View Full Version : News Zion Accident - Louis Johnson - Not Imlay Canyon
Slot Machine
10-03-2015, 01:28 PM
I'm saddened by this news...
http://www.ksl.com/?sid=36799608&nid=148&s_cid=rss-extlink
I believe that I met Louis and his partner Everett at the top of Alcatraz earlier this year, and chatted with them for a few minutes. Louis seemed like a nice guy.
My condolences go out to all that knew him.
_____
ZION NATIONAL PARK — A man is dead after a canyoneering accident in Zion National Park Friday afternoon, officials said.
Friday afternoon at approximately 1 p.m., park officials at Zion National Park were alerted to an accident which took place in Not Imlay Canyon. A rescue operation was initiated, including a helicopter used to drop a search-and-rescue team at the top of the canyon, according to park officials.
At 7:20 p.m., park rangers located an individual, identified at Christian Louis Johnson, 50, of St. George. Johnson was deceased by the time park rangers found him, park officials said.
Not Imlay Canyon is a side canyon of Imlay Canyon. According to park officials, it has become increasingly popular in recent years as a shorter, drier route. However, park rangers note that Not Imlay Canyon is no less difficult or technical than Imlay Canyon.
Officials did not release any information as to the specific circumstances surrounding Johnson's death. It was not clear whether he was hiking alone or with companions. More information will be released as it becomes available.
Cameron7
10-03-2015, 01:50 PM
I've been grieving all day.
He was an incredible human being and a mentor to me
A light in this world. I will miss you every day
I love you Louis
Felicia
10-03-2015, 01:52 PM
http://www.nps.gov/zion/learn/news/canyoneeringfatality_notimlay.htm
Date: October 3, 2015
Contact:Aly Baltrus (http://www.nps.gov/common/utilities/sendmail/sendemail.cfm?o=4A89C2A88ED290BE95B707BDEC048BA356 8E088853A0&r=/zion/learn/news/canyoneeringfatality_notimlay.htm), 435-703-3836
Contact:David Eaker (http://www.nps.gov/common/utilities/sendmail/sendemail.cfm?o=4F84CDB299ECAABD9FBE018FF707B8E341 9250&r=/zion/learn/news/canyoneeringfatality_notimlay.htm), 435-772-7811
Springdale, Utah: On Friday, October 2, at approximately 1:00 p.m., Zion National Park was alerted to a canyoneering accident in Not Imlay Canyon. A rescue operation was started immediately. A helicopter was used to drop off a Search and Rescue team at the top of the canyon. At 7:20 p.m., Park Rangers found the individual, Christian Louis Johnson, deceased. Johnson, 50, is from Saint George, Utah.
Not Imlay Canyon is a side canyon of Imlay Canyon. It has become increasingly popular in recent years as a shorter, drier route compared to Imlay Canyon but it is not any less technical or dangerous.
Johnson was canyoneering with a party of four, including his husband Everett Boutillet. The two had been canyoneering together since 2010 and had "descended more than 100 canyons 200 times in five states" according to Boutillet. This was the couple's second time in Not Imlay Canyon. The accident occurred on the first rappel in the canyon.
"Zion was our favorite park. Our favorite place to be. Our first canyon was the 'Subway' and we were instantly addicted," said Boutillet. "Louis and I understood the risks, but the joy that it brought outweighed them." Johnson's mother, Joy Johnson, added "Nature gave him so much peace."
"We also want to share our gratitude for those that went out to him and brought him back and to the personnel for keeping us informed," said Joy Johnson. "Also our gratitude to his canyoneering family, who have sent Louis and Everett well wishes from all around the world."
The Washington County Sheriff's Office and Zion National Park are investigating the incident. More information will become available once the investigation is complete.
"Our condolences go out to Louis' family and friends," said Zion National Park Superintendent Jeff Bradybaugh.
Felicia
10-03-2015, 02:01 PM
:cry1:
harness man
10-03-2015, 02:04 PM
Really sad to hear about this.
Condolences to family and friends.
Please be careful out there.
Sombeech
10-03-2015, 03:01 PM
So what happened, what went wrong?
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I met Louis in the Roost as well. I can't remember the exact canyon we were doing a year back but he was friendly and we chatted about the nearby canyons.
Sorry for the family and friends' loss.
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accadacca
10-03-2015, 08:06 PM
Condolences. What a bummer.
Sombeech
10-03-2015, 09:12 PM
So nobody knows what went wrong?
