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View Full Version : Trip Report 7 - 14ers in 7 Days in the San Juans



BasinCruiser
06-29-2013, 06:26 PM
Vicki (my wife) and I have scheduled to spend the next week in the San Juans, alternating each day between bagging 14ers and going fourwheeling. The itinerary is to hike the following peaks: Shavano, Tabaguache, Uncompahgre, Wilson Peak, Handies, Sunshine, and Redcloud Peaks over the next week. We'll be taking the Grizz 660 on 4WD trails around Ouray and Telluride.

Home base is going to be at a motel in Montrose. While that is an average 2 hr drive to any of these trail heads, we figure it's worth it to come back to a nice motel to relax, eat, and get some good sleep each night during a long strenuous week with this much action planned. Last year, we camped near Ouray for a few days, while we hiked Whetterhorn and Sneffels Peaks. While it was nice to camp out in that wonderful beautiful setting, it was also difficult to come back from a long day of hiking to have to sit in the truck and wait for a 1/2 hr for the afternoon rain storm to pass over, before we can get out and cook some pork and beans and hot dogs on the Coleman stove. :fitz:

When we had originally planned this trip a couple of months ago, El Diente and Mt. Wilson with the traverse was the pinnacle hike on the itinerary. Reading descriptions and TRs of this epic hike and traverse, I was pretty excited and looking forward to it very much. I heavily studied the route across the traverse, and new more 10x more about this hike than any other. But, we were skeptical about the snow in the area, particularly with the snow in the collier coming down the SW slope of Wilson as we don't have any crampons or ice axe. Checking conditions, and receiving a confirmation from a recent summiter on 6/22 that the collier was still full of snow and definitely needed ice axe to come down it, and it wouldn't melt by this weekend, we had to bag the plans of doing these 2 peaks for this trip.:angryfire: As an alternate, we decided to replace them with the Shavano/Tabaguache duo. El Diente/Mt Wilson will have to wait for another trip back to Co. :cry1:

With this many peaks planned over the next 7 days, we're not sure if we're biting off more than we can chew, thinking we have more stamina and endurance than we actually do (or as my mom used to say, have eyes bigger than my stomach), or just plain crazy. But, here we are in Colorado, looking forward to a great week of fun, exciting and beatiful scenerio, great experiences, and and lot of hiking. Vicki has calculated that if we complete all of the hikes we have planned this week, we will have completed over 45 miles, and 19,000 feet of elevation gain.

Here's to hoping that the weather plays nice (we don't get rained out too much), and our bodies hold up and can last this fun adventure. :cool2:

Marty

BasinCruiser
06-29-2013, 06:55 PM
To start off our week, we decided to begin with Tabaguache and Shavano Peaks. With the TH about 2.5 hrs from Montrose, we new we needed to get up early to make a descent start at the TH to avoid the afternoon rains. With an alarm clock wake up call at 4:00 am, we gingerly got up, packed, and was on the road by 4:30. Because of some navigation issues trying to find the right road/route from Hwy 50 up to the trailhead, we didn't get started on the hike until 7:30. Driving up to the TH, there was already many clouds in the area, promising for a threatening day of rain on the mountain, letting us know that we needed to make very good time to get up and back down to minimize the rain damage and avoid the hazard of getting hit by lightning on the peak.

Getting started on this hike, it doesn't beat around the bush at all, either figuratively, or literally - no warm up casual hike with little elevation gain to start the fluids going and get the muscles stretched out.. It heads straight up the side of the mountain heading toward Shavano, at a good steep rate. We soon realize that it keeps this steep rate up the entire climb to the top, except only to get steeper and steeper as it goes. The good thing about this - it really doesn't take very long to reach the saddle and start heading up the ridge.

One thing that is different about this mountain is that there is virtually no vegetation on the ground. There are looming pine trees right and left, but little to no shrubs, bushes, or other vegetation on below the evergreen canopy. The ground if very dry and baron. As a result, there are many downed trees along the route that have fallen due to wind and water erosion around their roots.

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The dry ground not only makes results in lack of vegetation, it also results in a very dry, dusty trail to follow. Many places, it make for more energy sucking climb than one with good solid ground to walk on.

As we neared treeline, we could look out to the West and see the effects of the many Co fires that are currently raging, with a definite haze of smoke in the air.

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Here Vicki is nearing treeline.

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A look at the mountain opposite the face we traverse to the saddle.
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Traversing along the face towards the saddle.
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This is about the only switchbacks (seen near the saddle) on the whole trail.
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Looking from the saddle up toward the peak. Doesn't look very far or hi, except when you realize there are people on the ridge.
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Half way up the ridge, looking back down towards the saddle
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Vicki stopping to let me catch up
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Although it was quick work to get near to the top of Shavano, the bad part of this hike is, after ascending Shavano, you must descend to the next saddle, and then ascend Tabaguache Peak, seen in the distance with a few people on top, then retrace your steps back down and then up to the top of Shavano again.
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Vicki nearing the summit of Shavano.
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I finally summit Shavano, and look toward Tabaguache.
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Bacause of the looming clouds to the south, we don't stop at all to rest on Shavano. We head straight for Tabaguache.

Start descending and look back up to the summit.
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After descending to the saddle between Tabaguache and Shavano, Vicki starts the ascent up Tabaguache.
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After ascending the steep climb of loose rock that gradually turned to boulders, looking back at the descent and then climb back to the top of Shavano that we have to retrace to return back to the trailhead.
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From on top of Tabaguache, you can see in all directions the beautiful tops and slopes of many surrounding mountains.
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We could see that the clouds were really starting to gather around, and rain starting to fall in isolated locations.
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We knew we had to start moving and get down below treeline if we wanted to minimize the risk of lighting. So, we started heading back down the ridge toward Shavano. When we got back to the saddle, it started to lightly rain on us for about 5 minutes.

Then, half way back up the ridge to the top of Shavano, it came. A very loud thunder bolt that seemed to shake the whole mountain, and scare us to death. We could see a very dark and ominous cloud on the other side of the peak of Shavano from us. We were near the large boulders and contemplated hunkering down for 10 minutes or so to wait for what we perceived to be a small storm cell to pass over. After some discussion and a slight rest under a large boulder, we decided to start moving again and get down as quick as possible.

So, we got back up, and finished the 2nd ascent to the top of Shavano, to see the ever building clouds and rain coming our way.

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After taking a few shots at the top, we started the descent back down the west face of Shavano, heading as fast as we could to get below treeline. Half running, where we could, half taking quick steps, we made good time. But, not enough. We started hearing repeated bolts of lightning in the clouds above us, and could see the skies continue to turn darker and darker all around.

About 1/2 way between the saddle and treeline, it started hailing on us, which continued for the next 10 minutes. When the hail would hit our head, and especially our ears, it would sting. Half the time, I was half running with my hands over my ears to protect them from being hit by the hail.

Once we were well below treeline, we slowed down a bit to a brisk walk. At which point, the hail turned to a light rain, then eventually quit. But, we could still continue to hear thunder. Nothing can quite get your heart pumping and give you extra energy after climbing 2 peaks as we just did, like thunder chasing you off the top of a mountain. :crackit:

When we got about 1/2 mile from the trail head, it started raining on us again, and continued to get heavier and heavier until it was a fullblown downpoor just as we reached the parking lot, to jump quickly into the truck, which is where we sat for minutes watching it poor cats and dogs.

Then, we pulled out of the parking lot, drove quickly on the now rained out dirt road back to Hwy 50, and the completed the 2.5 hr drive back to Montrose.

Once we got back to our motel, we ordered a meal box from Pizza Hut. OHHH Yeah. After a nice hot shower, hot pizza, bread sticks, and cinnamon, we relaxed in our nice soft comfy bed, watched some TV and make the definitive conclusion: getting a motel room was definitely the right choice. Much better way to end and recover from a long day of hiking than the way we did last year. :haha:

What's up for tomorrow: going 4 wheeling near Ouray.

BasinCruiser
07-01-2013, 06:59 PM
We loaded the 4 wheeler up and drove to Ouray, and unloaded just out of town, at the beginning of the Camp Bird Road. Had a lot of fun riding around here. Will post over on the wheeling forum a TR.

BasinCruiser
07-02-2013, 08:00 PM
With Redcloud, Sunrise, Handies, and Uncompahgre Peaks still left on our itinerary, and needing to squeeze all 4 peaks into 2 trips to the Lake City area, we contemplated on the best way to group them. Should we equalize the hiking miles and elevation as much as possible between the 2 days by doing Uncompahgre and Handies Peaks in 1 day, and then Redcloud and Sunrise on another? But, that would require about a 3 hour transit between Uncompahgre and Handies?

