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PG Rob
09-19-2013, 09:33 AM
In the thread "Had to use the contingency anchor to lower" http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthread.php?69906-Had-to-use-the-contingency-anchor-to-lower, deagol asks about the last rappel in Heaps


Isn't this how many do the final rap in Heaps? sending first person down that way so they can retrieve a cached 300 footer ?I've practiced with contingency, but very rarely have rigged that way in the field.

I started thinking about this rappel and thought it would be a good idea to get some additional input and tips from the community on this rappel. The rappel is approx 285 ft. and it sucks carrying a 300 ft rope the entire way for that singular purpose. So, many will stash a 300ft rope at the bottom and rig a rappel and lower (similar to the contingency discussed).

Here are some of my thoughts to maximize the success rate on this rappel. In my thoughts, I assume that you will stash a 300ft rope and rig a rappel and lower for the first personStash the rope in a hidden place away from potential traffic

Leave a note that you are returning for the rope and please do not take it. Something to the effect of "if you take this, WE WILL DIE!!".
Better to have 1 person man the perch and help sequence each person down
2 people on the perch is crowded, 3 is terribly crowded
On the perch, each person should be connected to a safety line before they are off rappel
First person on ground should be one of the people that stashed the rope, so it can be retrieved easily
Small handheld radios assist in communication as it is difficult to communicate 280-500ft up and down the cliff (Bring 3 or 4)
Tie a backup knot in the end of the rappel rope for the rappel/lower
Tie EDK on rappel side of anchor for the rappel/lower
Tie end of rope into anchor to not lose it for the rappel/lower
Best to set up rappel in a way to add additional friction (Z-Rig)
Better to set up the lower in the same way you set up rappel, allowing for additional friction if needed
If you use a 200 and a 100 for the rappel/lower, better to rappel on the 200 and lower the 100.
Rope management on the perch sucks!
Double check and triple check each rappel

These are from my personal experience. I am interested in what tips or thoughts you have on this rappel in particular.

Kuya
09-19-2013, 10:25 AM
Just carry the 300' rope ;) it isn't THAT bad. I have only had the chance to do it twice now, :stud: and both times I carried the big rope. Besides, I have found the 300' rope quite useful in the canyon. especially at the beginning. I also don't like the idea of having to spend the hour or so to hike up to the bottom of the 300' rap to stash the rope. Why add miles and fatigue to an already long canyon? I guess I get pretty lazy when it comes to adding non essential miles to a trip.

Bootboy
09-19-2013, 03:42 PM
Yeah, I carried ours through. The day before the trip, I put it in a dry bag and then cinched webbing straps around it, as the air leaked out slowly I would continually tighten the straps. I got that rope smashed down so small it'd blow your mind. It packed down to about 8"x9"x13". Since it was dry the whole time, it never picked up any weight. It stayed comfortably nested in the bottom of my pack all day and was bone dry when we pulled it out. Looking back, the only thing I would do differently is dowse the rope in the last pool so it was wet and would stay cool on that long rap :D

ratagonia
09-19-2013, 10:48 PM
Yeah, I carried ours through. The day before the trip, I put it in a dry bag and then cinched webbing straps around it, as the air leaked out slowly I would continually tighten the straps. I got that rope smashed down so small it'd blow your mind. It packed down to about 8"x9"x13". Since it was dry the whole time, it never picked up any weight. It stayed comfortably nested in the bottom of my pack all day and was bone dry when we pulled it out. Looking back, the only thing I would do differently is dowse the rope in the last pool so it was wet and would stay cool on that long rap :D

We usually use the long rope on the second rappel (off the ridge), which is 210 feet. And then for the 2nd to last rap and the last rap. At the bottom of the 2nd rap it gets stacked in a drybag and sealed up.

At that point, no rappel in the canyon is longer than 60 feet. The first rap is very very close to 60 feet, so set the rope carefully on that one, if carrying 120s as your working ropes.

Tom

Bootboy
09-20-2013, 01:20 AM
Our working ropes were a 135' and an 80'. It worked very well. At the final sequence, We combined the ropes from raps 1 and 2 (135' and 210') to use as the pull cord for the final rap. This method allowed our group of 4 to complete the last 3 raps in just over an hour. Very efficient.

We thought about using the 300+' for rap 2 into phantom valley but I had it packed so well we just took a 210' which did end up seeing some use in the canyon.