The Squeeze

[Slot Machine]

Sometimes I'm so happy when we finish a hike that I kiss my truck upon our return. Saturday was one of those days. On June 1st, 2013 Steph and I romped through The Squeeze. Arguably... it romped on us.

Just like individual people, every canyon has a personality. Mystery is charming and easy to be around. Shenanigans is a control-freak. Das Boot is like a blues guitar player; cool, smooth and unfettered. The Squeeze is like a billionaire's trophy wife. It's unspoken every minute of the hike:

"Mister, you're gonna pay if you want to play."

For just the two of us, this canyon was a daunting task. It's really a table set for four.

Knowing it would be a long day, we felt up to the task. Steph was amazing, bombing into potholes and delicately mantling out unassisted. Soon we arrived at the 'tough keeper'. The water was 18 inches below the exit lip, making a solo escape impossible. Steph dropped into the pothole and notified me that it was very cold, much colder than the other water that we had encountered. The clock was ticking as I readied a pack toss.

The ledge from which you launch your pack is very awkward. You must throw it hard to the left towards the exit lip, about 10-o'clock, from a fairly tight stance. One try... not far enough. Two tries... no. Three tries... splash! Not even close. Time to try a potshot. Good thing she's wearing a 7mm suit, or she would be frozen by now.

After 3 throws with a potshot, I land it on the far side of the exit lip. Steph has been in the pothole for 20 minutes and is beginning to get chilly. The lone potshot is 1/2 full.

Steph verrrry delicately pulls on the rope attached to the potshot. "Good enough" she says. Amazingly, she pulls herself out of the pothole and delicately places her elbows on the smooth exit lip. With the balance of a ballerina, she gently shifts her weight forward and mantles out of the pothole. From my perch I marvel at my wife's athleticism, my arms on fire from throwing stuff.

A thrilling scene from a thrilling day.
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We were very busy on this hike. I only had time to take 4 photos:


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Random facts that some Squeeze-bound canyoneer might find helpful:

We FLEW through the technical portion of the hike in 6hr 45min. Our round trip time (from Factory Butte) car-to-car was 12hr 20min. We wandered a bit, but not a lot. The approach hike from the Factory Butte TH is awful.

We completed about 18 rappels. Maybe more? Two small rope bags would have saved us about 30-45 minutes.

This hike is NOT suited for a team of 2. If one of us had suffered an injury, it probably would have been a disaster. Many partner assists are required to complete this canyon. A 4-6 person team is strongly advised.

Leap-frogging rappels would have saved us another hour (if we had a third 100-foot rope and a team of 4).

Bring at least 4 liters of water per person. You'll be working hard in a wetsuit for about 6 hours and you'll sweat most of the 4 liters out.

It's a LOT of work for a lot of good canyon action. Enjoy!

Bob

[hikster11]

Cool' I did this last year with a team of 5. I love that canyon so far it has been one of my favorites I've done. Having been through there I would never attempt with a team of 2. Your an Animal.

[spinesnaper]

Great canyon. Nice trip report-well done.:2thumbs:

[ratagonia]

Congrats, that's a hard canyon for a small team.

We usually do the throwing first, before anyone gets in the pothole, if it looks like it might be needed.

Tom

[Mountaineer]

Nice job to you both! Congrats.

When we hit that keeper, it was about 2' of water and at least 15' or more high to the lip. It is a tough one!

Long day, but worth it. Love that canyon, one of my favs.

[Iceaxe]

:2thumbs:
I miss the old days when we could drive to the cottonwood grove at the base of the Moroni Slopes.

[xxnitsuaxx]

Is it still bolted to hell or did someone make good on the threats and pull them?

[ratagonia]

Is it still bolted to hell or did someone make good on the threats and pull them?

That would be me generally doing the threatening. Lots of talk, not much action; so it is still all bolted to heck!

http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/canyoneering-the-squeeze-san-rafael-swell-utah-anchor-survey-sept-2012/

Tom

[Scott P]

Looks like you guys had a great trip!

[Slot Machine]

Congrats, that's a hard canyon for a small team.

We usually do the throwing first, before anyone gets in the pothole, if it looks like it might be needed.

Thanks Tom! It felt like a step up to the 'next level' for us. It was a good choice to test what we have already learned.

And for the pothole, Steph wanted to go in and scout it while I set up. She knew that it would take longer than the other potholes. She swam laps to keep warm in her super-thick wetsuit and felt fine once she climbed out. I was prepared to pull her out at any moment if needed. But generally, yes, the method you suggest is best. :nod:


I miss the old days when we could drive to the cottonwood grove at the base of the Moroni Slopes.

Grandpa Ice, could you tell us how you drove there and why it's not possible nowadays?

[Iceaxe]

At one time there was an old mining road from hidden splendor, though muddy creek gorge that connected to the factory butte road. It was closed by an agreement with the atv guys to get the behind the reef road opened.

Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[Slot Machine]

Is it still bolted to hell or did someone make good on the threats and pull them?

Austin, I'm glad you asked this question. It might make for an interesting discussion. Yes it's still bolted to hell, and threatening to remove the bolts from this canyon is a sadistic thought. Let me explain:

We found the canyon tippy-top full of water. The natural anchor solutions were very few. You might say "Well, if you had an Auganchor, you could probably ghost it." Well, yes... if you can bail enough water out of numerous 30-by-20 foot potholes... and if you had 6-8 very strong teammates... and if you had 18 hours of daylight.

Is ghosting this canyon possible under ANY condition (dry or wet)? I'd say it's possible, but would require a huclean effort by a large team of expert canyoneers. The risks would be very high.

So, where am I going with these ramblings? :blahblah: I have two thoughts:

First, this canyon seems to be bolted fairly. It is a challenge to complete this canyon in one day. Removing all of the bolts would likely turn this route into a 2-day hellish expediton. Even the purest of the purists would lose interest if it was 'clean'.

Second, if The Squeeze is going to exist as a bolted trade route, it should be bolted in the standard fashion; two bolts at each station. Rapping 80 feet from a single ancient piton is below my standard of 'safe'. Erosion will eventually take it's toll on the numerous single bolt anchors in this canyon, then eventually someone will get hurt or die. If I ever head through this canyon again, I'll first learn to bolt properly then back up the single bolt/piton anchors that currently exist.

Where there is one bolt in the The Squeeze, shouldn't there be two? :ne_nau:

[ratagonia]

First, this canyon seems to be bolted fairly. It is a challenge to complete this canyon in one day. Removing all of the bolts would likely turn this route into a 2-day hellish expediton. Even the purest of the purists would lose interest if it was 'clean'.

Second, if The Squeeze is going to exist as a bolted trade route, it should be bolted in the standard fashion; two bolts at each station. Rapping 80 feet from a single ancient piton is below my standard of 'safe'. Erosion will eventually take it's toll on the numerous single bolt anchors in this canyon, then eventually someone will get hurt or die. If I ever head through this canyon again, I'll first learn to bolt properly then back up the single bolt/piton anchors that currently exist.

Where there is one bolt in the The Squeeze, shouldn't there be two? :ne_nau:

It is kind of a dilemma.

It is well-known as a moderate technical canyons with lots of rappels and fun. Removing the bolts would make it a "test-piece" canyon, and people expecting something easier would be in big big trouble. So as much as I might fantasize about cleaning it up, it would be wrong. :facepalm1:

Removing the traverse line at the big keeper has made it significantly harder. There are a few more miscellaneous bolts that could be removed without making it significantly harder, and maybe these should be removed. I think adding these difficulties adds to the experience of the canyon, though I am expecting a rescue there any day now. (There used to be a fixed line across there, accepted as part of the canyon's hardware. It would get ratty, then someone would replace it.)

The beef is, as SM said, that the hardware currently in place is crap. There are not that many people around who know how to put good bolts in soft sandstone, and spending two days and $150.00 to bring the canyon up to spec seems like a lot of work, for a rap-and-swim kiddie canyon that could be a challenging test-piece. Thus, those who have the skills to put good bolts in are unlikely to be interested in the effort, and those interested are unlikely to have the skills and tools. What's a community to do??

I'm willing to support anyone interested in working on it with training and tools. Contact me via real honest-to-His-noodley-appendage email if interested. It took us about 5 years to bring the bolts in Imlay up to a respectable standard... I would expect it to take about the same in there.

Tom

[Scott P]

Is ghosting this canyon possible under ANY condition (dry or wet)? I'd say it's possible, but would require a huclean effort by a large team of expert canyoneers.

Steve Allen ghosted it solo.

[WorkBad]

It is always a pleasure to read your TRs, this one is no exception. I'm so impressed with the two of you on completing this canyon. I can't wait to give it a shot... maybe in a few years or so.

PS If you ever find yourselves in need of partners send me a PM.

[Slot Machine]

Removing the traverse line at the big keeper has made it significantly harder. There are a few more miscellaneous bolts that could be removed without making it significantly harder, and maybe these should be removed. I think adding these difficulties adds to the experience of the canyon, though I am expecting a rescue there any day now. (There used to be a fixed line across there, accepted as part of the canyon's hardware. It would get ratty, then someone would replace it.)

It is quite difficult, but makes for a VERY interesting obstacle. It was the most memorable part of the canyon, and I'm glad we didn't miss out on the experince.


Steve Allen ghosted it solo.

No.

****ing.

Way.


After going through, I just can't imagine that being possible. I'm not calling anyone a liar, it's simply a superhuman feat to ghost that canyon solo. Scott, do you have any other info as to how he did it? Was the canyon bone-dry?