Or, should we do Redcloud, Sunrise, and Handies all in 1 day, and Uncompahgre on another? That would mean only 1/2 hr drive between trail heads from Redcloud/Sunrise and Handies. However, that would be quite a few miles and a lot of elevation for day. Having just completed Shavano and Tabaguache yesterday, do we have the stamina, strength, and will power to actually consider doing 3 peaks in 1 day tomorrow, let alone actually doing them?

After much consideration, we decided it best to try and do all 3 peaks in 1 day. As such, with a 2.5 hr drive from Montrose to the 1st TH, we set the alarm clock for 3:30 am. At 3:10, Vicki woke me up as she had woken, and couldn't go back to sleep, and suggested we just get up then and go...so we did.

We hit the road at 3:30, and arrived at the Redcloud/Sunrise TH at 6:00, and started up the trail by 6:10.

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We hiked through some nice thickly wooded forest for a short while
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then the trees opened up as the trail inched toward the stream.
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The trail would continue next to the stream the rest of the way up the gully.
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We would be in trees again, until we descended back down from Sunrise, and come out on what we think will be this trail.
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As we are hiking, in case I had forgotten, my calves and quads remind me with each step that I had just completely worn them out climbing Shavano and Tabaguache. They let me know very well that I hadn't given them ample time to recover to do any amount of hiking, let alone to attempt to do 3 14ers in 1 day.

The trail continues to follow the stream up the canyon.
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All the while, I keep hearing something behind me, some relentless, annoying noise. I wasn't sure what it was, but ignored it as long as I could. Once I finally got tired of listening to it, I finally looked around to figure out what was pestering me, and found what it was:

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It was Handies Peak behind me, taunting me on: "You don't have what it takes. You can't possibly complete both of those 2 peaks, and then come and climb me as well. When you get down to the bottom of Sunrise, you're going to determine that you're just too tired, and give up and not climb me today."

I try and put his taunting to rest, and drown him out with will power and determination. But, he still calls as we continue to hike to the basin that rests just below the ridge to Redcloud Peak.

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Vicki takes a rest on a 'nice little bench' on the last remaining suitable rock to sit on, just before the ascent to the saddle to climb up to Redcloud.

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Looking up at the saddle and ridge-line:
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Believe it or not, there are 3 persons on that ridge-line. Here's a better closeup:

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As I look back down the gully that we have been ascending for the past hour or so, it is incredible to look at the varying colors of the rock, dirt, and vegetation on the mountain sides, ridges, and peak, with many variations of yellows, greens, and reds.
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It's also very interesting to see the jagged rock formations at the along the tops and ridges of the surrounding peaks.
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As we reach the saddle, the sun finally hits us for the first time, today, and the vibrant colors down in the basin come even more alive.
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As we look up the ridge, even though Redcloud Peak is finally in sight, we see the daunting task of the steep ridge before us:
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As the ridge gets steeper and steeper as we continue to climb, the sturdy dirt turns to mushy soft sands and very loose rocks, making for a difficult, vigorous climb, adding more difficulty to the ascent.
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After several switch-backs in the loose sand and rock, we eventually finish the bulk of the ascent, and Redcloud appears on the horizon, with a coupe more small hills and one more small steep section to go.
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Vicki completing the last steep section just feet from the top of Redcloud.
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and she summits Redcloud Peak. :2thumbs:
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From here, there are incredible views of the surrounding peaks and valleys throughout the San Juan's.

Here are Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn Peaks in the background.
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Looking to the West, we can see Handies Peak with the Wilson Group (Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente) in the background.
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Looking to the South, we can see our next target, Sunshine Peak. At first it looks like an easy trek across a simple ridge, with little descent and and distance between. But after we leave Redcloud, head across the ridge and around the 1st blind spot, we realize there is a several hundred foot descent and then reascend with a sizable distance before we can finally get to Sunshine.
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Looking to the east, we could see the smoke down in the valley from the South Fork fire that was blazing.
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Leaving Redcloud and heading along the ridge toward Sunshine, we could see the faint remains of the snow from the winter cornices along the ridge.
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As we round the final face that we could see from the top of Redcloud, we get our 1st glimpse of the descent and distance we still have to travel to summit Sunshine.
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https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=206118098598405095291.0004e12ab949ef78a943 7&msa=0

Magic_Hour
09-07-2013, 09:50 PM
Great report, thanks for sharing!