Bogley

[jumar]

Repost?

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=148&sid=6716541


Utah teen becomes one of youngest to climb Everest
June 4th, 2009 @ 10:12pm
By John Hollenhorst

SALT LAKE CITY -- A Utah teenager has returned from Asia after a brutally exhausting experience, and he just loved it. With the exception of a Sherpa boy, he's the youngest person ever to reach the top of Mount Everest.

Johnny Collinson lives at Snowbird, where his parents work. His family waited at home the last couple of months he followed a dream he's had for 10 of his 17 years.

"It's the highest mountain, the highest place on Earth," Collinson said. "Since it's the highest, it would seem like the most challenging."

The day he flew to Asia he turned 17. Sherpas on Mt. Everest were skeptical of such a youthful climber. "They weren't sure what to expect of me, but they saw that I was really strong so I got the nickname 'The White Sherpa,'" Collinson said.

At his age, most kids are dreaming about the junior prom or worrying about schoolwork.

"I'm taking independent study classes from BYU, so I was doing homework at base camp," Collinson said. "I was super happy to be, like, every day, moving closer and closer to my goal."

The hardest part was pushing himself to get started each morning. On summit day, it was 40 below zero. "It was so cold that my feet were getting really cold, but I knew if I stuck it out until the sun came up, that I could make it," he said.

After weeks on the mountain Collinson achieved the goal he set two-thirds of his life ago.

"It was amazing. You could look around and everything is below you. You can actually see that the earth is curved," he said. "It was overwhelming how happy I was getting up there."

Collinson continued, "I've always been able to push myself, so it feels good after a hard climb and you make it."

The top of the world may seem like the limit to where a person can go, but Collinson's parents aren't thinking of it that way. They say the whole message is that kids should follow their passions and never set limits.

Collinson does have higher ambitions. By the end of this year, he expects to become the youngest person ever to climb the highest peak on each of the seven continents. He's two down and five to go, and he's raising money through his Web site, JohnnyCollinson.com.

[trackrunner]

His climb along with Apa Sherpa of Draper was talked about in this thread

http://www.bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17141

[Brian in SLC]

Pretty cool a young feller is doing this stuff, as opposed to playin' video games etc.

Surfed his site a bit. His costs are kinda strange for some stuff.

"Denali
(20,320ft/6,195m) North America
Trip Dates: June 13 - July 7 (Ski Trip) 2009
Land Cost: $5,500"

Land cost of 5500?

Not to get down on him too much, for sure, but, that must mean he's a client and not a climber. Which is fine.

Here's the approximate per person land costs of a Denali climb (not counting the airfare to get there, which, a friend just did for around a 100 bucks from SLC to ANC):

Shuttle to Talkeetna: 140.
Permit for Denali: 200.
Flight in: 560.
Food/fuel (guess): 200.

As a base cost, that's pretty much it.

Anyhoo, must be guided. Which, is ok. When he's raising funds, though, folks should realize they're paying for a guide, and, that's the bulk of the cost.

I dunno. Maybe what the news should report is "youngest Western client summits Everest".

Met brothers on Denali a few years back. One was 16 or 17, at the most. He was the expedition leader for his older brother. Sewed all their clothes himself. Put together their own food and gear. Totally had their rig dialed and they (and he) were way more competant than most of the folks up there. No guide. Amazing. Travis Strawn.

Anyhoo, they were killed on a route we'd backed off from the previous season... Sad deal. Three brothers.

http://www.juneauempire.com/stories/062002/sta_brothers.shtml

Anyhoo...sorry for the digression/buzzkill...

-Brian in SLC

[Scott Card]

Brian, this is an honest question. How does it make it less of an achievement to summit Everest as a "client" as opposed to a climber? I don't get the distinction since I am not a climber. I promise, I am not trying to troll but understand the distinction.

[Brian in SLC]

Scott Card wrote: Brian, this is an honest question. How does it make it less of an achievement to summit Everest as a "client" as opposed to a climber? I don't get the distinction since I am not a climber. I promise, I am not trying to troll but understand the distinction.

Maybe a fishing comparison?

You go fishing. You pick the spot. You assess the river, the current, the flow, the conditions. You unpack and load up your boat. You prep your gear. You cast the line. You hook the fish. You land it.

With a guide, most of the above is done for you. You might still reel in that fish, and, it might be a trophy, but, the experience is different than if you'd done it all yourself. You get a big fish to show off, but, are you really a fisherman? Give a man a fish. Teach a man to fish.

Climbing is pretty similar.

As far as worthy achievements go, and, stuff that is actually newsworthy, these Everest climbs get a lot of ink. But, really, Everest has been climbed, what, over a 1000 times by young and old, and, some folks many many times. Back in the 50's, it was a world class event when Everest was climbed. Now? I don't mean to overly denigrate the experience, but, its not the big deal it used to be. Heck, if you saw that reality show on Discovery a season or two ago, even run-of-the-mill folks are gettin' on it. And, that's ok.

Its just interesting to me that folks have websites and are soliciting contributions so they can go on guided trips. Seems kinda weird, like, you're funding their vacation with a guide. If it was sans guide, then, ok, that'd be something.

A few of us "climbers" grouch a bit about this type of stuff, mostly jealous I suppose (ha ha!). We call it the "cocktail sheik" crowd. Like, when your at a cocktail party and you can spray about what you climbed, some, big ticket deal. But, the back story is maybe you were guided and really, folks don't seem to give that as much attention.

Style. For most climbers, especially "lifers", style matters. To some, a lot.

Full assumption of risk and responsibility. Or not. Two very different things, IMHO.

I dunno. I'd guess for some folks there's a risk component to their recreation that they aren't willing to fully assume themselves. And/or, logistics. And, there's a guide market ready to accomodate. Makes sense.

Great question, really. Its kind of the essence of why some of us climb, and, some are "clients". A team, B team, C team. Etc etc etc.

Does that make sense?

-Brian in SLC

[Deeps]

Don't forget the blind guy that climbed Everest that was all over those inspirational billboards.

[Brian in SLC]

Deeps wrote: Don't forget the blind guy that climbed Everest that was all over those inspirational billboards.

Erik's a nice guy (ate dinner with him in SLC a few years ago, and, ran into him on his failed attempt on Aconcagua).

Was funny, at dinner, a few of us were invited as local climbers, and, we were settin' at one end of the table. Erik and his more ardent fans were at the other end. Was some kind of Tibet deal, I can't recall their conversation. We got kinda bored, and, were talkin' about some of the local rock climbing, amongst ourselves, just kinda quietly tradin' some beta and who'd been up to what. That dude has great hearing. I was keepin' an eye on him (ha ha), and, I could see him kinda perkin' up a bit. Pretty soon, he ignored all the fans and came over and sat down right in the middle of us. "Hey, you guys are climbers. I hear Little Cottonwood is pretty awesome."

Yeah, he's a climber. Lead climbs ice and rock on his own. Sure, used guides to help summit all those peaks, but, I guess I'd cut him a bit of slack on that. His description of being able to tell when he's on the top of a mountain, by senses other than seeing, is pretty amazing.

And, his shows are pretty inspirational.

-Brian in SLC

[Deeps]

That's really cool, Brian.

I know little / nothing of Erik outside of the billboards. My reaction to them is muddy because of the campaign itself and my own personal visual pollution outrage about the number of, placement of, and general content of billboards in northern Utah, especially around 600 S.

And this is from a guy who works in advertising / marketing. Go figure, right?

[Scott Card]

Brian in SLC wrote:

Does that make sense?

-Brian in SLC Makes sense. In canyoneering, There is a difference between those who explore, those who lead and those who are along for the ride. There is even a difference in leading Pine Creek and doing Pine Creek.

Thanks. :2thumbs:

[Scott P]

Quote: You go fishing. You pick the spot. You assess the river, the current, the flow, the conditions. You unpack and load up your boat. You prep your gear. You cast the line. You hook the fish. You land it.

When the canyon is bolted, most of the above is done for you. You might still reel in that fish, and, it might be a trophy, but, the experience is different than if you'd done it all yourself. You get a big fish to show off, but, are you really a fisherman? Give a man a fish. Teach a man to fish.

Cool. I just changed a couple words and the analogy is perfect. :2thumbs:

In a way, the same quote could be applied to using any type of aids (porters, bolts, guides, seige tactics, huts, etc.), depending on the style of "purism" on uses.

Now back to the real topic.