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DiscGo
10-04-2015, 06:12 AM
So what happened, what went wrong? Sombeech, here is a more detailed account of what happened:
http://suindependent.com/louis-johnson/
accadacca
10-04-2015, 08:45 AM
From dialoguing with Louis’s husband Everett Boutillet, I know that Louis was on the first of two rappels in the canyon that would be the first two in the canyon. They had just begun, and apparently Louis went first, as he often did. This is a position commonly taken by the more experienced of a group to be sure ropes are set and that a safety belay from below is present. I recall Louis doing this often, smiling as he stepped off.
Everett says the rope did not reach the first landing due to a recent change in the location of the second rappel station they were not aware of. Louis did not look in time to realize he was in trouble and by the time he knew, he was only able to shout up that the end of the rope was eight feet from the landing. He presumably had no choice but to try to land on his feet in a treacherous place as the rappel was multi-pitched. This means he would ideally have tied in to the second anchor before coming off the first rope but was unable to. The party could not see Louis but heard him come off the rope and land, and they believe he rolled off the second rappel unroped.
The following is beta (climbing information) from bluugnome.com (http://www.bluugnome.com/cyn_route/zion_not-imlay/zion_not-imlay.aspx) about the sections of the canyon where they were.
The Canyoneering / Technical Section:
From the drop with the brown stains … walk down the sloped slick rock on the left (north) bypassing the drop.
About 250 feet down canyon is the top of a drop that can not be bypassed. … Rap 1 is anchored form a pine tree about 40 feet left (north) of the center of the watercourse and drops right at 100 feet into a side ravine. At the bottom of rap 1 the ravine is steep and dirt filled so be careful not slide down uncontrolled while getting off the rappel.
Note:
From the top of Rap 1 you can see people hiking down in the narrows if you look carefully. Also of note from the top of rap 1 you are only 750 horizontal feet from the river down in the narrows with about 850 feet of elevation to lose to get down to the river.
Rap 2 is right at the bottom of rap 1 and is anchored from another pine tree. Rap 2 drops about 180 feet down a series of ledges to a large ledge. The intermediate ledge on rap 2 is about 100 feet down while the large ledge that rap 2 stops on, 180 feet down.
From this, it is ascertained that even if Louis was not injured from the initial drop at the end of the rope that did not reach on the first rappel, the fall from the second was imminently fatal.
Everett confirms saying this: “The rope didn’t reach. We couldn’t see him. Can only use conjecture that he went to land, then rolled, and went over the edge of the second rap. The sounds suggest this and will never leave my mind.”
http://suindependent.com/louis-johnson/
Sombeech
10-04-2015, 10:50 AM
Does anybody have a photo of this rappel? It sounds like he hit the end of the rope and fell off the second rappel, is that right?
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Cameron7
10-04-2015, 11:19 AM
Details will be released soon so that we can all can learn from. The parties involved are in deep grief and dealing with the trauma of the experience.
An account will be released so we can all grow from this experience.
In the meantime, go hug and love family and friends.
2065toyota
10-04-2015, 02:40 PM
Does anybody have a photo of this rappel? It sounds like he hit the end of the rope and fell off the second rappel, is that right?
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You can go to collective and see Rams trip reports for pictures
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JeremyAndShannon
10-04-2015, 03:38 PM
We are the third and fourth members of the team of canyoneers that set out to descend Not Imlay canyon with Everett and Louis. The following is our attempt to document the events that transpired on Friday, October 2, 2015. We have tried to capture the facts as accurately as possible.
We had plans with Louis and Everett to do a technical descent of Not Imlay canyon on Friday and Crawford Arch on Saturday. We left The Grotto shuttle stop just after 8:00 am. We arrived at the top of Not Imlay shortly after 11:00 am. We continued down to rap 1, where an anchor was already set. The anchor was set on a tree in the water course. We all inspected it and agreed it was solid. We took a lunch break and then geared up. It was shortly before noon. We discussed safety, agreed to double-strand, and agreed to use a fireman’s belay. The first drop was expected to be 100’ to a ledge with the second rap station, so a 200’ rope was set. The second rap was expected to be 180’. We agreed Louis would take the 300’ rope and set rap 2. Louis got on rope using a Pirana. Before he went over the lip, he posed for photos. He is in the water course in the pictures. We watched as Louis descended over the lip. A little while later we heard Louis shout up to us. It was difficult to communicate and he was out of sight; however, we did hear Louis indicate that there wasn’t enough rope to reach the bottom of the rap. Everett moved into a lower position on a perch with a tree where it appeared he could hear Louis slightly better. They continued to communicate with difficulty for a short time regarding options. A moment later, we heard a scream followed by an impact, after which the scream stopped. After another moment, we heard a second impact. Everett asked if we had heard what he had heard. We all shouted down to Louis; there was no response. We briefly considered sending one person down with ascending gear to assess the situation. We quickly agreed that was not a viable option. We pushed the emergency button on the Spot device shortly after noon. We agreed to part ways; Everett and Shannon went back via the approach route for help, Jeremy stayed back for Louis and SAR. Shannon and Everett each individually made cell contact with 911, Shannon at the top of Scouts Landing and Everett at the junction with Angel’s Landing. They continued together to The Grotto shuttle stop. They were transported by a ranger to the Emergency Operations Center. SAR arrived on the scene at approximately 5:00 pm and quickly began to set up operations. Jeremy was transported by helicopter to the EOC, where he met up with Shannon and Everett.
Later in the evening, a kind and loving member of the community opened their home and took the three of us in. We are so thankful for the efforts of SAR , the park personnel that helped us, the friends and family that have reached out to us, and to the canyoneering community as a whole. Only Louis knows what happened in those final moments. We are so deeply saddened by this tragedy. Please keep your thoughts with Everett during this time.
Be safe in your adventures,
Jeremy & Shannon
Sombeech
10-04-2015, 03:40 PM
You can go to collective and see Rams trip reports for pictures
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Just any one of his Not Imlay reports, or could somebody be so gracious as to direct me to a photo of the rappel in question?
Much appreciated. Thanks
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Taylor
10-04-2015, 03:58 PM
Sorry for your loss and best wishes for you and your partners as you mourn.
Cameron7
10-04-2015, 04:13 PM
I love you J and S. I am sorry you had to be part of a tragedy. I grieve along with you and for you.
Sombeech
10-04-2015, 07:17 PM
Thank you for telling your story, J&S. That must have been unimaginable. Sorry for your loss.
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twotimer
10-04-2015, 07:41 PM
Sorry to say it, but in the quest to discover what when wrong and how, the lesson to learn from this is try REALLY REALLY hard not to make a bad decision.
Also, wherever one can get beta about this canyon, it needs to be fixed. I could only imagine that these guys thoroughly checked it out? How can it be so screwed up? In just the last few minutes, I learned the there are two ways to rap that drop...a long two stage or a really long one. Watercourse or Blue Gnome...take your pick and use the right rope.
Bad beta and a lack of instant contingency for this kind of event. Everyone should know what to do, instantly, if they ever get to the end of the rope.
We are so deeply saddened by this tragedy. Please keep your thoughts with Everett during this time.
Be safe in your adventures,
Jeremy & Shannon
Im sorry for your loss Jeremy & Shannon and what you had to endure there.
Thank you for sharing the details. Please let us know if you need anything from the community.
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ratagonia
10-05-2015, 11:29 AM
http://suindependent.com/louis-johnson/
The quoted beta is for a different entry route into this canyon.
Tom
ratagonia
10-05-2015, 11:39 AM
Also, wherever one can get beta about this canyon, it needs to be fixed. I could only imagine that these guys thoroughly checked it out? How can it be so screwed up? In just the last few minutes, I learned the there are two ways to rap that drop...a long two stage or a really long one. Watercourse or Blue Gnome...take your pick and use the right rope.
Bad beta and a lack of instant contingency for this kind of event. Everyone should know what to do, instantly, if they ever get to the end of the rope.
We have had two fatal accidents in Zion, now, that resulted from an over-fascination with the beta.
The key point here is not "to get the right beta". Getting the right beta is helpful, but not a powerful solution.
The powerful solution is to deal with the reality of the situation, rather than with the situation as described by the beta.
The beta is useful for selecting the right canyon to do, for choosing the right gear to bring, and for getting to the canyon. Once AT the canyon, the beta should be put away, and the canyon dealt with based on reality.
Both Louis and Everett had done the canyon before, using the watercourse rappel line. Very crazy that they thought rappelling that way was only 100 feet.
Tom
Pictures here: http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/imlay-canyon-zion-rope-retrieval-scenic-tour-nov-21-2014/
darhawk
10-05-2015, 01:32 PM
We have had two fatal accidents in Zion, now, that resulted from an over-fascination with the beta.
The key point here is not "to get the right beta". Getting the right beta is helpful, but not a powerful solution.
The powerful solution is to deal with the reality of the situation, rather than with the situation as described by the beta.
The beta is useful for selecting the right canyon to do, for choosing the right gear to bring, and for getting to the canyon. Once AT the canyon, the beta should be put away, and the canyon dealt with based on reality.
