New steel biner (relatively light)

[oval]

http://www.scarpa.com/edelrid/hms-bruce-steel-fg
71086


This is made by Edelrid. It's using the new hot-forged I-beam construction. At 156g, it's not crazy heavy compared to most steel biners that are well over 200g. A typical aluminum and rather burly Jake Keylock by Omega Pacific is about 99g.

Anyway, saw this and thought I'd share. It's nice to see steel biners dropping some weight.

[hank moon]

yeah, liking this trend...

this one inox (stainless)

http://www.austrialpin.at/safety/steel-karabiner/micro-inox.aspx

[Bootboy]

Stainless? Hot dipped? Painted ?
What's the finish on it

[ratagonia]

Stainless? Hot dipped? Painted ?
What's the finish on it

He gave you the link.

(Jus' sayin')

:moses:

[oval]

Stainless? Hot dipped? Painted ?
What's the finish on it
Yeah, wish I knew, but really doesn't specify more than just steel. I'm going to assume stainless but technivally they don't even say that. Still, pretty sweet looking design.

[oval]

Oh, was searching since hank got me interested and found some dmm upgrades, except even with I beam they are closer to 250g.

http://dmmprofessional.com/uploads/documents/I-Beam_Steel_Carabiners.pdf

[Lina5731]

Thanks for sharing.

[Bootboy]

He gave you the link.

(Jus' sayin')

:moses:

I noticed.

I guess I was asking because there might be a remote chance that the OP knows more about the product than is contained in the link.

I'm going to assume it's NOT stainless, based on the price and the fact that it's not specified in the link.

Usually a galvanized or chromate finish on alloy steel is the default for steel biners.

[oval]

Well, it's hard to say.

I think the price is simply because this steel biner is designed as a climbing biner with minimal weight. Most steel biners are for industrial purposes and are quite thicker and heavier and use more steel.

Of course I could be wrong, and you are right to err on assuming non-stainless. I'm interested enough to try it, so I'll buy it when I get the chance and keep you all posted. Lighter steel biners are hard to come-by, and it looks like this one was made with some nice climbing I beam design in mind. TTFN

[whansen]

Did you see the light weight steel belay/rappel device Edelrid is selling as a combo with that steel biner? It's called the Mega Jul. Has anybody used it? It looks pretty cool from the videos. To bad its out of stock.


Mega Jul + HMS Bruce Steel FG


http://www.scarpa.com/images/products/E717970006630/detail.jpg



http://www.scarpa.com/edelrid/megajul-hms-bruce-steel-fg

[Slot Machine]

That looks pretty cool, I like how the yellow wire thingy is away from the tube part of the ATC.

When rappelling on extremely muddy ropes, I've had troubles with the rope jamming where the 'up' rope exits the ATC.

If you turned the device around, then the 'up' rope would be clear of the wire, reducing mud collection in that area thus reducing the chance of a jam. I wonder if it would be kosher to use it in that fashion? :hmm2:

[whansen]

On this guys video he shows raping with it both ways. Wire out sets it up as an auto lock. Wire in normal rap device but no ability to add friction.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEU_R2z4YhY

[Slot Machine]

Sweet! Thanks for posting the link to that video! :2thumbs:

'Rap mode' at 4:23 is exactly what I was envisioning. The auto-locking belay mode looks pretty cool too. Going to have to pick one up. :nod:

[ratagonia]

On this guys video he shows raping with it both ways.


Hmmm, a new kind of object rape?

:facepalm1:

[Taylor]

Evidently spelling correctly matters no more. "Raping both ways" means something radically different than "rapping with it both ways". By the way, aren't you supposed to be at Freeze Fest by now? If I go down Monday night and stay through New Year's Day, will I get to do a canyon with you?

[oval]

Did you see the light weight steel belay/rappel device Edelrid is selling as a combo with that steel biner? It's called the Mega Jul. Has anybody used it? It looks pretty cool from the videos. To bad its out of stock.


Mega Jul + HMS Bruce Steel FG





http://www.scarpa.com/edelrid/megajul-hms-bruce-steel-fg



There is a 6 page thread on Mountain Project about this. It is very auto-assist centric. I'll let you read through the thread to see some of the drawbacks concerning rope feed. http://mountainproject.com/v/edelrid-mega-jul/108052298__1

That said, it also can lock if you "let go".

Pros and Cons, just like everything.

[whansen]

Yep that link shows it having problems. Like the wire coming off one side.

[oval]

Yep that link shows it having problems. Like the wire coming off one side.
Yeah, they are upgrading the biner to steel and also beefing up the wire attachment point, since people are holding it for extra leverage. When the steel biner and upgraded Jul come out I'll wait to hear more on the Jul.

[TKPH]

I'm going to assume stainless but technivally they don't even say that.

"Inox" is euro for stainless.

[harness man]

The Austrialpin biner is a stainless body with a brass gate. A few years back I worked with the North American distributor to develop this for stage and rigging use. There are other black colored biners out there but they are pretty bulky for for flying Peter pan. The black version has a durable "e-coat" which has held up pretty well in use. Two things that make it unsuitable for canyoneering tho: the 3 stage auto lock will certainly foul with sand and the thickness (bearing surface of the biner is only about .28" wide (just over 1/4 inch). A Petzl Attache is about .47" wide (almost a 1/2 inch). I am quessing that the sharp bend the rope will take might not be the smoothest for rappelling. The Dmm with twist lock may be better as a canyon biner. What we need is a SSteel biner with a round profile on the business end and the rest of it 'I' beam shaped.
Have tested the MegaJul on a couple rappels, and HATED it! Like the Metolius BRD it is designed to put intense pressure on the rope when there is a leader fall (auto-lock function without moving parts). Both of them made jerky rappels and tended to slide the sheath of the rope badly. Good for belaying, yuck for rappelling on canyon ropes.

[oval]

"Inox" is euro for stainless.
You are talking about the other biner that Hank linked by Austri Alpin. The OP is about the Edelrid Bruce, and unfortunately doesn't say stainless or inox.

[jman]

Did you see the light weight steel belay/rappel device Edelrid is selling as a combo with that steel biner? It's called the Mega Jul. Has anybody used it? It looks pretty cool from the videos. To bad its out of stock.


Mega Jul + HMS Bruce Steel FG


http://www.scarpa.com/images/products/E717970006630/detail.jpg



http://www.scarpa.com/edelrid/megajul-hms-bruce-steel-fg



I met the guy in the youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEU_R2z4YhY) that's posted below.

He is a Edelrid rep, and my friend Jeff and I talked to him while he showed it off at the '14 Winter OR Show. I tested it a few times at a local crag up in here in Davis County and it's actually a solid device for belaying (especially when you are feeding the rope to the climber).

Rappelling, however...I dunno. But I am gonna test it out tomorrow. Has anybody else given it a try?

[TKPH]

Amazon's description (http://www.amazon.com/Edelrid-Mega-Jul-Belay-Kit/dp/B00DUR3VLU) says the biner and the device are both stainless.

[whansen]

Just got the Mega Jul kit with the steel carabiner today from http://www.scarpa.com/edelrid/megajul-hms-bruce-steel-fg they're back in stock. I did a quick test in the back yard from my tree anchor. Love the steel carabiner. Like the Jul as a belay device. Hate the Jul as a rappel device. O and I was using a 9.2 canyonero. Also if your looking to buy the steel Jul and carabiner kit don't buy it from Backcountry. Online it shows the kit with the steel biner but if you call them they only have the aluminum one.