Anyway, most of my climbs have been unguided, but I have taken guides on some occasions. I agree that independant is more rewarding (In my opinion at least). Going guided takes out of the planning process, decision making, route finding, etc.

On the other hand, with or without guides, Everest still isn't easy and climbing it at 17 is quite the accomplishment.

Quote: But, really, Everest has been climbed, what, over a 1000 times by young and old, and, some folks many many times.

Actually the number is over 4000 now.

Quote: Back in the 50's, it was a world class event when Everest was climbed. Now? I don't mean to overly denigrate the experience, but, its not the big deal it used to be.

Agreed, but the same process isn't unique to Everest. I believe it was Mummery whom first said that climbs go through a process. I don't remember the exact phrases, but it goes something like this:

First is "inaccessible". Second is "hardest climb in the Alps" [or any other range]. Third is "easy day for a lady".

While Everest and other mountains may not be "an easy day for a lady" of course mountains do go through phases of percieved difficulty or "specialness". Indeed the same can be said for Mont Blanc in the late 1700's, Matterhorn in the 1800's, Everest in the 1950's, etc. K2 has even begun to have guided trips:

http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=308&type=onlinenews

In 50 years, even something like K2 will surely not be the accomplishment that it is now.

Of course, new challenges will be opened up as well. Despite the crowds on Everest, the vast majority of them are confined to the two standard routes and to a few weeks/months a year. All other ridges, faces and seasons stand almost silent. Many of th eroutes on Everest have either never been repeated or if they have, only a few times. The Nuptse-Lhotse-Everest traverse is still waiting for future generations.

Even so, Everest at 17 is still an accomplishment, at least for the majority of the population.

[Brian in SLC]

Scott P wrote: Agreed, but the same process isn't unique to Everest. I believe it was Mummery whom first said that climbs go through a process. I don't remember the exact phrases, but it goes something like this:

First is "inaccessible". Second is "hardest climb in the Alps" [or any other range]. Third is "easy day for a lady".

"It has frequently been noticed that all mountains appear doomed to pass through the three stages: An inaccessible peak - The most difficult ascent in the Alps - An easy day for a lady."

– Albert Frederick Mummery, My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus

Got to see the famous (or "infamous" depending on who you ask!) Mummery ice axe in a museum in the Ecrins in France last year. Mummery had climbed some French peak (Grands Charmoz) and had left his ice axe on the summit, with a reward posted for anyone good enough to retrieve it. Was retrieved the next season by a French climber, who, tried to get Mummery to pay up (so the story goes). Anyhoo, they had a disagreement about the bet, and, as they say, Mummery kept his money and his ice axe stayed in France. Too funny.

Scott P wrote: While Everest and other mountains may not be "an easy day for a lady" of course mountains do go through phases of percieved difficulty or "specialness". Indeed the same can be said for Mont Blanc in the late 1700's, Matterhorn in the 1800's, Everest in the 1950's, etc. K2 has even begun to have guided trips:

http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=308&type=onlinenews

In 50 years, even something like K2 will surely not be the accomplishment that it is now.

Even so, Everest at 17 is still an accomplishment, at least for the majority of the population.

Good, and, interesting thoughts, Scott.

Some of the issue is, that, the majority of the population, especially in the U.S., doesn't really "know" climbing, or, much about it. A bit different in Europe, methinks, where it's so much more a part of the culture. One kinda cool example was last year I got a house rental confirmation and contract from Grenoble, France, and, the post office mark said "Lionel Terray". Pretty cool. And, kids and their parents, schoolmates, etc commonly climb over there, and, know who their climbing "heros" are.

Got a kick out of someone posting on the supertopo website recently, about advice for climbing the 7 Summits, and, this response:

"...please. please don't embark on that over-hyped, ego driven b.s. It's possible to climb the Seven Summits and not have the skill to lead Snake Dike. Dick Bass, author of "The Seven Summits" once proudly told me that he didn't even know how to tie a knot- I guess the guide did it for him. The press keeps referring to people on the trade routes on Everest, Denali, Vinson et al as "climbers" and most of them are anything but. Hone your skills and do some real climbing.
Jim Donini"

Who knows? Maybe in the future impressive ascents, guideless, without oxygen, will again become more news worthy.

My bet is that K2 will remain a coveted ascent for longer than 50 years...!

