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Originally Posted by Scott Patterson
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My guess is less than 1% of folks build or use a snow cave or igloo on Denali.
My mistake and you are right and I should have said snow wall. How about this: Most people use a snow wall on Denali. True or false?
100% true! Folks that don't lose their tents.
I find a double wall, well spaced and in a tear drop shape, with the walls not too high, and plenty of room to walk around the tent and shovel, works best. A small wall out front bucking the wind works very well. Collects all the blowing snow before it hits home. Handy.
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That wasn't my point though, I was just pointing out that Denali and Utah are completely different, and so is the snow. Wouldn't you agree?
Not really. They get similar snow, in terms of the type of snow that falls. I've skied Utah powder on Denali, for example (can you say, "whoo hoo!"). I'd say every type of snow I've seen in Utah, I've seen on Denali or in the AK range. What Utah doesn't get is sustained high winds that blows the snow off to reveal bare, rock hard, glacier ice...(ok, maybe some times).
Dry, wet, with wind, wind affected, cold then warm, warm then cold, sustained exposure to cold, clear skies, Utah and AK see both.
See Tremper's book Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain for example. Bruce is from Montana, spent a significant time in AK, and has been here in Utah for a long while. He doesn't really differentiate between the different areas having different snow. Sure, the snowpack can behave in a more typical way depending on location. But, you should anticipate all types of snow conditions no matter the location.
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9800 isn't very high, but in you opinion what would it be at 11,000 feet?
It is for the central Wasatch. There's only a few, select locations above 11k here, and, most folks wouldn't put in a camp there.
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I assume way more than it would take to pitch the tent. What month did they start it?
Of course it takes longer, which is one of the downsides to building one in the first place. They start it in "early season". Ie, when there's enough snow to ski.
Ran into a gal a couple years ago that lived the entire ski season in a snow cave. Saved on rent! Hard corp!
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You may have done more many winter ascents than me, and are obviously more experienced, but I have done 145 in Utah and Colorado and I can say that I've seen many people try and dig snow caves and they couldn't pack them on several occasions. Last time was on Holy Cross last January at 11,300 feet or so. If you can pack a cave in such conditions, I will believe you, but most people can't.
Nah, you probably have bagged way more peaks than I in the winter (cool you know the number!). Way more. I mostly ice climb and ski non summit type things, and don't winter camp that much (no reason to here, access for day trips is way too easy).
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Regardless if you could pack a cave, I still think it is not worth the trouble in December or January, at least at where the snow is extra powdery.
Sure, harder to do with less than optimal snow. Takes a ton of time. Time better spent skiing, enjoying the scenery, hiking, climbing, quaiffing a beverage, quickly setting up a tent, or hiking back to the car.
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I don't know if it is a good idea to ditch the tent in stormy conditions in powdery conditions because you think you can just dig a snowcave.
The choice may not be yours! Ha ha. When your tent collapses from snow load, or, it schreds and blows away in the wind, then you'll take whatever shelter you can get. Seen a number of these kinds of data points...some personal...(lost my tent in a storm on Mount Logan in Canada).
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Squeezing between boulders or at low altitudes, under trees is a more viable alternative when the snow is extra powdery.
Sure. So's a tent, if you have one. If you don't, you might need a snow cave to stay warm enough to survive the night, depending on your situation.
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One reason that the others decided to ditch the Holy Cross ascent last January was because we had ditched the tents. After we discovered the shortage of tents (none) and with a huge storm due to arrive, most people wanted to turn back. At first someone thought we could dig a snow cave. It was tried, but quickly abandoned.
How's that go? Learn to run away and live to climb another day?
Why folks even bother to go out and test their mettle on bad weather days in the winter is beyond me. Goes for pushing on in bad conditions, too (snowshoers on Nebo comes to mind).
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Some of us had bivi sacks and my idea was that we could just squeeze between the boulders and be perfectly safe, but due to this and other reasons I was outvoted and we turned back. If we could have dug a snow cave in the powder, I bet we would have been successful on the climb and no one would have giving it a second thought
"Huge storm coming in". Hmmm. That's a tough roll of the dice. I'd have you ask my friend John, who was similarly equiped, but, he's dead. He lost. Game over for him. Wife and kids at home. Sound familiar?
[quote]Either way, my advice is still the same. At high altitudes (and sometimes lower), in Utah, and in December and January, bring a tent or bivi sack. You cannot always build a snow cave or igloo. Maybe Brian can, but I can