ledge.
We rapped to the Christmas Tree ledge, then 300 feet to the ground below. Even
with 100 lb Jenny rapping, the Christmas Tree flexed a little too much for
comfort, but… I kept the upper rope in place as a backup for all but the last
rapper, me. The rap was nice down a steep, smooth wall, and well clear of the
Ponderosa, which had a sling around it but looked really bad, dried out,
tenuous. I was happy to be on the "ground".
From there, we traversed the ledge across oak brush down and right to a tree on
the edge. We replaced our sling from 10 years ago and rapped 40 feet to a nice
ledge place. Looking around, there were little to no rappelling trees within
reach. Huh? Our notes said three rappels to 165 feet. There should be a tree
around within hiking distance. No such luck.
We rearranged the rope to rappel further, down to a sturdy tree overlooking the
next cliffband. I rapped down to there, set a sling and then set up the 300 foot
rope. I rapped about 20 feet down to the rollover and looked down to the canyon
floor. Ummm, about 280 feet below! Yikes!!! Dropping the ropebag, I rendered
my thanksgiving to Fortuna, the Goddess of Luck as the bag hit the floor of the
canyon. Down I rapped to find about 8 feet of extra rope. It is good to be
lucky.
After the others rapped down, we discovered two large branches on the floor of
the canyon at the bottom of the rappel with old slings still tied to them –
Brian and I's rappel anchors from 10 years prior.
The bottom of the canyon again was mild, mostly walking among rocks and sand and
brush, with short downclimbs, as the light faded. We walked `til we found a
couple pools and had an excellent bivy on the sand.
Morning gave us but a short stroll to the end of the canyon. We began the raps
down the final chimney, which I had remembered as being quite a few raps, all
less than 100 feet. Jenny and Ram went on ahead using the 300 foot rope, since
the stances were small for two people. Pascal and I proceeded down the inside
of the chimney, using the short ropes, and having to establish new anchors in
two places, as reality did not match my memory. We hit the ground at noon and
hiked down to our car at the Grotto.
Recommendations: It was WAY wonderful to visit a canyon of this wild character.
However, it was also pretty foolish to visit a canyon this large in scale
without a bolt kit. We lucked out twice with the 300 foot rope – the second rap
in being about 280 feet, the one to the canyon floor about 290 feet. Also,
Pascal and I started down the chimney with 170 feet of rope and pull, and on our
second rappel used every bit of it. My memory of shortish 100 foot rappels in
there was not correct. Coulda gotten hosed, close to the bottom – that would
have been embarassing. Our "Christmas Tree" near the top was far from sturdy. I
like getting away with poor decisions, but not enough to consider them good
decisions. I would recommend future parties bring the 300 foot rope, but also a
bolt kit with knowledge to use it in soft rock. A white ledge 30 feet below the
Christmas Tree would make a great place for a two-bolt anchor. The tree
anchoring our final rap into the canyon was pretty solid but it is clear that
falling debris can take out even large trees in this environment.
Tom Jones
Oct 2010
(Pictures to follow soon on Latest Rave)
