Figure 8 in canyon mode

[Attila]

I've seen this term used and wonder what it's pros/cons are. As I understand it, instead of the bight of rope going thru the 8 and around the neck, it goes through the 8 and then down around the carabiner instead. The only differences that I can see are: 1- no chance of girth-hitching and 2- slightly less friction.

Please educate me more!

[Kuya]

Also makes it easier to get on and off of rappel, and lessens your chance of dropping the rappel device in a water disconnect.

[ratagonia]

I've seen this term used and wonder what it's pros/cons are. As I understand it, instead of the bight of rope going thru the 8 and around the neck, it goes through the 8 and then down around the carabiner instead. The only differences that I can see are: 1- no chance of girth-hitching and 2- slightly less friction.

Please educate me more!

It is perhaps more accurate to say 2- significantly less friction.

Tom

[Scott Card]

It is perhaps more accurate to say 2- significantly less friction.

Tom True that! A LOT more speed (less friction) for my current body mass.

[deagol]

I only use it on very low angle rappels due to very low friction.. it's the same setup as used when belaying with a fig 8

[ratagonia]

I only use it on very low angle rappels due to very low friction.. it's the same setup as used when belaying with a fig 8

There are several different ways to belay with a fig 8 - so this is not a rigid designator.

Tom

[deagol]

There are several different ways to belay with a fig 8 - so this is not a rigid designator.

Tom

True, but it is the way I did it with a fat climbing rope "back in the day"....
Back to "canyon mode": I have found it useful for slab-type rappels where I don't want to fight the friction. Also, seems to twist the rope less ?

[lucach]

As they said, Canyon mode" provides SIGNIFICANTLY less friction. It also twists the rope less.

Canyon mode in single strand on a high angle rappel is dangerous.
If you are going to rappel double strand or on a 10mm rope, then it "may" be ok.

There are some times where canyon mode is preferred, here's an example:
It's good for guided rappels, where you usually rappel at an angle clipped to a rope that guides you.
It's good when self-belaying while deploying rope, when you tie one end of the rope to your harness and rappel on the other strand, this is usually to set up complex/crazy rebelays
It's also preferable if you are going to go through a dangerous waterfall where in danger of getting stuck, better a broken leg than drowning
It's also preferable if you are doing a toboggan and want to slide it down but still control or cap the speed

FYI, if you like the 8 in canyon mode check out the Petzl Pirana.
The Pirana is a Figure 8 that is always in "canyon mode" but adds friction with horns, either on setup or on the fly (6 modes).
Therefore, it has all the advantages of the "canyon mode" (quick connect/disconnect) and none of the disadvantages (lack of friction)
This makes it ideal for swift water canyons, that's why Pirana is the predominant canyon descender in the world (except USA).
In the USA, because of the dry canyons, you can use pretty much anything... 8, ATC, ATS, Totem. Even a munter knot on a carabiner will work.