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View Full Version : Preparing a new chain for wax???



Mtnseeker1
07-18-2013, 09:55 PM
Do I need to use like diesel or? to prep my chain before wax out of the box?

DOSS
07-19-2013, 05:24 AM
Do I need to use like diesel or? to prep my chain before wax out of the box?

I wax my bike chains and first time I use a good degreaser (engine degreaser) and then finish cleaning with brake cleaner.. This won't get 100% but gets more than enough especially if you are Hot waxing your chain.

Mtnseeker1
07-20-2013, 08:51 AM
Thank you DOSS.
Sounds like a good way to go all except brake cleaner. My chain has rubber x-ring that might get dried out with to harsh a cleaner.

DOSS
07-20-2013, 10:05 AM
Thank you DOSS.
Sounds like a good way to go all except brake cleaner. My chain has rubber x-ring that might get dried out with to harsh a cleaner.

Yeah.. skip the brake cleaner with the x-ring for sure then

Garbanzo
07-20-2013, 03:34 PM
How do you guys hot wax a chain? Or are you just talking spray wax? I just use Maxima chain cleaner, scrub with chain brush, then Maxima spray wax. Spins free.

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DOSS
07-20-2013, 05:12 PM
How do you guys hot wax a chain? Or are you just talking spray wax? I just use Maxima chain cleaner, scrub with chain brush, then Maxima spray wax. Spins free.

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I actually use hot melted wax with teflon additive in it, remove chain soak chain in the hot wax for 15 minutes then let it cool.. it gets the wax/ teflon into the chain not just on the outside of the chain

kiwi_outdoors
07-20-2013, 06:50 PM
just a couple of points on O-ring chain - the 0-rings keep grease-oil etc. in the pin-bushing interface - a high-load area. Waxing the chain wont help this area. The second really important area is the roller--bushing interface - same as escalator chain - it needs oil lubrication, not wax. We use drip oilers on escalators. The lube needs to be able to flow into the area, so it needs to be NOT too viscous or thick. Wax is a waste of time. So even though WD40 is not a lube - its ability to flow into the bushing-roller interface - along with suppression of rust - works quite well in practice.

Mtnseeker1
07-21-2013, 12:07 AM
Thank you all and your advice.
I think I got it now and thanks again.

Mtnseeker1
07-21-2013, 12:28 AM
Gotta love the simplicity behind Garbo. Clean the bitch wax the bitch and ride the bitch . How hard is that.:lol8:

Garbanzo
07-23-2013, 10:08 PM
just a couple of points on O-ring chain - the 0-rings keep grease-oil etc. in the pin-bushing interface - a high-load area. Waxing the chain wont help this area. The second really important area is the roller--bushing interface - same as escalator chain - it needs oil lubrication, not wax. We use drip oilers on escalators. The lube needs to be able to flow into the area, so it needs to be NOT too viscous or thick. Wax is a waste of time. So even though WD40 is not a lube - its ability to flow into the bushing-roller interface - along with suppression of rust - works quite well in practice.

Next time I take my escalator out riding, I'll remember not to wax the chain. Escalators don't spend a lot of time on a dusty trail .

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Mtnseeker1
07-23-2013, 11:46 PM
:facepalm1: Shit I thought this was pretty straight up but I was not sure I had it all down and up:lol8:

Does this mean no more wd after the wash and air compresser dry? You know before I wax?

Mtnseeker1
07-24-2013, 01:53 AM
Hey I'm easy I'll wax her before I wax me:lol8:
I know, Sounds either great or way off at 3 am.

I'm sure I can heat my chain up prior to a ride. LMAO

WE wont even get into the whole escalator thing at this point.

I'm tired of grease everwhere and want to wax her.:)

You know seems to get everywhere on the black rear.

2065toyota
07-24-2013, 07:45 AM
With the amount of time and money spent on oils / waxing / cleaning etc. Take it out of the box, put it on and ride it. They aren't that expensive especially when you remove the costs of maintaining them and just replace them when they get bad. And they really didn't last that much longer with full maintenance than with no maintenance.

Mtnseeker1
07-24-2013, 08:36 AM
Am I in the motorcycle area?
I meen My chain tensil strength is well over 7200 lbs. (NOTE:) not bicycle.....................
Hey just saying.
Sorry but my chain was well more the 100 smacks and we have not forgotten the sprockets that need to be replaced at the same time for proper wear have we?:lol8: Another 100 plus.

Anyways back to the beginning.

Do I or should I use Diesel or Karosene to clean the packing junk off my chain to------Oh hell never mind I'll get it and thanks for all the help folks.

accadacca
07-24-2013, 08:45 AM
I don't clean mine...I just ride. :bootyshake:

Braaaaaap!!! :ride:

2065toyota
07-24-2013, 08:52 AM
I don't clean mine...I just ride. :bootyshake:

Braaaaaap!!! :ride:

X2


Don't buy O ring chains, they cost more and rob power. If you're 450 no big deal, but it helps a lot on 250's. don't buy wax / oil. Don't spend the time. Then the cost goes down. I would still generally get a year out of the chain and sprockets. $150 / year to replace, pretty inexpensive compared to other sports. And no hassle.

Mtnseeker1
07-24-2013, 08:55 AM
Big bore 500 and I'm not about to take out a 5000k case from lack of knowledge.

Thank you Garbo for your help. Best advise a man can get so it seems.
You always have the right answers for me and I thank you.:2thumbs:
I can honestly say I have seen it all now.
NO wax, No oil NO SH*T

X-ring baby let's keep that mud and sand out............................................... ............

POWER the only way I can rob myself of POWER is to loose a chain:)

2065toyota
07-24-2013, 09:06 AM
Thats cool. Just giving my opinion was all. I've owned prob 15 bikes, raced motocross & desert. Used to ride 3 days a week. I've never lost a chain and only replace 2 or 3 chain/sprocket sets ever.

Even though your car manual says to change the oil every 8-10k miles, Jiffy Lube has convinced the general public 3k is what is needed.

It's just one of the things I didn't worry about. I would rather spend the time and money on suspension oils and gear oils that actually make a difference than chain oil. I just don't feel there was much long term benefit from it

Mtnseeker1
07-24-2013, 09:07 AM
Sorry that I am coming across as a total ass.
Not what I wanted to do but would be happy to ride with you as your so close and all.

2065toyota
07-24-2013, 09:09 AM
Its all good. It's all just opinions, same as everything in life

maChete
07-24-2013, 09:43 AM
X2


Don't buy O ring chains, they cost more and rob power. If you're 450 no big deal, but it helps a lot on 250's. don't buy wax / oil. Don't spend the time. Then the cost goes down. I would still generally get a year out of the chain and sprockets. $150 / year to replace, pretty inexpensive compared to other sports. And no hassle.

I disagree with that. I say ONLY BUY o-ring/X-ring chains. I ride a CR500 and a KTM 300. My CR will eat up a non o-ring chain 2 to 3 times faster than an O-ring type. And I can't feel any power robbing although I'm sure it does. It is one of the faster things up Choke Cherry and Sand Mountain and I don't really care if it robs a bit of power from my KTM. And probably the best thing about an O-ring type chain is you rarely have to adjust your axle stops because they don't stretch like a standard chain. Which brings me to the reason I say Chain wax is the best! Sand doesnt stick to it like oil type chain lubricants and it doesnt fling off and make a mess of your bike. I try to spray it on when the chain is hot, like right when I come in off a ride then let it dry on.
My chains last a long time using this method. Just sayin...:cool2:

Mtnseeker1
07-24-2013, 10:14 AM
Maybe not chain related but does anyone remember the Wilber Mine ???
Bearings that were sub pare god rest there souls.
I put my life on the line every time I ride and in short that is why I ask these questions.......................

2065toyota
07-24-2013, 01:25 PM
I don't deal with many chains anymore anyways. My time is now spent either hiking down canyons, or driving up them
68049

Garbanzo
07-24-2013, 09:29 PM
Lots of interest in chains. Don't clean or maintain your chain, put it on a stand and spin the rear wheel. Now spray a little cleaner on it, rub a chain brush, on it and then spray wax on it. Now spin the rear wheel. Hmmm....you might think that resistance has something to do with loss of power . That's why I maintain it. Yes, it does cost more, but I like it to spin as freely as possible. I've owned two bikes, rode 3 years now and have never raced. My chain is clean though. :D

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Garbanzo
07-24-2013, 09:30 PM
I don't deal with many chains anymore anyways. My time is now spent either hiking down canyons, or driving up them
68049

That's cool. On the correct forum it would be even cooler!

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2065toyota
07-24-2013, 09:37 PM
And I thought the canyoneering forum was touchy

Garbanzo
07-25-2013, 10:10 PM
Sorry, I get that way sometimes.

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Mtnseeker1
07-26-2013, 11:57 AM
I just want to free roll back for them hair pin turns as I don't know how to wheelie turn in single track yet.:lol8:

Well an maintain and protect my small investment in something that will get my sorry ass out of the deep bright hot ass desert. :2thumbs: