Rappeler Survives Fall of 50 Feet in Canyon

Posted on: Tuesday, 6 May 2008, 09:00 CDT

A man rappelling in Big Cottonwood Canyon survived a fall of more than 50 feet Monday afternoon.

The 22-year-old was rappelling with friends near Storm Mountain around 4 p.m., said Salt Lake County Sheriff's Lt. Paul Jaroscak.

"He was using a two-rope system but didn't attach the second rope," Jaroscak said. "He got to the end of the first rope and went into a free-fall."

The man, who suffered a broken leg, was flown to University Hospital in serious condition, police said.


http://www.redorbit.com/news/science...eet_in_canyon/

Was also reported by KSL and on the telly the other day.

Rumor has it that he was climbing with friends and needed to bail early to go to work. Didn't notice that the middle of his rope wasn't centered for the rappel, rapped double strand, and came up short on one side.

Probably should be posted under climbing instead of canyoneering, but, making sure you're rope ends are even for a double rope rappel would apply to either sport.

-Brian in SLC

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Originally Posted by Brian in SLC

Was also reported by KSL and on the telly the other day.

Rumor has it that he was climbing with friends and needed to bail early to go to work. Didn't notice that the middle of his rope wasn't centered for the rappel, rapped double strand, and came up short on one side.

Probably should be posted under climbing instead of canyoneering, but, making sure you're rope ends are even for a double rope rappel would apply to either sport.

-Brian in SLC

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Ahhh! So the truth be told. I was trying to figure out what Double rope meant and that he didn't tie the ropes together meant!?

All the more reason to tie stopper knots in the ends of your rope BEFORE you rappel.

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Originally Posted by climbhigh1119

All the more reason to tie stopper knots in the ends of your rope BEFORE you rappel.

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All the more reason to pay attention when you rappel.

If you are using a Pirana or regular Figure 8, stopper knots don't always work. Paying attention - well, I guess when you ACTUALLY DO IT, is highly reliable.

Tom

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Originally Posted by climbhigh1119

All the more reason to tie stopper knots in the ends of your rope BEFORE you rappel.

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Hi new person :2thumbs:

Welcome!

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Originally Posted by climbhigh1119

All the more reason to tie stopper knots in the ends of your rope BEFORE you rappel.

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I've seen stopper knots come undone. Like Tom mentioned, all the more reason to pay attention to both rope ends. On a lot of terrain like where this accident occurred, the angle isn't that steep, and the terrain fairly broken. Stopper knots would tend to get the rope stuck off to the side, so, the rappeller would have to swing back and forth and try to dislodge the stuck rope ends, with a potential for more rock fall heading towards parties below. Stopper knots (I prefer a figure eight or overhand bite leaving a loop to clip into) are a good idear in some places, but, for most multi pitch rappels on lower angle terrain just aren't that useful and might be more detrimental. A rappel back up at the climber is much more useful (autoblock or the like).

Pretty sure this accident occured on the Dead Snag Arete. I hate those rappels anchors. Actually took a wrench up there with thoughts of removing it, but, instead just equalized the chain on the anchor. There's a very simple downclimb/walk off. Climbers' left (east), down a trough ramp, around a corner, to a big pine tree. From there, you can traverse climbers' left and down climb off at very easy fifth or fourth class, or, rappel from the chain anchor around the tree (single rope, around 60 or 70 feet?).

Folks that rappel have knocked rocks down, and, the base is a staging area for 4 or 5 different routes (Steorts, East Dihedrals, Jig's Up, etc).

Faster and safer to not use the three rappel anchors. Really thinking of yanking those anchors, but, maybe just remove the chains on the top one, and leave a note that directs folks to the down climb, and, rap only in an emergency (and let them leave gear on the bolt hangers)?

Great route. I try to climb it several times a season...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC