Alcatraz Canyon Rescue

[Iceaxe]

WAYNE COUNTY

[Jolly Green]

A rescue at night? In the freezing cold? Props to S&R.

[ratagonia]

sigh, but happy it all seems to have turned out OK.

Tom

[rick t]

Just my opinion of course, but two people in a technical canyon is one too few. When it hits the fan it would often be different with another body there to help.

[Iceaxe]

All things being equal, I really enjoy canyoneering as a pair. It might be my preferred dynamics when I'm not canyoneering with the family. You get a lot more action with problem solving, navigation, rope work, route finding, ect.... many of my most memorable trips were done as a pair.

Provided the group is all competent larger groups tend to spread the work load. If I wanted an easy day I'd just lay on the couch and watch TV.

Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[rockgremlin]

...many of my most memorable trips were done as a pair.


Yeah, like that time you and Hank went out together to North Wash...hehehe

[price1869]

Yeah, like that time you and Hank went out together to North Wash...hehehe

Wuv, sweet wuv....

So, anyone know these guys?

I don't know Rick T, but I have to agree with him. Just two is one too few. Kindof like how you never bring just one Mormon fishing with you.

[ratagonia]

Is this a great country or what?

People can go canyoneering in small groups. Freedom, People.

Tom

[Iceaxe]

Yeah, like that time you and Hank went out together to North Wash...hehehe

Silly pony... Chris was with us on that trip forcing us to form a death defying triplets group.


Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[ratagonia]

Silly pony... Chris was with us on that trip forcing us to form a death defying triplets group.


Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

Three Part Har-Mony!!!

[ratagonia]

Just my opinion of course, but two people in a technical canyon is one too few. When it hits the fan it would often be different with another body there to help.

There is certainly somewhat more risk in undertaking a canyon with a small team.

There are other things we do that have "more risk":

- driving at night in deer terrain
- driving too late too tired too far too fast
- bringing beginners into canyons
- not paying attention to the navigation
- canyoneering
- not using perfect technique when doing bottom belays
- etc.

So, yeah, let us be aware that two is a small team, especially when one of those gets stuck or hurt.

Tom

[deagol]

you left out base jumping !

[Jaxx]

There is certainly somewhat more risk in undertaking a canyon with a small team.

There are other things we do that have "more risk":

- driving at night in deer terrain
- driving too late too tired too far too fast
- bringing beginners into canyons
- not paying attention to the navigation
- canyoneering
- not using perfect technique when doing bottom belays
- etc.

So, yeah, let us be aware that two is a small team, especially when one of those gets stuck or hurt.

Tom

I am so good at belaying I can text and belay at the same time. I use the screens reflection to watch the climber/rappeler. It's pretty sweet. That's a perfect technique right?

Glad it turned out ok for those bros. I had a couple times that I didn't think I was going to be able to push any more air out of my lungs and squeeze past a spot. Luckily I did...

[ratagonia]

you left out base jumping !

Base Jumping is not in the category "more risk".

Tom

[ActionPacker]

Glad they got out and that the partner was competent enough to get out on his own.

Two weeks ago I almost got stuck in Quandary Direct with a two man team. The intent was to hike the bypass but somehow ended up taking the wrong route and ended up back in the canyon without bypassing much of anything. We were not prepared (gear wise) to manage the keepers and natural anchors that are part of Direct but with the extra gear I had (I always carry extra) and some creative problem solving we made it through. It took 12 hours and several miles by headlamp to get back to the car. By the time we reached cell service we were over 5 hours late and my wife was already on the phone with the sheriff dispatch saying, "Don't deploy yet but there is a chance my husband is stuck in a canyon".

All in all, a great trip and overcoming the technical challenge of Quandary Direct was rewarding.

BTW- if S&R is called out, do the rescued get a bill in the mail or is that part of a county budget?

[recinutah]

Interesting that the discussion turned to whether 2 is enough for a canyoneering group. I'd say it depends on the canyon. The more complications and technical difficulties a canyon has, the more brains I'd want to navigate it and to enhance rescue, as well as self-rescue, options. Also, when guiding greenies through a canyon, I'd want at least 3 competent canyoneers in the leadership.

I do know Matt Hickenlooper and he's doing just fine now. I think almost every canyoneer can come up with a story where they came out late or ran into problems or had a near accident. There is always an elevated risk in this sport, so play safe out there.

[Iceaxe]

BTW- if S&R is called out, do the rescued get a bill in the mail or is that part of a county budget?

I believe Grand County is the only county in Utah that bills for SAR. All counties have the option to bill you if they desire. The National Parks do not bill for SAR.

FWIW: Here is a pretty good thread on the subject.
http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthread.php?65782

[qedcook]

We saw some Wayne County SAR vehicles out just a few miles down from Texas Hill on our drive home from the Roost today. Maybe training?

[burley]

Well, here’s my version of the events—as the one stuck; for armchair analysis, and hopefully some valuable take-aways to benefit those that read. I will say that the fear of judgment is outweighed by the hope of benefit to the masses. It’s very long so I’ve broken it up into sections in order to allow the reader to jump around.

Summary
The news got it mostly correct. On April 2nd 2014 as we descended Alcatraz canyon I slipped and got stuck around 2:30pm. We tried to get me out before deciding that Zach would go for help. SAR came earlier than expected (10pm) and I was out by 1:30am. I’m very grateful for everyone who helped out that night.

About Me (and Zach)
My first canyon was in 2004 and I’ve been out quite regularly the last three years. I’ve done Keyhole three times so I guess you could say I’m pretty experienced.:haha: I’ve also done Heaps, Imlay, and a dozen North Wash canyons among many others. I’m what Shane would call a ‘large-framed canyoneer’ and thus have no desire to do truly skinny canyons like Shenanigans. I tend to be cautious. I should be in better shape. My fiend Zach has fewer canyons under his belt but has good rope skills, solid experience in canyons, and climbs more than I do. We had a friend coming to join us a few days later but had planned on a few days of canyons on our own, something we had done several times before.

Canyon Prep
Neither of us had previously descended Alcatraz but had read several sources of beta and several trip reports. We packed “light” for this canyon, but between us we had the following gear: harnesses, helmets, 100ft 8mm rope (we left the other rope tied to the truck at the entry rap), 4ft sling, PAS and daisy chain, knee/elbow protection, tiblocs, prussic loops, jacket and hoodie, gutra, small emergency/first aid kit (including matches and emergency blanket), cliff bars and shot blocks, two liters of water and two Gatorades, and our brains. It was cold out (maybe 35 when we started, 25 at 1am?) so we were dressed warm (long sleeve wool). We started ‘late’ assuming we would be back at the truck by 5pm, well before dark, and with plenty of time to get to Sandthrax to set up camp and cook a nice dinner.

Elevation View of Rescue Setup
Obviously not to scale, and distances are approximate, but I hope it gives a better picture of the setup. Also, quantity and roles of SAR members are based on my limited memory and limited understanding of SAR.
72646

Timeline
All times are approximate. I could be off, but not by much.

