Iceaxe
03-20-2019, 08:14 AM
Just a heads up... I'm told the bolts at the final rappel of Rock of Ages have been removed. The final rappel can by bypassed by walking the canyon rim to the south (left) if you find anchoring the current rappel beyond your skill level.
FWIW - These were the original bolts under the ledge and the best anchor IMHO. These bolts were chopped about 10 years ago.
http://climb-utah.com/Moab/Files/rockofages10.jpg
These were the shitty "Lean Too" bolts that were recently chopped. It doesn't really hurt my feelings if this dangerous anchor was chopped as sooner or later someone was going to take flying lessons because of that anchor. Although whomever did the chopping did a crappy job and left a mess.
92226
I did receive the following info from Crystal Muzik, but I'm a bit confused by exactly what she is telling me. If it makes sense to one of you please explain it to me.
There was a thread on the Facebook Group, Moab Rock Climbers, posted on March 15th . -There’s already some misinformation on this thread and there’s bound to be more, so here are some facts regarding the Pool Arch anchors.
1. The new higher bolted anchor at the last rappel and the new bolted anchor for the dead tree pool bypass were placed illegally (WSA) and were on the BLM’s radar for removal.
2. I guided the canyon March 8 and the flat bolt (that was used to get to the lower anchor) and the lower anchor had been chopped. There was a long rope piece left at the new higher anchor to extend past the grooves.
3. The new anchor at the last rappel was chopped yesterday. I have confirmed that none of the bolts were removed by the BLM or by the owner of Cliffs and Canyons.
4. Please continue to practice a leave no trace ethic in the canyon and abide by all laws pertaining to the wilderness study area.
:popcorn:
FWIW - These were the original bolts under the ledge and the best anchor IMHO. These bolts were chopped about 10 years ago.
http://climb-utah.com/Moab/Files/rockofages10.jpg
These were the shitty "Lean Too" bolts that were recently chopped. It doesn't really hurt my feelings if this dangerous anchor was chopped as sooner or later someone was going to take flying lessons because of that anchor. Although whomever did the chopping did a crappy job and left a mess.
92226
I did receive the following info from Crystal Muzik, but I'm a bit confused by exactly what she is telling me. If it makes sense to one of you please explain it to me.
There was a thread on the Facebook Group, Moab Rock Climbers, posted on March 15th . -There’s already some misinformation on this thread and there’s bound to be more, so here are some facts regarding the Pool Arch anchors.
1. The new higher bolted anchor at the last rappel and the new bolted anchor for the dead tree pool bypass were placed illegally (WSA) and were on the BLM’s radar for removal.
2. I guided the canyon March 8 and the flat bolt (that was used to get to the lower anchor) and the lower anchor had been chopped. There was a long rope piece left at the new higher anchor to extend past the grooves.
3. The new anchor at the last rappel was chopped yesterday. I have confirmed that none of the bolts were removed by the BLM or by the owner of Cliffs and Canyons.
4. Please continue to practice a leave no trace ethic in the canyon and abide by all laws pertaining to the wilderness study area.
:popcorn: