KISS?

[Scott P]

What do you think of this?

http://www.rockandice.com/Article-Images/News-Photos/December-2015/Accident-231.jpgCHALK TALK: ATC-Guide properly backed-up with a Munter Hitch in lowering mode. There are various ways to rig this, but all must include a back-up/lowering hitch or friction knot on the brake-hand side of the rope. This is because when ATC-Guide is released by pulling the cord, it completely releases. Without the Munter Hitch or other back-up, you will drop your second.">

When I saw the article, I thought it was going to be satirical, but apparently the article is serious in that the above is the proper way to use an ATC guide to lower.

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/climber-dropped-when-lowered-in-autoblock-mode

Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't this be way too much friction?

[Brian in SLC]

I think the schematic is in response to someone being lowered in guide mode and getting hurt (and not for the first time).

I rarely use guide mode. Typically use a sling shot belay if the anchor is solid. To lower I just feed rope like you would on any top rope. Its not easy to unlock a device in guide mode smoothly. Its kinda all or none. Locked off or wide open.

More prefer the Petzl Reverso (current version) for the guide mode thing. Easier to effect a lower for me.


https://player.vimeo.com/video/22320202

(Go Holly!)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLHGGaCBfkQ

The Petzl version (I like that I can get a biner in the little hole to lever the Reverso...know folks who've drilled out their ATC-Guide to allow that).

I'd think its pretty rare to have to convert to lower with one of these devices in guide mode. Good to know how to effect it safely if you use that mode. I do with belaying two partners (on two separate ropes) on ice or alpine on easier terrain, but, even that's pretty rare for me.

[moab mark]

This is way over my head.:)

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[geckobiker]

Perhaps looking at the manufacturer recommendations would answer the question. Of course that would end all speculation and a long entertaining thread.


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