Bogley

Strieby · Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 13

Next May I am going to France with a friend to do some history research. We will be in archives for the better part of ten days but after that we are going climbing. We don't have much time so I want to hit some good spots. I prefere bouldering but it will be difficult to get a pad there so sport climbing is great. Any suggestions? We've looked seriously at Beoux since it will be close to Aix where we are staying, but we are willing to travel to get good climbing in.

Brian in SLC · Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 705

Ask again in about 2 months...

Depends on what grades you're climbing at, methinks. I've heard Buoex (sp?) is a touch harder and not as fun if you're in the, say, 6c and below grades.

You might pick up a copy of Falcon's Rockclimbing Europe by Stewart Green. Covers the French thing pretty well. There's also a Brit book called "French Rock" that has a ton of beta especially near the Aix area.

Other heavy hitters would be Ceuse, Orpierre, Sisteron, Verdon Gorge, Presles, etc etc. You can't swing a baguette without hitting a climbing crag over there.

Not sure if the Calanques area will be open or not during May. Some stuff might be kinda hot, too.

Also, check out some of the Brit rock climbing forums. Mucho beta.

There's an international canyon/caving rendezvous over in the Vercors area in late August that a bunch of us are going to. We'll have a bit better beta after that, but, might depend more on what you like to climb (grade, style, etc).

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

ststephen · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 250 Location: Felton, CA

If you have any specific questions about the Calanque or any areas in the southern alps near Marseille shot them to me and I'll forward to some good friends of mine who live there. They are older folks like me, but are still very connected in the climbing community of the area.

What a beautiful spot the Calanque is. We did a family day hike there a couple summers ago. It was hot, HOT but then you get to swim in that blue water.

Plus the women all go topless :naughty:

Brian in SLC · Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 705

ststephen wrote: If you have any specific questions about the Calanque or any areas in the southern alps near Marseille shot them to me and I'll forward to some good friends of mine who live there. They are older folks like me, but are still very connected in the climbing community of the area.

Well, ok then...

Be great to get some beta on the Marseille area, especially from long time local climbers. I’d be interested in knowing of some of the classic routes in the following areas. Primarily interested in multi pitch routes up to around 6a obl in difficulty. Only able to climb in the area for around a week, so, that’s the time limit.

Sainte-Baume

Mont Sainte Victoire
Le Grand Parcours
La Croix de Provence
Saint Ser

Calanque:

CALANQUE D'EN-VAU
La Grande Aiguille
La Petite Aiguille

La Grande Candelle
Arete de Marseille

Sormiou

Also, would like any lodging tips for the area too. I’d like to stay in the Gemenos area, and, a small apartment or kitchenette would be best if possible. A rural gite would work as well.

Any info appreciated!

-Brian in SLC

ststephen · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 250 Location: Felton, CA

OK. No guarantees, but I sent a quick email asking about the three areas you mention and general tips for cheap climber-friendly lodging. If I get a response I'll follow up.