Disconcerting anchor techniques (Poe and Heaps)

[ScottM]

I was fortunate enough to go through Poe (Smiling Cricket) over this past weekend (Oct.14th) and was very surprised to see webbing being used without rapides or a quicklink. At no less than 3 anchors we found webbing that was slung without a link, leaving burn scars on the webbing and a certain hazard for those that follow. While it is incumbent upon all of us to check all aspects of the anchors we come upon, this irresponsible act seriously endangers subsequent groups that may not be so diligent. I'm curious to know why a group would chose to descend a canyon with this type of practice. I haven't seen this in other canyons, and for the life of me I cannot rationalize why a group would chose to do this in a canyon as technical as Poe. Why not utilize a retrievable anchor? Even if replacing old/worn-out webbing you could still utilize the existing rapide. The locations were spread out within the canyon, so I would likely rule out that notion that they were sparingly saving their rapides for latter anchors.


Additionally, while in Heaps this past Sept. we came upon 2 different anchor stations that were slung with webbing tied with an overhand vs. ring bend. Very disconcerting to see both of these within more advanced canyons.


Anyone have any thoughts?

87948

[Scott P]

In days past you would find anchors without quick links or rings fairly frequently (at least if you found any webbing at all).

Luckily this seems to be a thing of the past. It is possible that whoever did that was either out of quick links or inexperienced, but it's hard to say.

[ScottM]

It is possible that whoever did that was either out of quick links or inexperienced, but it's hard to say.

First occurrence was on the very first rappel.

[Scott P]

Weird. Now that I look at it closer, are those rings by your glove? If so, that would be really weird since that would mean that the anchor had rings, but they were not used?

[ScottM]

Weird. Now that I look at it closer, are those rings by your glove? If so, that would be really weird since that would mean that the anchor had rings, but they were not used?

The rapids was added after inspecting the webbing. The picture was taken thereafter.

[Bootboy]

Poe is ghostable with a little finesse. I’m of the opinion that there should be no webbing left in there. But that’s beside the point.

That first drop in Poe is very short so I could see someone thinking a ring isn’t necessary. Anymore, Poe is almost a trade route and as such, this technique is certainly not best practice.

[ratagonia]

First occurrence was on the very first rappel.

First rappel is very short. Unless you are talking entry rappel/someoneotherthanmedoesthedownclimb, in which case, there should not be webbing there.

Maybe someone left webbing w no ring, and Fiddled it. next group rapped and pulled through, again no ring.

T