12:30pm Finished lunch at the trailhead and rapped in. We took our time through the canyon.
2:28pm We are forced to walk through a very muddy, shin-deep pothole. My shoes were caked with mud which I tried to wipe off as much as possible.
2:30pm About 85% through the canyon I watch Zach move horizontally through a tight 15ft section like a pro, he then downclimbs to the ground. I follow without giving proper consideration. 10ft through my foot slips 2 inches. I make several moves to recover, each slipping a couple inches more, before realizing I need help. Zach tries but he’s too far away. By the time he climbs up above me, I’m wedged in from my thighs to my chest. My feet were barely touching the ground but were limited to about 1” of vertical movement. The whole area (vertically and horizontally) was narrow enough that help from below (helmet stand) and the sides was impractical, and there wasn’t a solid stance above to offer much help.
3:30pm After rigging a foot-loop and managing to raise me about 4 inches, as well as trying brute force from above, we decide I’m not getting out without additional help. As we plan and divide up gear it begins to snow.
5:00pm I finally figure out that I can fit my nano-puff over my head and suck in enough to squeeze it between myself and the rock.
5:20pm Zach reaches the car and drives until he has cell service.
5:40pm With reception, Zach calls 911, reaches Emery county and gets re-routed to Wayne County Sherriff. After discussion the Sherif, the decision was made to mobilize immediately due to the temperature, my physical contact with the cold rock, and my wet feet.
6:00pm I realize that I can fit Zach’s hoodie over my head, and then manage to get it down around my waist. My core begins to warm up.
7:00pm Zach meets Sherif at Highway 24 and drives to the airfield to meet SAR. Briefs SAR on situation and location. At least a couple SAR members are familiar with the exact spot Zach describes (the GPS point we took in the canyon was fairly close as well).
8:00pm It’s dark.
9:00pm SAR is completely assembled and waits for the helicopter to airlift to canyon.
10:00pm Helicopter flies overhead for the first time. It passed several times before the spotlight sat on me.
10:45pm I hear voices above me and we yell back and forth for maybe 20 minutes until they get closer and we can understand one another. SAR begins to set up high angle tripod but struggles placing bolts due to soft rock.
12:15am First SAR member reaches the ground, 5ft up canyon of me. He calls for another member to descend to the ground just down canyon of me.
1:00am I connect to the main rope via my PAS (there was no way to reach my belay loop directly) and a 5:1 MA system hauls me up while I work to free myself by pulling on a prussic attached to the same rope. Less than two minutes later I’m finally free and re-attaching the main rope, as well as a belay line, to my belay loop.
1:15am After 5 or so resets of the MA system I’m on top (200ft cliff + 50ft scramble to the tripod location). A fire has been built and I drink some water, take a much needed pee, and I warm up there for an hour—my jackets are below since I removed them to help squeeze out. My stomach begins to hurt.
2:00am The stomach pain is severe and I force myself to throw up several times, no help.
2:15am The two SAR members are hauled up and everyone packs up. My short helicopter ride to the trailhead where vehicles await is followed by several more trips to haul the rest of the team and gear to the trailhead.
2:45am After sitting in a warm vehicle for a half hour Zach calls over the medic due to the worsening pain and they determine it would be best to airlift me to an ambulance in Hanksville.
3:00am I get in the ambulance and the EMTs explain that the pain is likely just caused by Adrenaline. At this point it’s the worst stomach pain I’ve ever had. An IV, oxygen, and human touch help the pain significantly.
4:30am I arrive at the hospital in Price without pain but am checked out anyway.
6:00am Zach meets me at the hospital and I check out.


Other things that happened while I was stuck.

I focused on keeping warm and little else. I estimate that 80% of the 10 hours I was stuck was spent wiggling my legs and toes.
I knew I should drink water but it was cold. I warmed up my water by putting the Nalgene to my chest and breathing on it for an hour, but then realized that if I drank much I would have to urinate on myself, thus making me colder. I ended up drinking only 8oz. I ate two packages of Shot Blocks. A third fell to the ground in the dark and could not be reached.
The Cliff Bar we had and my headlamp on my helmet somehow got left 4ft from me completely out of reach. Not a big deal until the helicopter flew overhead and I wished I had a light to flash.
I thought a lot about what I needed to say when Zach showed up, or when SAR showed up. I reviewed my medical history and condition over and over in my head. I recognized my mental state may deteriorate and I needed to focus on the essentials. I also thought through haul angles and possible bolt locations. I knew I would need to be lifted up and slightly down canyon to avoid getting stuck further. I thought about my wife and kids and Zach and his wife. I mostly just focused on moving my legs to keep warm.


Thoughts

Wayne County SAR was great. I’m extremely appreciative for all they did. Same goes for the helicopter pilots and the Ambulance EMTs. What a great group of people, enough good CANNOT be said about them.
I was NOT expecting to see anyone that night. I was however quite pleased that SAR came out on a dark night in the cold. They could have been home in their beds with their families.
One factor in our decision-making was the snow. Though it only snowed for a few minutes it happened right as we were deciding what to do and as we separated. We may have made different decisions otherwise, leaning more towards self-rescue.
When faced with a situation like mine, the decision-making process is a tough one to analyze, and an even harder one to prepare for. So many micro-conditions influenced our decisions; some are more important than others, and some seemed more important at the time than they do now. It was difficult to think about the big picture when stuck in such a small place.
I have thought a lot about the decisions we made. I feel good about the gear we took. I feel OK about the choice of canyon. I feel not so good about my physical conditioning at the time. I question constantly whether we should have had Zach attempt an MA haul once he got out.
Self-rescue is something I believe in, I am very frustrated with myself that it didn’t happen. I’ll probably question this over for a long time. Many factors could have tipped the situation towards self-rescue and away from SAR. A third (or fourth) person, physical conditioning, weather, time of day, remoteness of the canyon, and many others.
I felt (and continue to feel) quite a few things: gratitude for the many people who came to my aid, guilt for putting my fiend and SAR in harm’s way; shame and embarrassment for needing rescue, anger towards self (especially immediately after getting stuck), concern for how the news would impact my wife and Zach’s wife, and cold—I felt very cold.
I kept fairly calm throughout. I knew Zach was competent and that I’d be OK for a day or two. I felt like it was much easier for me to remain calm than Zach (after all, there wasn’t much I could do and I knew it).
I was surprised at the attention this got (I had calls from Good Morning America etc.). To me this is a sad reflection of our news system. My experience really wasn’t that special or noteworthy, though it could have been without the awesome action by Zach and SAR.
My wife is a rock. She didn’t stay up all night, and tells me she didn’t really worry. She’s done a few canyons here and there and knows Zach well, so I think having confidence in what he was telling her and understanding the risk / situation was helpful.
We had told my wife that if we didn’t call her that night on our way to North Wash that we were in trouble. She was to call SAR at 10pm, but heard from Zach at 6pm.
I’ve read plenty of accident reports, been through Wilderness First Aid courses with their accompanying stories, and had things go wrong before, but this experience really opened my eyes:

How big of a deal the SAR effort was. About 20 people total, helicopter, trailers full of gear. Don’t get me wrong, I understand why, they have to go in loaded for bear because they don’t know me, they don’t know the situation, and they’ve seen some pretty bad/tough stuff in Wayne County recently. But it still surprised me.
How mentally, physically, and emotionally challenging it can be to be stuck--and I wasn’t hanging with my chest compressed, a broken bone, or a significant injury. Everything was more difficult, from thinking to drinking.



MOST IMPORTANTLY
Zach’s helmet mounted video camera fell off his head and into a small crack at about the same time I slipped, we had planned to go after it but seconds later we had something else stuck in a crack…If anyone finds it and is able to pull it out, Zach would be very grateful to get it back and I’ll make sure you get a cold beverage of your choice.

[jman]

Wow, didn't realize it was you burley. Thanks for sharing. Talk about an amazing friend Zach! And of course SAR did a outstanding job.

Thanks for being humble enough (as we all learn from our mistakes) to post your experience.

[Iceaxe]

Nice critique, thanks for sharing.

Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[Erik B]

Well, here’s my version of the events—as the one stuck; for armchair analysis, and hopefully some valuable take-aways to benefit those that read. I will say that the fear of judgment is outweighed by the hope of benefit to the masses. It’s very long so I’ve broken it up into sections in order to allow the reader to jump around.

What??? No Pictures?!?!? :roflol: Kidding buddy!

Your summary was fantastic. ...Analyzed like a true engineer.

Thank you for having the cahones to reply to this thread. We can all take something away from this.

[oldno7]

Thanks, Burly:2thumbs:

[deagol]

Wow, I would hate to be stuck in Alcatraz. Good job keeping calm in there! Glad things turned out OK.

[recinutah]

I can see it now...the sequel to 127 Hours. "Escape from Alcatraz!"

Matt, you can still lead my canyoneering adventures any time.

[Sombeech]

Thank you for having the cahones to reply to this thread.

X2

[rockgremlin]

There is certainly somewhat more risk in undertaking a canyon with a small team.

There are other things we do that have "more risk":

- canyoneering




LOL :haha:

[accadacca]

Thanks for the write up burley. Excellent stuff. :2thumbs:

[Wasatch Rebel]

Awesome. I'm glad you made it out in one piece. Did you ever think of Aron Ralston while your were stuck?

[COgirl]

It was crazy reading the story and thinking, "Hey, that's the guy that rescued my trekking poles from Heaps!" Glad you made it out safe and sound.

[qedcook]

One thing I've learned from this post, and others' experiences, about squeezing through tight canyons is this:

1) Never watch a skinny person go through stuff. It over-inflates your confidence in your ability to do it, and

2) Whenever you aren't sure if you are going to fit, always go straight forward through the squeeze part, never downward at all. That way it is very easy to reverse if it is too tight.

It sounds simple, but not always easy to follow.

[Iceaxe]

2) Whenever you aren't sure if you are going to fit, always go straight forward through the squeeze part, never downward at all. That way it is very easy to reverse if it is too tight.

If I'm not sure if I'm going to fit I immediately start gaining altitude as it allows you to use gravity to help squeeze through or reverse. And it always get's wider if you go high enough.

[Eric Holden]

X2
X4

[ratagonia]

Great summary and self-critique. Very thorough, very sober. And good job staying calm.

Tom

[peakbaggers]

So if memory serves me right, there have now been 3 "accidents" and rescues in Alcatraz in less than the last year. Two of them, I definitely remember something about wet and or mud and slipping. Are these accidents happening in about the same spot or has anybody analyzed this? Any thoughts?

[Slot Machine]

So if memory serves me right, there have now been 3 "accidents" and rescues in Alcatraz in less than the last year. Two of them, I definitely remember something about wet and or mud and slipping. Are these accidents happening in about the same spot or has anybody analyzed this? Any thoughts?

When we went through recently, I kept saying "Oh, this MUST be where Tuxedo Man got stuck." :haha: :ne_nau:

It seems like there are about 4 or 5 places where somebody could get stuck in there. None of them really stand out as more difficult than the others.

[ratagonia]

It is by far the hardest canyon in the area. Different from most of the other offerings in Roost, except Chambers, which has also had its share of events.

Tom

[Scott P]

It is by far the hardest canyon in the area.

Hardest well known one for sure. There are some harder R's and X's in the area though.

[Iceaxe]

Hardest well known one for sure. There are some harder R's and X's in the area though.

X rated in the Roost proper? I'm calling bullshit.... or you rate canyons different than I. Or maybe by area you mean in the same general area of the Roost.

To the best of my knowledge I have done, have beta on, or know someone that has been down every crack in what I consider the Roost and I can't recall any X rated canyons., maybe I'm forgetting something.

And for those keeping score at home you can toss the Squeeze Variation of Bluejohn into the mix of difficult Roost canyons that have resulted in multiple rescues.


Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[Scott P]

To the best of my knowledge I have done, have beta on, or know someone that has been down every crack in what I consider the Roost and I can't recall any X rated canyons., maybe I'm forgetting something.

Shane, I haven't done them, but I have it on good authority from reliable sources that there are some X and R canyons in the Sams Mesa Box complex. This is from some of the same crews whom have done many of the R's and X's in Escalante, so I trust that the ratings are accurate.

[ratagonia]

Shane, I haven't done them, but I have it on good authority from reliable sources that there are some X and R canyons in the Sams Mesa Box complex. This is from some of the same crews whom have done many of the R's and X's in Escalante, so I trust that the ratings are accurate.

... Interesting..............

T

[burley]

So a quick follow-up, I thought this post would be most appropriate on this thread than a new one, as it really speaks to the impact of my time stuck in Alcatraz.


After a summer of doing straightforward Zion canyons I finally got back into some more challenging canyons. We did a warm up in Wonderland Canyon and then descended Pandora's Box the next day. I strongly considered not going and had a pretty sleepless night the night before, but after re-reading beta several times and discussing my concerns as a group we felt good about it.


It was a first time through Pandora's for all of us, and was especially physical for a bigger guy like myself. What I hadn't really expected, but should have, was the emotional toll that Pandora's would take on me, and how the emotional impact made the canyon even more physical and draining. In addition to the mental and emotional exhaustion, there were several tight spots where I probably went higher than necessary (and thus worked harder) because of some flashbacks. One section in particular was very reminiscent of the spot where I was stuck, and once I got through I had to take a couple of minutes to gather myself together. I wouldn't hesitate to say that the emotional impact alone caused us to take a couple hours more than we otherwise would have (we were about 13 hrs car to car).


I had some great partners who were incredibly patient and very supportive emotionally and even physically a few times (thanks again for those knees and shoulders!). It was an incredible and beautiful canyon, and a good reminder of the 'softer' side of canyoneering and life.