31 Attachment(s)
TR: Englestead Hollow in Zion and Shakespeare in Cedar City
On Wednesday, August 18, I paid my debt to my wife, daughter, and daughter-in-law by going with them and our Englestead crew of 6 canyoneers to a Shakespearean Festival play in Cedar City. It was prepayment for them in as much as they had agreed to hike down to the first rap in Englestead and carry our 300 foot rope back to the vehicle for us, as well as drive the vehicles back to the Visitor Center. This they did do, and it was a bargain and not too big of a sacrifice for me, as I did enjoy the play as well.
We picked up the previously reserved permit (reserved online) at the Kolob Canyon Visitor Center. After some extended confusion on the part of the ranger assisting us in regards to what we were wanting, we were able to pick up the permit.
Due to the east rim road construction, we planned on getting up early Thursday morning, August 19th and drive clear around to the east entrance, to avoid the nigh time road closures. Having stayed at a motel in Hurricane, we had planned to drive south through the sister cities of Hildale/Colorado City, on to Fredonia, Kanab and the Mount Carmel Junction. We were to then head up the North Fork Road to Englestead.
Early Thursday morning, as we got up at 4:00am, we checked the Zion Back County
web page before heading off. To our disappointment and concern, we found out from the web pages and weather report, that a Flash Flood Warning had been issued the previous evening, and was extended to approximately 12:00 noon that day (Thursday, Aug 19). While we did have an Englestead permit in hand, and even thought we had planned on going south around the park, we thought best to drive into the Springdale Visitor's Center, get in line at the BC Desk, and check out what options were available to us. Our thinking was at the time, to get in line and see if we could "exchange" our Englestead permit from that day, until the next, Friday Aug 20.
We left our Hurricane, UT motel around 5:00, and drove off to the Back Country Desk, finding there a long line of other would-be hikers doing the same thing we were. We found some who likewise had a permit in hand, but they too had heard of the Flash Flood Warnings. Others had come just to try and hike the back country that day.
After standing in line for approximately 90 minutes, two park rangers came outside just a few minutes before 7:00am and announced that the Flash Flood Warning was expected to be lifted at 8:00am that morning, but due to park policy, no back country permits could be issued for another 8 hours after that. We were all informed, therefore, that in order to get a permit for later that same day or the following day, no permits could be issued until 4:00pm at the earliest. We were also informed that the "waiting line" would start anew and those who had waited, including a gentleman who had been in line since 4:00am that morning, would have to be first come, first served at 4:00 like anyone else.
Since our group, including the girls, had been thinking about alternatives for the day, we elected to go hang out in St George for the day, and send someone back at 4:00 to try and get another permit.
Something interesting that was observed: when we crossed the Virgin at the VC bridge at 5:30 am to get in line, it looked "normal." But when we crossed back over it at 7:15 to head back to Hurricane/St George, the Virgin was a raging torrent. It was overflowing its banks in that area. We were definitely pleased with our decision NOT to head south around the park and head to Englestead, as the skies had looked clear in Hurricane that morning. And had we NOT checked the weather reports and had gone hiking anyway, since we did have the permit in hand, it potentially could have been disastrous.
We got back from our doings in St George, and phoned the BC Desk at 3:00pm. An "Eric" informed me that the Flash Flood Warning had been extended to 7:15pm, and permits could not be issued until that time. With the rest of the group heading off to Bloomington Cave back in St George, my wife and I headed back to Zion at 5:00pm to once again, for the third time, stand in line for a permit.
After a nearly three hour wait in line, we eventually picked up an Englestead permit for Friday, Aug 20th. A side note here: understanding the concern for flash flood dangers, and the warnings that preclude the issuance of permits, we did notice that the two rangers at the Back Country desk basically we sitting around from the time we arrived (5:30) until the permits became available at 7:15. I think all that they were doing during that time, was directing hikers to where the end of the line was forming. Perhaps a more efficient use of everyone's time could have been to go ahead and issue permits, with the distinct understanding that they were to be used for the NEXT day only. By then, the "8 hour" mandatory waiting period would expire overnight, and all would be well in Zion. As it was, both the rangers and the would be hikers were just sitting around killing time. But I digress. Those of you who are still reading and waiting for a trip report, here it finally comes.....