While I agree with and very much appreciate the main thrust of the argument here, it surely goes too far in saying that beta should be put away once at the canyon, if understood to be a definitive rule. I have several times benefited from beta mid-canyon. I do tend to put it away, but then pull it out in especially puzzling spots, to be used in conjunction with the reality around me. Bluugnome in particular does such an excellent job with specifics and has helped save me lots of time and trouble in a couple of situations. I really love his beta. Still, I love the main point of the post: beware over-fascination with beta. I sometimes feel and try to resist that pull, while still taking advantage of the real help provided by clear and specific information. I feel quite comfortable tackling canyons with Bluugnome beta.
rhouston8
10-05-2015, 03:53 PM
I hate reading about this. Totally different than a flood that kills new canyoneers. I am very sorry for the loss here. I dont know the folks involved.
At the risk of sounding crass (not intended).... Did he have any ascending gear (frog setup, etc) on him, know how to use such, and could he have tied off and had the guys on top "mail him " basic ascender rig to use. Or rig another rope and send someone w an ascender setup down to assist?
Assuming he rappelled double strand and was short roped and assuming both ends were tied in/locked at the anchor up top.... how about tying off, moving from the double strand to a single, then tying the 300' he had on him to that end, etc, or even having it pulled up so the top party guys could then have a separate working rope with which to begin to assist, etc?
As primarily a caver I feel that 1st people down a drop that they cant SEE rope touching the bottom should be able to do a changeover in case things go sour (short rope, tangled rope, etc). I've noticed in the canyon world that not everyone can/knows how to.
I do not know the details and my comments are not meant to inflame. I am very sorry to hear of this and my condolences are offered. What can we learn from this?
As primarily a caver I feel that 1st people down a drop that they cant SEE rope touching the bottom should be able to do a changeover in case things go sour (short rope, tangled rope, etc). I've noticed in the canyon world that not everyone can/knows how to.
In my short span of canyoneering for almost 14years, I can say with the groups I have been invited on or have witnessed, or created myself. I have been one of two people out of 4-12 people that can safely and confidently do this.
In my experience it feels like most people treat canyoneering like a hike. "Not much to it"! Know how to tie a water knot, clove hitch, maybe know a munter and that's about it. The rest is cake walk. Let everyone else setup the rappels for you. (For those reading, this is sarcasm, please do not think like this).
The great thing is that this scenario can happen and allows noobs to go through and learn. However, this is the worst thing that can happen. So now that that leader has hurt himself, what are the noobs to do.
There are a few answers but typing them from a phone sucks! (I'll have to come back to this later.)
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kiwi_outdoors
10-05-2015, 06:30 PM
the short answer is that canyoneering is a high risk sport, like Hang Gliding, because mistakes can be very damaging if not fatal. But canyoneering is deceptive because being on a rope feels like you are connected to mother earth. I survived a brief infatuation with hang gliding (crashed on my last flight) and stopped doing it. I would like to do more canyoneering, and survive, which is why I took a self-rescue course (it was about getting unstuck on rope), and tend to go canyoneering only with professionals or practicioners that I trust. The first wet canyon I did was Keyhole, with my wife and daughter, which certainly gives me a big pause to reflect on canyoneering and risk taking.
oldno7
10-05-2015, 07:45 PM
Canyoneering is certainly not a high risk sport!
It is a sport of extreme ease, if one has a legitimate bag of tools and knowledge of their use.
I was taught and have taught, that on a rappel that is of unknown height and/or the bottom is not visible, rig for contingency!
This is a basic rig with several variations that allow the first rappeler to be lowered, if necessary, to a safe spot.
I wish not to offend, but KISS is not for long term canyon safety.
If all you know is double strand, take a course, become proficient, these techniques are not party tricks, they are tools that can save yours or others lives.
Condolences to the party who witnessed this tragedy, family and friends.
Iceaxe
10-05-2015, 08:25 PM
Canyoneering is certainly not a high risk sport!
It is a sport of extreme ease, if one has a legitimate bag of tools and knowledge of their use.
I consider CanyoneerIng to be a high risk sport as mistakes can be deadly, unlike golf or fishing where mistakes just mean you had a bad day.
If you mess up the weather forecast in golf all that happens is you get wet. Mess up a knot fishing you just lose your hook. Mess up either of those in canyoneering and you might end up dead.
I do agree canyoneering is easy when done correctly, but some mistakes come with big penalty points. If you look at the statics we lose at least one canyoneer every year. When was the last time someone lost their life bowling or playing tennis?
Archie
10-05-2015, 08:34 PM
I am new to the sport so I do not have the experience but try and think logically and want to learn to further my own knowledge. Without knowing all the details first hand as why they chose double strand versus single perhaps it was to not use a pull rope but who knows. Without being able to see the bottom of the rope would it make more sense to send the first man down on a single rope this doubling the length of the rope and once he is safely down then switch to double strand if you wish for the other people? I could be completely wrong but in the aftermath of an accident like this it makes one think of what caused the accident and what could have prevented it.
Iceaxe
10-05-2015, 10:16 PM
It regards to this accident, rappelling single or double strand is a non-issue in my book as a competent canyoneer should know how to a ascend both types of situations. And if you only know how to ascend single strand I hate to break the bad news to you but you're not a competent canyoneer.
oldno7
10-06-2015, 05:02 AM
I consider CanyoneerIng to be a high risk sport as mistakes can be deadly, unlike golf or fishing where mistakes just mean you had a bad day.
I would agree, I was quoting another, I meant canyoneering was not an extreme sport, there are certainly risks and mistakes come at a high price.
Training and knowledge is key, no matter the adjective describing this sport.
Despite all that--anyone can make a mistake.
oldno7
10-06-2015, 05:16 AM
It regards to this accident, rappelling single or double strand is a non-issue in my book.
It's a huge issue--square peg--round hole type issue.
When I canyon, I have a whistle attached to my helmet, in a situation of an unknown length of rap I usually go down first.
Many times the rope has been varying degrees of too short. A single blast on the whistle, tells my partners to begin lowering me from the contingency set up, a double blast, indicates I've reached my landing point. Three blasts indicate I'm in trouble and require help.....
These methods can only happen using a single strand and need to be worked out by the group prior to entering the canyon.
This is not a technique for every rap in every canyon, it is a technique that is used when required.
I'll quit posting on this, in respect to those involved but it certainly is a learning moment.
Sombeech
10-06-2015, 06:47 AM
When I canyon, I have a whistle attached to my helmet, in a situation of an unknown length of rap I usually go down first.
Many times the rope has been varying degrees of too short. A single blast on the whistle, tells my partners to begin lowering me from the contingency set up, a double blast, indicates I've reached my landing point. Three blasts indicate I'm in trouble and require help.....
Sounds like a great idea. Whistle codes can often be easier heard than people trying to talk or shout over a cliff's edge.
CanyonFreak
10-06-2015, 10:18 AM
Two way radios are great for raps like those in heaps or class C canyons where even a whistle signal can be difficult to make out with confidence. Not worth dragging through 95% of canyons tho.
Iceaxe
10-06-2015, 12:15 PM
I would agree, I was quoting another, I meant canyoneering was not an extreme sport, there are certainly risks and mistakes come at a high price.
Now we are on the same page. Canyoneering is not an extreme sport, but it is a high risk sport. :2thumbs:
in a situation of an unknown length of rap I usually go down first.
Again i think we are answering different questions. If the length of the rap is unknown my approach to it is totally different. But in this case it appears the victim knew the length of the rappel, or to be more accurate he thought he did. But either way a competent canyoneer should know how to ascend both single and double strand ropes.
hank moon
10-06-2015, 07:44 PM
Thinking about the minimum level of risk required to engage in a sport, i'd say canyoneering is moderately risky. High minimum risk could be skydiving. Extreme minimum risk? B.A.S.E. or exploratory cave diving. With canyoneering, you can always choose to do a less hazardous canyon, mitigate rappel risk with belays, and so on. So although the hazards of canyoneering may be inherently high, the risk can be greatly reduced by good risk management.
Semantically yours,
hank
Iceaxe
10-06-2015, 08:40 PM
That you have to manage the risks makes my point.... there is no risk to manage in many sports.
hank moon
10-06-2015, 09:00 PM
That you have to manage the risks makes my point.... there is no risk to manage in many sports.
Obviously you haven't heard of pickleball calf burn syndrome-itis.
Sombeech
10-06-2015, 10:01 PM
On a side note, it looks like Louis was a member here on bogley. Louis http://www.bogley.com/forum/image.php?u=18633&dateline=1281375544
I see a lot of people that knew Louis, I'm sorry for your loss.
I'm curious, has there been a funeral or viewing yet? Did anybody in this thread have a chance to go?
ratagonia
10-06-2015, 11:12 PM
On a side note, it looks like Louis was a member here on bogley. @Louis (http://www.bogley.com/forum/member.php?u=18633) http://www.bogley.com/forum/image.php?u=18633&dateline=1281375544
I see a lot of people that knew Louis, I'm sorry for your loss.
I'm curious, has there been a funeral or viewing yet? Did anybody in this thread have a chance to go?
Louis requested no service.
Tom
Iceaxe
10-07-2015, 05:40 AM
Obviously you haven't heard of pickleball calf burn syndrome-itis.
Haha.... I didn't even know what pickleball was until two weeks ago. I noticed it was the most popular sport at the world senior games and wanted to find out what this action packed, high risk, low reward, sport that senior citizens flocked to was.
Mudcat
10-07-2015, 09:39 AM
Your instincts are right, Archie. Even if I plan to finish double-strand, I usually start with single strand. And if I can't see the rope at the bottom, then I almost always start single, then equalize the ropes later as needed, even if I "know" the rappel, through beta or experience, because I'm well acquainted with my personal fallibility. Having that extra rope available is a safety precaution. Being able to ascend more easily with my Tiblocs in case of problem is a fringe benefit.
kiwi_outdoors
10-07-2015, 11:54 AM
Thinking about the minimum level of risk required to engage in a sport, i'd say canyoneering is moderately risky. High minimum risk could be skydiving. Extreme minimum risk? B.A.S.E. or exploratory cave diving. With canyoneering, you can always choose to do a less hazardous canyon, mitigate rappel risk with belays, and so on. So although the hazards of canyoneering may be inherently high, the risk can be greatly reduced by good risk management.
Semantically yours,
hank
Well said. Which is why an Avalanche Course tought me (and others) to have a Plan B excursion in our back pocket, in case Plan A was suddenly evaluated aas being too risky (due to snowpack conditions)
ratagonia
10-07-2015, 12:05 PM
While I agree with and very much appreciate the main thrust of the argument here, it surely goes too far in saying that beta should be put away once at the canyon, if understood to be a definitive rule. I have several times benefited from beta mid-canyon. I do tend to put it away, but then pull it out in especially puzzling spots, to be used in conjunction with the reality around me.
Bluugnome in particular does such an excellent job with specifics and has helped save me lots of time and trouble in a couple of situations. I really love his beta. Still, I love the main point of the post: beware over-fascination with beta. I sometimes feel and try to resist that pull, while still taking advantage of the real help provided by clear and specific information. I feel quite comfortable tackling canyons with Bluugnome beta.
I support your added nuance. There are usually one to three details of problems it is helpful to know, while in a canyon.
However, I claim that your comfort in tackling canyons with voluminous beta is a FALSE comfort.
You would be better served, I claim (pontificate, preach, entreat) to work on your craftsmanship (of descending canyons) by solving problems yourself, rather than using the cheat sheet. Afterwards, perhaps, compare to the solution that Luke came up with.
Luke's Bluugnome beta is also written usually after doing the canyon once. I am surprised at how often he misses obvious points in his descriptions. His beta is also so detailed that it is essentially out of date as soon as it is published.
Tom :moses:
uintafly
10-07-2015, 01:41 PM
I support your added nuance. There are usually one to three details of problems it is helpful to know, while in a canyon.
However, I claim that your comfort in tackling canyons with voluminous beta is a FALSE comfort.
You would be better served, I claim (pontificate, preach, entreat) to work on your craftsmanship (of descending canyons) by solving problems yourself, rather than using the cheat sheet. Afterwards, perhaps, compare to the solution that Luke came up with.
Luke's Bluugnome beta is also written usually after doing the canyon once. I am surprised at how often he misses obvious points in his descriptions. His beta is also so detailed that it is essentially out of date as soon as it is published.
Tom :moses:
I have to agree with all of your points here. When my partners and I first started this sport we were pulling out our beta sheet at seemingly every problem. Is this a downclimb, or a rappel? What does he mean by strong downclimbers can forego a rappel? Is this the keeper? It started driving me nuts how reliant we were on that stuff. Once we started using it to preplan the trip and to find the trailhead and then put it away, I noticed my skills and judgment started increasing at a much faster rate. The problem solving is now by far my favorite part about the sport.
Also as much as I love all of the waypoints for the approach on bluugnome, the amount of detail given is way too much for me. Sometimes it reminds me of a treasure map, "walk 40 paces past skull rock, head East and walk 50 paces to the dead tree...."
Everett B
10-17-2015, 02:11 PM
Thanks for your patience while I recover from the loss of my husband and life partner of 21 years. The moments and particularly the sounds of Louis’ fall have been seared into my mind forever. I got no sleep for the first 48 hours as the accident played in my head on continuous loop followed by the endless thoughts of would’ve, could’ve, should’ve. I completely understand the insatiable desire for details and the need to learn from others mistakes when an accident occurs in a canyon. Unfortunately, there are no good answers for why we made the ultimately fatal choice but I can certainly tell you now a handful of things NOT to do.
The way I see it, there were two glaringly obvious mistakes:
1.)Why was a 100’ rope set on a 280’ rappel?
2.)After realizing mistake number one, how did Louis react and why?
We are experienced. Since becoming hopelessly addicted to canyoneering after descending the Subway in 2010, we have descended more than 120 different canyons in five different states for a total of about 200 trips. We took a multi-day beginning Canyoneering class from Rick Green in 2011 and his advanced class in 2012. We’ve benefitted from the instruction and example of many seasoned canyoneers.
I think there is a general eagerness to get into a canyon. This may have contributed to a rushed decision. It is pertinent also to mention that along with all of Louis’ stellar qualities, he did have a streak of impulsiveness. Throughout our life together there have been many examples of this but I’ll just mention one here. We both LOVE to downclimb drops. There have been many occasions where I had to restrain Louis from plunging into a downclimb. Was he being impulsive on that rap? I don’t know.
I need to state right off that Louis and I alone are responsible for what occurred that day. We used BluuGnome beta for the trip. I remember asking Louis if we should use Tom’s beta. He said the canyon wasn’t listed on Tom's site. I’ve since learned it IS there, Louis must’ve missed it. We had done the canyon once before – a rope retrieval “service project”. This was written up in one of Tom’s Raves. It made me sick to see those photos after the fact. Unfortunately, Louis and I are not among those who can remember every canyon trip they’ve done.
Jeremy and Shannon described the approach – I’ll get right to the fatal first rappel. As we made the final walk down the beautiful slickrock ramp, the “new anchor” stood out like a beacon. We had used it last year. Before setting the rope, I pointed out the location of the “old anchor”. There was no webbing/anchor on the tree. This is when lightning bolts of caution should’ve hit us. They did not. At this point, Louis and I had no memory of doing the first and second raps as one single combined rappel. (Lack of preparation? We could've looked at our own photos of our first Not Imlay trip) This is where our inexcusable, baffling, horrible lapse in judgement occurred. I can honestly say we both thought Louis was going down 100’ to a ledge. Louis dumped the 200’ rope out of its rope bag, found the ends and began to thread the rope, doubled, through the rap ring. I immediately asked him why he was doubling it. I expressed my concern about getting the doubled rope through my new rappel device, the Sqwurel. More serious concerns escaped my attention. Louis said something to the effect that “we’ve done it before, it’ll work”. I quickly acquiesced. (now I wonder – what, a 100’ rope on a 100’ rappel? No room for error) (the rope was in a bag, why not just send it down, listen for it to land per usual?) (why not set a block with a contingency? This is what Rick Green taught us and we had gotten away from). There are situations where doubling the rope is prudent: shorter raps where you can always see the bottom, raps with problematic pulls where a block might get stuck, when you have a large group and speed would be helpful. Certainly if it was raining and you needed to exit a canyon quickly, etc. In the case of the first rap in Not Imlay, a doubled rope is a poor choice indeed.
Louis said he’d set up the next rappel and took the only other rope with him. (should we have had another rope? Probably) (Did he need to take the second rope? No, there was no need for our group of four to be in a hurry) (Did the added weight contribute to his fall? Possibly)The rap has a long sloping beginning. Louis went over and far too long after we heard him shout up (due to the elapsed time he must’ve been close to the end of the rope). We had trouble hearing him. The Virgin is visible and audible from there. There was also an updraft that may have made communication more difficult. I conferred with Jeremy and Shannon and we agreed Louis had said that the rope was too short. I believe he repeated it and added that the end of the rope was eight feet short. This was almost certainly inaccurate. I was shown Tom’s Rave photos five days after the accident (taken from the bottom looking up). I was horrified. Louis said, “I need you to send down the other rope". Up top, we all realized immediately that we didn't have one. Louis realized this as well as I remember panicked silence after that. I went down and left to the “old anchor” site, a tree at the edge. I could now see the top third or so of the line and could now hear Louis clearly. I could not see him or what exactly he was facing. Both our minds were racing. I shouted down an idea, Louis quickly rejected it. I started to say something else and Louis said "Everett, shut up" in a panicked voice. Very little was said, there wasn't time. Based on the sounds I heard next, I can only use conjecture as to what happened. Louis either slipped off the end of the rope or intentionally let go, thinking he could make a landing. I believe it was the latter, perhaps that's what I need to believe. Louis said "Oh, Shit". I think back to our trip to Waterslides Canyon in AZ. Sitting at the top of the first slide, just as I let go to take that first plunge, I said "Oh Shit". It was an anticipatory exclamation, like "I know have to this so here goes" kind of thing. That's the immediate impression I had of Louis' Oh Shit. He did not scream or yell at that point. Then a series of the worst kind of sounds you hope you'll never hear: He landed quickly but didn't stop. Shannon first described what she heard next as "a commotion". To me it sounded like a rolling or tumbling. Then a terrible short scream, a sickening short pause, and a final awful crash.
I have brave friends who did Not Imlay about a week later. Based on information from one of them, Louis was likely 20' from a landing, But it slopes downward and there are two ledges after that, neither of which could've stopped him. So the tumbling I thought I heard was likely a fall from ledge to ledge. What could've happened before that "oh shit" moment? Louis should've have looked for the bottom of the rope sooner, he should've tied off immediately, we should've established clear communication sooner, he could've hung on that rappel for 20 minutes, 2 hours, what ever it took. We could've figured something out if given the time to calm down and think carefully. I'm not going to list possible solutions because I frankly don't know if my ideas would've worked. Louis didn't have ascenders (the rest of us did!). We had always assumed we could share one pair. We have had to ascend due to stuck ropes four times (everyone needs to practice this skill more). I carried the ascenders, I was the climber. If given time we could've found a way to get ascenders to Louis. It's important that everyone understand that he was on the rope for just a few minutes before he dropped or fell.
I do not follow the canyoneering blogs. Louis did that for us. I now know enough to get this posted and I did read some of the thread when looking for what Jeremy and Shannon posted. I may not have the time or emotional fortitude to answer any queries posted. I hope anyone reading this will gain some insight and better prepare for their own adventures.
On the beautiful, terrible day this happened, as I was rushing back out the long approach, I kept looking at the vista. At the bus stop waiting for a ranger to take Shannon and I to the park offices, I kept looking up through the cottonwoods at the bright and imposing cliff face. After getting the awful, final confirmation that Louis was gone ("foxtrot" they said in code over the park radio), I was taken from the park and kept looking up at the towering formations. I was in an altered state and everything looked mockingly glorious but I was gaining solace from the powers of Mukuntuweap. I've not been back to Zion yet. At first I wasn't sure if I'd ever cannoneer again. Now I'm certain I will. As anyone can surmise from our photos and posts, Zion and Wilderness in general serves as our refuge and our life force battery charger. I intend to be back out there with a cautious vengeance, adventuring for the both of us.
Get in the Wild
10-17-2015, 02:30 PM
Thank you very much for taking the time to share your thoughts and story Everett. I'm confident as you recover and move forward in pursuit of your canyoneering passions, your wonderful memories of Louis will be with you each and every step of the way!
Iceaxe
10-17-2015, 05:28 PM
Everett, thanks for sharing such a difficult experience. I wish you well.
tanya
10-17-2015, 05:34 PM
Deepest sympathy on the loss of your husband dear.
Sombeech
10-18-2015, 11:24 AM
Thank you for posting, Everett
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Thank you Everett for sharing your story.
And thank you to others on Bogley and CC for being supportive and not critical.
If we can ever do anything for you Everett (and Shannon and Jeremy) please let us know!
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kiwi_outdoors
10-18-2015, 02:56 PM
Everett, thankyou so much for posting the first-hand account. Its a must-read for all of us.
nkanarik
10-18-2015, 10:42 PM
It regards to this accident, rappelling single or double strand is a non-issue in my book as a competent canyoneer should know how to a ascend both types of situations. And if you only know how to ascend single strand I hate to break the bad news to you but you're not a competent canyoneer.
Was wondering if there's a different way other than prusik for double strand, while on the rope. I don't consider carrying 4 tiblocs as a viable option (normally I'd expect folks to carry two ascenders at the most).
ratagonia
10-18-2015, 11:31 PM
Was wondering if there's a different way other than prusik for double strand, while on the rope. I don't consider carrying 4 tiblocs as a viable option (normally I'd expect folks to carry two ascenders at the most).
Stone knot the strands before you go down.
Bachman knot seems to work best, of the sling knots.Works well with 11/16" slings.
Notice that if you use a Bachman knot for your top ascender, then you can use your two tiblocs as the bottom ascender.
You can also change it into a single-rope climb, kinda sorta. Tie off one end to your harness, climb the other strand (require the rope to pully through the top effectively, which is rarely the case.
:moses:
qedcook
10-19-2015, 03:27 PM
One thing I've noticed about myself and doing canyons I've done before, unless I read the beta again closely, I always find myself in a bit of a difficult spot because of this detail or that detail that I forgot. It's SO easy to assume you know the details that you need to know, because you've done the canyon before. I know for myself, it's SO important to re-read beta.
nkanarik
10-20-2015, 07:05 PM
Stone knot the strands before you go down.
Bachman knot seems to work best, of the sling knots.Works well with 11/16" slings.
Notice that if you use a Bachman knot for your top ascender, then you can use your two tiblocs as the bottom ascender.
You can also change it into a single-rope climb, kinda sorta. Tie off one end to your harness, climb the other strand (require the rope to pully through the top effectively, which is rarely the case.
:moses:
Thanks Tom. When I said Prusik, I should have said Bachman...just used to the generic term of Prusik as a friction hitch. Liked your Hybrid solution...will try it one day. Don't know if I'll go for the single rope conversion though :)
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