Yeah, its an accomplishment, to be sure, for anyone to climb Everest. But, its become very commonplace to be guided up and use oxygen, fixed ropes, fixed camps, etc. Its just not that news worthy, IMHO, when other more impressive ascents are being done out there by super talented and motivated climbers.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[moab mark]

Total noob question, had a guy from Bountiful come and give a fireside on climbing Everest. He had just done it. I got the impression from him it isn't really climbing but a really miserable hike? When does something become climbing and not hiking on these big peaks. I understand climbing etc in LLC but big peaks. Or is climbing just the term used? On a side note his training program was to hike the foothills above the temple in Bountiful to the top and back every day rain or snow for one year.

Mark

[Scott P]

Quote: "It has frequently been noticed that all mountains appear doomed to pass through the three stages: An inaccessible peak - The most difficult ascent in the Alps - An easy day for a lady."

– Albert Frederick Mummery, My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus

Yes, that is the one. I've been reading a few book on Mummery. Seems he really underestimated Nanga Parbat!

Quote: A bit different in Europe, methinks, where it's so much more a part of the culture.

And history. It seems that many of the routes were put up by traders, shepards or even to move troops during war.

Quote: Who knows? Maybe in the future impressive ascents, guideless, without oxygen, will again become more news worthy.

Most of the stories concerning climbing now days are printed because someone dies. For example, K2 made big news last year, but only because of the deaths. If someone made a first ascent of a first line, the media probably wouldn't be interested.

Quote: My bet is that K2 will remain a coveted ascent for longer than 50 years...!

Coveted, yes, but perhaps a bit more tame and commonplace. I wonder if the Everest pioneers in 1953 could have forseen what would happen 50 years later.

Quote: Its just not that news worthy, IMHO, when other more impressive ascents are being done out there by super talented and motivated climbers.

True, but unless someone is the oldest, youngest, or has an unusual quality or deaths are involved, the media won't care much. Even some of the climbing magazines/books, etc have somewhat gone the same way.

I've read a lot of books/magaizine stories from the 70's or 80's on peaks like Shivling, Laila, Brehma, Masherbrum, etc. Not many stories/articles seem to mention such peaks any more. Now days it seems most people are interested more in numbers only (i.e. 8000 meter peaks) and big names (Everest, K2, etc.). I have and can find plenty of books on the history of the 8000 peaks, but the books on the history of the Sixers or Sevens seen harder to find. I wish I could find more on them.

Quote: I got the impression from him it isn't really climbing but a really miserable hike?

If the mountain weren't modified (i.e. ladders and fixed ropes), it would actually have some pitches that are quite technical, even on the two standard routes. Even with fixed ropes though, I don't think it would still called a "hike" though.

Anyway, I do know or have talked to several people who have climbed it (with or without guides) and none said it was easy. No mountain close to that high can be considered easy, at least not physically.

[Brian in SLC]

Scott P wrote: I've read a lot of books/magaizine stories from the 70's or 80's on peaks like Shivling, Laila, Brehma, Masherbrum, etc. Not many stories/articles seem to mention such peaks any more. Now days it seems most people are interested more in numbers only (i.e. 8000 meter peaks) and big names (Everest, K2, etc.). I have and can find plenty of books on the history of the 8000 peaks, but the books on the history of the Sixers or Sevens seen harder to find. I wish I could find more on them.

Welllllll....

https://www.americanalpineclub.org/joinnow

Join up and I'll send a few back issues of the journal...tons of stories in there about new routes on these "off the radar" peaks.

There's a bunch of book titles out there. Himalaya Alpine Style. Heroic Climbs: A Celebration of World Mountaineering. World Mountaineering. Etc.

Note that if you join the AAC, the library is at your beckoning call. They'll ship you books for free, all you have to do is pay return postage.

The ulitmate resource on 7000m peaks in the Himalaya is a book called, "High Asia" by Jill Neate. Harder to find, but, the bibliography is superb.

As far as "climbing" versus "hiking" big peaks, yeah, there's a bunch of different kinds of climbing. Big tree, many branches. Aconcagua, for example, by the standard route, is mostly a dirt trail all the way up and its beem mountain biked and climbed by a dog, etc. Fairly easy, by "climbing" standards. But, still considered "climbing" by some, even though its not "technical". Its all good.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC