trouble on k2

:45 pm CDT Aug 02, 2008
(K2Climb.net) At past midnight local time, stranded climbers are spending their 3d night in the death zone of K2. Numbers of perished are stated as high as 7 in various international media, however only one fatal accident has so far been confirmed.

Marco Confortola has been located in camp 4, where he is cared for by high altitude staff. Today, a climber in an orange suit has reportedly been spotted moving slowly between C4 and C3 on the Cesen route. Cas and Pemba are moving down from C4 and will try to catch up with him.

A satphone call made yesterday from the peak by Wilco was tracked via a GPS position acquired from Thuraya. The position put Wilco's call to between camp 4 and camp 3 on the mountain.

The Norit website crashed but a mirror site has been set up for updates. The stranded climbers are too high up for an aerial rescue. Helicopter rescues can be made of climbers from camp 2 and below, and an aerial sweep of the mountain could help as well. Teams are coordinating such efforts with the local tour operators.

Unlocated at this point are Dutch Wilco, Irish Gerard, French Hugues, Norwegian Rolf Bae, several un-named Koreans and high altitude porters. A group of unknown climbers are still reported stuck in the bottleneck. In position for a rescue attempt (camp 4 and above) in the Bottleneck are reportedly Korean climbers and a number of high altitude staff.

Confirmed dead: Serb climber Dren Mandic (Vojvodjanska Expedition) in a fall on the Bottleneck during the August 1 summit push.

Latest tentative location details compiled from several international reports and the Dutch Norit home team:

Bottleneck: 6 climbers were spotted motionless in the area yesterday. 2 high altitude porters were reportedly headed up to the group, who appeared to have suffered an injury to one of the climbers. Identities of these climbers in the section is unknown, but they are likely some of the yet unlocated Gerard, Hugues, Rolf Bae, Korean climbers and high altitude porters.

In camp 4: Marco Confortola. Un-named Sherpas and Pakistan high-altitude porters, possibly second Korean climbing team.

Between camp 4 and camp 3, descending: Unknown climber in orange suit, Cas and Pemba.

Between Camp 3 to BC, in camps or descending on both routes: Cecilie Skog and two Norwegians, Singapore expedition, Mike Farris-led international team, Serbian Vojvodjanska Expedition, Mark Sheen, Jelle, Sunny Expeditions (Gheorghe Dijmarescu).

Wrap-up of events

On August 1 at 1 am local time, Norwegian, Dutch, French, Italian, Serbian, Korean, Pakistan and Nepali climbers started their summit push from camp 4. Going well ahead of schedule, a few hours into the ascent a Serbian accident held the Dutch up somewhat.

The Norwegians and French Hugues d

sounds like another day on the most dangerous mountain on the planet. tough break having to bivy in those conditions. good luck to all of them.

MSNBC has the death toll at 9.
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25995028/
While K2climb.net and Norit seem to have the number down from that.

Everyone seems pretty amazed that Dutch climber Wilco Van Rooijen has survived 3 nights exposed above camp three and is now making his way down under his own power!
http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17459

Climber: 11 killed after avalanche on Pakistan's K2
CNN

Eleven climbers died on Pakistan's K2 mountain after an ice avalanche knocked down a fixed rope climbers were using to reach the summit, a mountaineer at their base camp said Sunday.

Pakistan's K2 is the second highest peak in the world.


Among the dead was a sherpa who had gone up K2 -- the world's second tallest mountain -- to help in rescue efforts, said mountaineer Fredrik Strang, who also assisted in the rescue attempts.

The deaths happened after 17 climbers, in different expeditions from around the world, had come together to make it to K2's peak on Friday, said Pat Falvey, a climber in Ireland who was in touch with some of the 17.

As the 17 were descending early Saturday, a "moving river of ice broke loose ... like an iceberg breaking loose from a glacier," knocking down the fixed rope the group had been using to move from higher reaches to a camp at a lower altitude, Falvey said.

The rope's collapse caused three climbers to fall to their deaths, said Falvey, who was posting online updates for one of the expeditions. iReport.com: Are you a mountain climber? Ever attempt K2?

Two climbers decided to go on and managed to return to base camp, but the rest decided to wait and hope rescuers could reach them, Falvey said.

The avalanche had created "icy, dangerous conditions" on the slope, Falvey said. As time went on and rescuers didn't come, the remaining climbers decided to continue their descent, but some of them fell to their deaths in the mountain's "bottleneck" area, Falvey said.

The rest eventually were helped down by rescuers, Falvey and Strang said. Falvey and Strang said the survivors told them what had happened but were not immediately in condition to speak publicly.

Among the killed climbers were Dutch, Irish, Italian, French, Norwegian, Korean, and Nepalese citizens, Falvey said.

One of the killed was Irish climber Gerard McDonnell, Falvey said.

The bodies of the 11 may never be recovered, but rescuers and the mountaineers who made it down are certain the 11 are dead, Strang said.

The site of the accidents, about 5 miles up the mountain, is what climbers call the "Dead Zone" because the body would never recover if stuck in such freezing conditions with so little oxygen, Falvey said.

Strang said Sunday the death toll was not expected to rise, because no one else was believed to be missing.

Strang said the deaths could have been avoided. Too many people were climbing together "at a very slow speed" and should have begun their descent sooner, he said.

"Coming down at dawn, in the dark, with little oxygen is very, very dangerous," he said.

Though K2 is the world's second-highest mountain, many climbers consider it more technically challenging than Mount Everest, the world's highest peak.

Statistics compiled by AdventureStats.com suggest this was the deadliest incident at K2. The site says 66 people -- not counting those in the latest incident -- have died on the mountain since 1939.

A chart compiled by viewfinderpanoramas.org lists 284 climbers as having ever reached the summit of K2.

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Originally Posted by denaliguide

sounds like another day on the most dangerous mountain on the planet.

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or not ... considering 11 climbers are dead, this sounds like one of the mountain's deadliest days on record.

but i guess it's NOT definitive yet that 11 people have died.

http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17462

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sounds like another day on the most dangerous mountain on the planet.

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K2 is a dangerous mountain, but I wonder what criteria would be used to call it the most dangerous mountain in the world? :ne_nau: Other mountains have seen much more deaths by number and other mountains have higher death rates.

Anyway, sad news. K2 is an unforgiving place.

stats say 46% of those attempting k2 don't come back. everyday on k2 is a risk. 7 dead or 11 dead, doesn't really matter. still a tragedy. those who chose to attempt k2 realize and accept the risks. trusting that they will be one of those who make it. unfortunately skill and judgement aren't always enough to keep you safe from objective hazards in the mountains.

so, everyday on k2 is one fraught with danger and the possibility that you will not make it back to your tent that night.


my heart goes out to the families of those who died.

scott , find me one thats higher than 46%



http://people.bath.ac.uk/cwn20/dangers.htm

Introduction: Natural Hazards

K2 is notoriously rated the most dangerous mountain on earth. It is a solid limestone ice-tower with hundreds of lethal obstacles. As oppossed to its bigger sister Everest, porters rarely help climbers move equipment up to their respective bases, because they know that even the trip to base-camp raises life-threatening tasks. All the equipment must thus be taken up by the climbers, posing a near impossible job given that each team has tons of equipment, and that most of the climb is near if not vertical ice.

Compared to Everest, K2 is a much more difficult climb, although with a slightly lower alltitude. Typically, climbers wait a whole year to climb Everest during its '2 to 5' day window of decent weather during the spring season, whereas K2 has no such window of opportunity, and it is almost impossible to climb withought being caught in life-thratening weather. The best months would be, June, July and August.

Climatologists explain K2's bizarre weather: "The sudden storms are caused in part because the peak is so much higher than the mountains around it -- it juts up into the upper layers of the atmosphere and like a rock in a river can create eddies in the jet stream, with good weather on one side of the mountain, and life-threatening conditions on the other."

The most dangerous asset of K2 is it's natural hazards. These include:

Avalanches
Snow storms
Micro melting on ice surface
Snow land-Slides







Statistics

The following list of statistics was provided in February, 2001 by Xavier Eguskitza, the renowned Basque chronicler of Himalayan climbing. Although K2 is listed 3rd in the rank of danger, this is factoring in the total number of deaths. In other words the number of deaths is lower than other mountains, because few have attempted it, but of the few, the percentage of deaths is significantly higher than any mountain in the world.

It is said that if you were to summit K2 with a climbing partner, it is best to say your farewells well ahead the descent, because the statistics claim that one of the two will not come back alive. 46% of the attempts end in death.

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stats say 46% of those attempting k2 don't come back.

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Actually that

check out this site.

http://www.mounteverest.net/story/st...ep242003.shtml


Whilst the old Everest risk was 37% and Annapurna

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check out this site.

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Yes, I know the site very well and have visited it often. It is a good source.

http://www.mounteverest.net/story/st...ep242003.shtml

[quote]Whilst the old Everest risk was 37% and Annapurna

(CNN) -- Two Dutch climbers who survived a deadly ice avalanche on K2, the world's second highest mountain on the Pakistan-China border, were airlifted to a Pakistani hospital on Monday, the team's spokesman told CNN.

Twenty-two climbers, mostly foreigners, reached K-2's summit Friday before a deadly avalanche struck.

The two survivors, Norit expedition leader Wilco Van Rooijen and Cas Van de Gevel, had been "stuck up high on the mountain" since the avalanche on Friday, team spokesman Michel Schuurman said.

The tragedy left 11 climbers dead, including a sherpa who had gone up to assist in rescue efforts, according to mountaineers working with the climbers involved.

The two Dutchmen, who arrived at base camp on Saturday, were flown to a military hospital in Skardu, Pakistan on Monday, the country's Ministry of Tourism secretary said.

According to a Web log offering frequent updates on the rescue effort, Van Rooijen -- an accomplished climber who has scaled Mt. Everest without supplementary oxygen -- may be suffering from frostbite "and is not out of danger yet."

"Still, this survival is bound to go down as one of the greatest mountaineering tales in K2's history," K2climb.net said. More about the dangers of climbing K2

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