Best introductory canyons for the Swell

[Cameron]

Hey all, I'm looking for some recommendations on which canyons to start with in the Swell. I've done a lot of the classics in Zion including Imlay, and I've done some canyons in Moab, but I've never done anything in the Swell. I understand that things can be very different outside of the trade routes in Zion, so I'm looking for something that I'm not going to get in over my head with. I have a background in climbing and I would consider my natural anchor building to be intermediate. Thanks!

[jman]

Hey all, I'm looking for some recommendations on which canyons to start with in the Swell. I've done a lot of the classics in Zion including Imlay, and I've done some canyons in Moab, but I've never done anything in the Swell. I understand that things can be very different outside of the trade routes in Zion, so I'm looking for something that I'm not going to get in over my head with. I have a background in climbing and I would consider my natural anchor building to be intermediate. Thanks!

The Squeeze in my opinion is the probably the most fun (and hardest) one in the swell.

Zero G is a classic. Eardley (with shortcut route) is a fun water park although not too technical. It’s more of a fun adventure.

Knotted Rope is another wet classic, and Quandary is similar to KR but is more technical and contains harder potholes to escape.

Out of those, the Squeeze could be over your head, but then again you have mentioned you have done Imlay...

While not a true canyoneering adventure, I really enjoyed the Upper Black Box. It had one rap of 120+ ft, while following the San Rafael river for a couple miles. It was a fun short adventure.



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[Iceaxe]

Baptist Draw, Quandary and Knotted Rope are often were most people start and are all in the same general area of Hidden Splendor Mine.

If starting on the eastern side Zero Gravity, Goblins Lair and Eardley are all fairly close together. Little Wild Horse is also close by, and although it's only a hike, it should be done for the simple reason it's a major classic.

In the northern Swell both the Upper and Lower Black Box are uniquely enjoyable.

[Iceaxe]

while not a true canyoneering adventure, I really enjoyed the Lower Black Box. It had one rap of 120+ ft, while following the San Rafael river for a couple miles. It was a fun short adventure.

You totally lost me here... as the Lower Black Box has no rappel. And while not the classic Colorado Pleateau slot canyon both the Upper and Lower Box easily qualify as canyoneering, just more in the flavor of what the rest of the world calls canyoning.

[jman]

You totally lost me here... as the Lower Black Box has no rappel. And while not the classic Colorado Pleateau slot canyon both the Upper and Lower Box easily qualify as canyoneering, just more in the flavor of what the rest of the world calls canyoning.

Whoops, yes my mistake. Upper is the one I was referring to.



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[Cameron]

Cool, thanks guys. I was thinking Knotted Rope and Quandary. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something since the grades are so broad (everyone keeps saying The Squeeze is the hardest canyon, but only a 3?). I'll look into the other ones that you mentioned too.

[rockgremlin]

You totally lost me here... as the Lower Black Box has no rappel. And while not the classic Colorado Pleateau slot canyon both the Upper and Lower Box easily qualify as canyoneering, just more in the flavor of what the rest of the world calls canyoning.


I used to have an old San Rafael Swell hiking guidebook that claimed you could hike the entirety of the Upper Black Box from Swinging Bridge down to Swazey's Leap in a day. If so, you effectively avoid all rappels -- with the exception of that short drop within the watercourse that's more like a 10' handline down. But THAT -- is a very long day. More like two days IMO. The standard route as published in Climb-Utah is definitely the recommended route -- even though it has a 140' rappel, it cuts to the heart of the best stuff in the Upper BB without the 2 day slog.

[rockgremlin]

Cool, thanks guys. I was thinking Knotted Rope and Quandary. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something since the grades are so broad (everyone keeps saying The Squeeze is the hardest canyon, but only a 3?). I'll look into the other ones that you mentioned too.

Quandary is considered by some to be more difficult than The Squeeze. That might depend on water conditions within Quandary. When the potholes are at less than half capacity, you're in for a challenge, and you'd better be sharp with pothole escape techniques. More than 2 people in your group is definitely recommended.