On Friday morning, August 20, my group arose at the early hour of 4:30am, left Hurricane, UT and headed south around through the Arizona Strip to come back around the east side of Zion, thus avoiding the nighttime closure of Highway 9. After a gas stop in Kanab, we were at the Englestead parking spot at 8:00am.
Having read Tom Jone's Zion's guide, we followed his trail head directions, avoiding the road maze of Zion Ponderosa. After parking two vehicles, we followed the ATV road down the hillside, passing the "camping area" and logging relict, and eventually entering the wash. Taking our time with the non-hikers in our group, we arrived at the first BIG DROP at Englestead in about 80 minutes.
The anchor was rigged, at what I believe Tom calls the "Big F tree" and we descended off from the watercourse. We totaled 6 canyoneers in all, including a 12 year old nephew. With that large of group, and in taking extra precautions with this rappel that we gave much respect, it took us about an hour total in getting everyone down.
We set up a single 300 foot rope, that was tied into the anchor tree. The first descender, my son, was top belayed for safety as his protestations against such were ignored by this overprotective father. Each subsequent descender was belayed from below. We "double" belayed the 12 year old from above and below.
I have a variety of Zion canyons that I have descended, including Behunin with a fairly high final rappel in that one, but I have to say, this first drop at Englestead was totally AWESOME! It was like an amusement park ride that just kept on going and going.
Hearing all of the "issues" with this rap, including a stern warning from the ranger who issued the permit we finally obtained, this rap received our respect. I think however, with its reputation, we prepared for it and planned for it, and it ended up instilling less "anxiety" if you will, than others. Being a father of two of the descenders, I always have that fatherly instinct to protect. This time, with all of the prep work, it felt good. I think if you are adequately prepared, you will not fear, sort of speak.
My wife, daughter and daughter-in-law pulled up the rope no problem they reported, and we were off. They did later say, that hiking back up the slope in full sun and a heavy 300 foot rope on their back, a single Shakespeare play was NOT adequate compensation. So I am still in their debt.
Even though it had rained heavily the last few days, we found Englestead to be almost totally dry. There was none, nada, zip, zero water anywhere in Englestead. The first BIG Drop had some dampness on the mossy watercourse flute, but that was really it for the entire route. Orderville was definitely another story, but Englestead was bone dry.
Our progression through the rest of Englestead was totally fun. The big fluted rappel as great. I do not know if this is the case, as our 220 foot rope did not reach the bottom, but the webbing on this fluted rap was very short around the log at the previous drop. It just barely surrounded the log. We had two options, ie extend the webbing, or add in another rope. We did so, tying it in at a point in the bowl of this two staged rap. In hindsight, it seemed "quicker" to add the other rope, where we descended the first portion, unhooked in the bowl, and re-connected for the fluted part. However, with everyone having to rig up "twice for this same rap, it probably would have been quicker just to have extended the webbing.
Orderville showed signs of having flowed with a lot of water. There were muddy pools all over. We did not see clear water until near the Guillotine and the incoming springs. Lots of mud all over. At the downclimb/rap below the Guillotine, you rap on the left side of the blocking boulder, but with the flowing water, we found that you had a great little water slide by simply downclimbing and sliding off the right side. Great fun.
The Narrows were crowded with many hikers this day. The outside temps reached over a 100 that day. But being wet from Orderville, it was very comfortable; we carried no wet suits. My 12 year old nephew had a "water ski ring" to help him "float" through portions of the narrows.
I had never done a rap as long as the entry rap here at Englestead. It was great fun. All descended safely. Its going to take a bigger payoff to the wife to do it this way again......
The girls did report that they encountered over 2 1/2 hours of delays with road construction highway 9.
Kerry