[ratagonia]

Quandary is considered by some to be more difficult than The Squeeze. That might depend on water conditions within Quandary. When the potholes are at less than half capacity, you're in for a challenge, and you'd better be sharp with pothole escape techniques. More than 2 people in your group is definitely recommended.

Both canyons would be a 4 in my book, if I had a book, because they involve pothole escapes. While there are more pothole escapes in Quandary Direct ("QD"), they yield easily to the Pack Toss technique. Assuming you know the basics of Pack Toss Technique like, throw your partner's pack, not your own; throw before you go down into the pothole; you might need to throw 2 or 3 or 4 things; etc. Pot Shots work better for this.

The Potholes in The Squeeze... there are only two. One is pretty easy as it is small, yields easily to a boost if nothing else. The other is difficult, as in considerably more difficult than any in QD. You WILL need to throw 2 or 3 or 4 things there. Assuming you aren't up for the cheater method of climbing around it. Which you shouldn't because dealing with the pothole as a pothole is a good challenge and more fun.

Knotted Rope and Quandary Direct make for a great weekend down there, especially if they have water in them... which they probably don't.

Tom

[TommyBoy]

Knotted Rope and Quandary Direct make for a great weekend down there, especially if they have water in them... which they probably don't.

Tom

Austin Farnworth posted on FB about his trip Saturday through Quandary, the water in the first pothole in the direct section was only waist deep and he said it only got drier from there.

[Iceaxe]

My 2 cents....

The potholes in Quandary are not an issue provided you are not solo and have a little commonsense. I compare it to the pothole in Middle Echo. They can sometimes be hard, depending on water, but you always figure out how to defeat them.

The big pothole at the start of Knotted Rope is the one that has claimed a life, but if you can't defeat it you just turn around and hike out and come to play another day. You can also just climb around the west side if you have moderate climbing skills.

The big pothole in The Squeeze is a piece of cake if the traverse line is in place, or a major bitch if you have to do it the hard way. This pothole can stop all but experienced canyoneers if the traverse line is not in place.

FWIW in my book the ratings are:

The Squeeze is rated 4B III
http://climb-utah.com/SRS/squeeze1.htm

Quandary Direct is rated 4B III
http://climb-utah.com/SRS/quandary.htm

Quandary By-Pass is rated 3B III
http://climb-utah.com/SRS/quandary.htm

Knotted Rope is rated 3B III
http://climb-utah.com/SRS/knotted.htm

This video does a great job of showing the obstacles in The Squeeze.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yz-8pqVUGiU


And here is Quandary.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2I-jxUFg_s

And if anyone has a good video of Knotted Rope they would like to donate to the cause please let me know. I'm trying to create a library of all the canyons on Climb-Utah.com and I just noticed Knotted Rope could use one.

:popcorn:

[Iceaxe]

I used to have an old San Rafael Swell hiking guidebook that claimed you could hike the entirety of the Upper Black Box from Swinging Bridge down to Swazey's Leap in a day.

There are several ways to "hike" the Upper Black Box, but all of them involve some major slogging. The rap routes eliminate all the slogging and keep all the fun, kind of like getting to go on the honeymoon and skipping the wedding :-)

[ratagonia]

My 2 cents....

The potholes in Quandary are not an issue provided you are not solo and have a little commonsense. I compare it to the pothole in Middle Echo. They can sometimes be hard, depending on water, but you always figure out how to defeat them.

The big pothole at the start of Knotted Rope is the one that has claimed a life, but if you can't defeat it you just turn around and hike out and come to play another day. You can also just climb around the west side if you have moderate climbing skills.

The big pothole in The Squeeze is a piece of cake if the traverse line is in place, or a major bitch if you have to do it the hard way. This pothole can stop all but experienced canyoneers if the traverse line is not in place.



Hmmmm. Your mileage may vary.

The pothole in Echo - actually pretty hard.

The big pothole in KR claimed a life, yes, but... she fell off the climb around. They did not have a rope. Bring a bit of rope, even though it is "not required". Just like Zero Gravity, a rope is not required until something goes wrong.

Not that I get into the Squeeze all that often anymore, but the rope fixed across the traverse is rarely there anymore. So plan on doing it "for real".

Tom

[Iceaxe]

The big pothole in KR claimed a life, yes, but... she fell off the climb around. They did not have a rope. Bring a bit of rope, even though it is "not required".

Yes they did have a rope. She couldn't climb it and he couldn't pull her out by himself.

I'm friends with a couple of the SAR guys on this one and they said the accident scene was pretty gruesome, as the man had used the rope to truss his wife up out of the water so he could go for help. When SAR arrived she was dead hanging in a rats nest of rope.

[ratagonia]

Yes they did have a rope. She couldn't climb it and he couldn't pull her out by himself.

I'm friends with a couple of the SAR guys on this one and they said the accident scene was pretty gruesome, as the man had used the rope to truss his wife up out of the water so he could go for help. When SAR arrived she was dead hanging in a rats nest of rope.

Seriously? What a sad case. My apologies, had not heard that detail. (please confirm she did break her arm in the fall)

But, Seriously, bring a rope. Just in case.

Tom

[Iceaxe]

Seriously? What a sad case. My apologies, had not heard that detail. (please confirm she did break her arm in the fall)

But, Seriously, bring a rope. Just in case.

Tom

My understanding was she broke her arm in a fall. I know the SAR guys kept the gruesome details on the down low out of respect for the family. I know the situation caused at least one SAR member a few nightmares.

And I personally always carry a minimum of 30' of webbing in my possibles bag, even when just hiking.

[uintafly]

As a mostly talentless hack, I found the Squeeze to be more difficult than Quandary. I've done Quandary several times as part of a 2 person team and never had any issues with escapes. the big pothole in the Squeeze can be pretty difficult at certain water levels. My first trip through I had a partner unable to batman out when the lip was probably 8' or so from the water line, while still being a swimmer. After a few attempts he started getting really cold and I was glad there were still 2 of us out so that we could quickly bring him back up. After that we have always figured ways to avoid getting in the water there. By the way, has anyone seen that dry? I wonder how deep it can be.

[jman]

As a mostly talentless hack, I found the Squeeze to be more difficult than Quandary. I've done Quandary several times as part of a 2 person team and never had any issues with escapes. the big pothole in the Squeeze can be pretty difficult at certain water levels. My first trip through I had a partner unable to batman out when the lip was probably 8' or so from the water line, while still being a swimmer. After a few attempts he started getting really cold and I was glad there were still 2 of us out so that we could quickly bring him back up. After that we have always figured ways to avoid getting in the water there. By the way, has anyone seen that dry? I wonder how deep it can be.

I also agree that the Squeeze is more difficult. But...a lot of fun. But one has to be prepared for that keeper though.

Someone posted a recent TR on the CC about the current conditions there. That keeper was dry! Pretty neat to see it like that.


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[ratagonia]

As a mostly talentless hack, I found the Squeeze to be more difficult than Quandary. I've done Quandary several times as part of a 2 person team and never had any issues with escapes. the big pothole in the Squeeze can be pretty difficult at certain water levels. My first trip through I had a partner unable to batman out when the lip was probably 8' or so from the water line, while still being a swimmer. After a few attempts he started getting really cold and I was glad there were still 2 of us out so that we could quickly bring him back up. After that we have always figured ways to avoid getting in the water there. By the way, has anyone seen that dry? I wonder how deep it can be.

like this, from last week? (not my photo).

Please note: lots of sand in there. usually there is water, with the top of the water below where the top of the sand is in this picture...

(raining today here in Zion)

[ratagonia]

See also: http://canyoncollective.com/threads/squeeze-april-28.25299/

[uintafly]

like this, from last week? (not my photo).

Please note: lots of sand in there. usually there is water, with the top of the water below where the top of the sand is in this picture...

(raining today here in Zion)

That is a ton of sand. That is about where the water line was when my buddy was swimming.