[Iceaxe]

Steve Allen ghosted it solo.

I'm not buying that.... He might have used all natural anchors (which I believe is true) but he was not into ghosting.

While I have never done a route with SA, I have done many with some of his closet friends and canyon partners and they are not really into ghosting. What ghosting techniques SA and friends did know/use (at least at the time) are extremely primative by todays standards.

Also... SA was pretty dang cautious and used a lot of commonsense, so I have a hard time believeing he did the canyon alpine style and solo. SA was a fan of siege style when it came to the unknown. SA was also a very talented climber which as we all know helps make the difficult much easier.

:cool2:

[ratagonia]

I'm not buying that.... He might have used all natural anchors (which I believe is true) but he was not into ghosting.

While I have never done a route with SA, I have done many with some of his closet friends and canyon partners any they are not really into ghosting. What ghosting techniques SA and friends did know/use are extremely primative by todays standards.

Also... SA was pretty dang cautious and used a lot of commonsense, so I have a hard time believeing he did the canyon alpine style and solo. SA was a fan of siege style when it came to the unknown. SA was also a very talented climber which as we all know helps make the difficult much easier.

:cool2:

What he said.

Tom :moses:

[jman]

Pardon my ignorance here, but what's the current story with SA? I know the backstory to him, but what's the current one? Is he still active? Does he stay in contact with you guys? Is he afraid of the blogosphere/forum world? Is he focused on climbing these days? I've always wondered what happened to these pioneers...us youngsters are curious!

[WorkBad]

:popcorn:

[Slot Machine]

It is always a pleasure to read your TRs, this one is no exception. I'm so impressed with the two of you on completing this canyon. I can't wait to give it a shot... maybe in a few years or so.

Thanks for the kind words! :gents: I'll be in touch! :mrgreen:

[Scott P]

Scott, do you have any other info as to how he did it?

Steve Allen told me he has done the canyon using Dromedary water sacks. He filled the water the sacks up and let them drain while he rappelled down. It is entirely possible that I misunderstood (he didn't go into that much detail), but to me it sounded like he didn't leave anything behind.

[ratagonia]

Pardon my ignorance here, but what's the current story with SA? I know the backstory to him, but what's the current one? Is he still active? Does he stay in contact with you guys? Is he afraid of the blogosphere/forum world? Is he focused on climbing these days? I've always wondered what happened to these pioneers...us youngsters are curious!

Steve has had some health problems in the last couple of years that have really slowed him down. Some serious back problems, mostly. So it is harder getting out than in previous years.

Since he does not ego-blog in the interwebs, he does not "show up" much. He has never had all that much interest in well-traveled canyons or in tooting his own horn.

Tom

[Slot Machine]

He filled the water the sacks up and let them drain while he rappelled down.

Interesting. Scary. :eek2:

Using those bags as anchors would take at least two days. The filling and draining time would be significant. That is a crazy and impressive feat, if in fact he did it that way.

[hesse15]

Is it still bolted to hell or did someone make good on the threats and pull them?

could you please leave the bolts alone!!!!!!

[hesse15]

Thanks Tom! It felt like a step up to the 'next level' for us. It was a good choice to test what we have already learned.

And for the pothole, Steph wanted to go in and scout it while I set up. She knew that it would take longer than the other potholes. She swam laps to keep warm in her super-thick wetsuit and felt fine once she climbed out. I was prepared to pull her out at any moment if needed. But generally, yes, the method you suggest is best. :nod:

Grandpa Ice, could you tell us how you drove there and why it's not possible nowadays?

you are a pretty lucky guy, not only she is beautiful,but she does all the hard-scary work for you!!!!!!

when i did it i let Ryan play with the pothole ,i get cold too easy and the the guy was able to jump from the water up the lip 5 ft.
planning to do that in 2 weeks and try to get some testosterone guys and carry in case my potshot and a cheater stick.
heard about a short cut up to the moroni slope any info?

[Scott P]

heard about a short cut up to the moroni slope any info?


The "Miners Shortcut" has now been written up by Shane and Tom:

(http://canyoncollective.com/betabase/the-squeeze-from-the-top-via-miners-trail.63/)http://climb-utah.com/SRS/squeeze1.htm

http://canyoncollective.com/betabase/the-squeeze-from-the-top-via-miners-trail.63/

Is this the one you are referring to?

[Slot Machine]

you are a pretty lucky guy, not only she is beautiful,but she does all the hard-scary work for you!!!!!!

when i did it i let Ryan play with the pothole ,i get cold too easy and the the guy was able to jump from the water up the lip 5 ft.
planning to do that in 2 weeks and try to get some testosterone guys and carry in case my potshot and a cheater stick.
heard about a short cut up to the moroni slope any info?

Thanks for the kind words! Yes I am a lucky guy, no question. :nod:

Jump? WOW that is a feat!

Suggestion: Try the pothole without the cheater stick. It makes the pothole more interesting, and you certainly have the skills to conquer it.

I *think* we took the shortcut you are asking about. As you approach the Moroni Slopes from the Factory Butte trailhead, you will see a very clear path up the face. It's impossible to miss.

We took this trail, and it sucked. I'm guessing it is more difficult than the trail that originates from the cottonwood grove. But I don't really know. :ne_nau:

[hesse15]

Suggestion: Try the pothole without the cheater stick. It makes the pothole more interesting, and you certainly have the skills to conquer it.

I *think* we took the shortcut you are asking about. As you approach the Moroni Slopes from the Factory Butte trailhead, you will see a very clear path up the face. It's impossible to miss.
We took this trail, and it sucked. I'm guessing it is more difficult than the trail that originates from the cottonwood grove. But I don't really know. :ne_nau:

i have to check what Scott mentioned ,when I did it the approach suck,i remember we went up to an hill.
I will probably take a cheater stick anyway ,i never did any canyons with the 2 dudes I am going trough, so I want to cover my base in case i get cold and my energies are running low:cold:.
not planning to finish the canyon in the dark if I can!!!!
but probably will carry bleach's pills if I have to drink the pothole water!!!!:eek2:
lookin at the map collective is like Ryan,but i remember we went crossing the muddy creek up, i was just hoping there was a shorter way some how!

[ratagonia]

I will probably take a cheater stick anyway ,i never did any canyons with the 2 dudes I am going trough, so I want to cover my base in case i get cold and my energies are running low:cold:.
not planning to finish the canyon in the dark if I can!!!!
but probably will carry bleach's pills if I have to drink the pothole water!!!!:eek2:
lookin at the map collective is like Ryan,but i remember we went crossing the muddy creek up, i was just hoping there was a shorter way some how!

Are you approaching from Hidden Splendor or from Factory Butte?

I think the best trip is the Miner's Trail from Hidden Splendor, but it is not really any shorter.

The single bolt on the far side of the keeper is in an awkward place for using a cheater stick. Might not work.

Tom

[Erik B]

The ledge from which you launch your pack is very awkward. You must throw it hard to the left towards the exit lip, about 10-o'clock, from a fairly tight stance. One try... not far enough. Two tries... no. Three tries... splash! Not even close. Time to try a potshot. Good thing she's wearing a 7mm suit, or she would be frozen by now.



I hear you there! I went through The Squeeze on memorial day weekend and I whiffed 3 times with the pack toss in that same hole. I stemmed up a ways which helped, however, It is easy to become unstable in that particular instance. We, like you, also had a person freezing down in the pot, waiting for an escape route. Lesson learned. That pothole was DRAMATICALLY colder than the rest.

-Erik B.

[ratagonia]

I *think* we took the shortcut you are asking about. As you approach the Moroni Slopes from the Factory Butte trailhead, you will see a very clear path up the face. It's impossible to miss. We took this trail, and it sucked. I'm guessing it is more difficult than the trail that originates from the cottonwood grove. But I don't really know. :ne_nau:

Yes, the trail off to the side that tracks away from the destination canyon is worse than the use-trail closer to the canyon that leads to the entry.

Tom

[qedcook]

There are not that many people around who know how to put good bolts in soft sandstone.

I'm willing to support anyone interested in working on it with training and tools.


This is another Tom-ism that is said frequently. I can only go on personal experience, but I've installed a few bolts in the sandstone rocks nears my house about 5 years ago, and they are still as solid as ever. I could see how this could be difficult for some, but if you know what you're doing it's fairly straightforward.

I loved this canyon when I did it, so I'm willing to help any way I can. However, I don't remember too many anchors that made me terribly nervous.

Here's an -ism from me. A 75% bolt holds more than a deadman ever could.

[Slot Machine]

I loved this canyon when I did it, so I'm willing to help any way I can. However, I don't remember too many anchors that made me terribly nervous.

Here's an -ism from me. A 75% bolt holds more than a deadman ever could.

Thanks for offering to help. With a large & skilled team the canyon could be vastly improved in a day.

Deadman anchors are great because they are inspectable. It takes 100% x-ray vision to know if a single bolt is 75% or not. :eek2: :haha:

[Scott P]

I loved this canyon when I did it, so I'm willing to help any way I can. However, I don't remember too many anchors that made me terribly nervous.

The Swell is rather notorious for bad bolts.

Bolts only placed half way in in Eadley (replaced since); bolts you can pull out with your bare hands in Baptist, and extremely poorly placed ones (hardware store ones with washers and no hangars) in the Black Box to name a few.

[qedcook]

Bolts only placed half way in in Eadley (replaced since).

I remember a couple of bad pitons in Eardley.

[ratagonia]

I could see how this could be difficult for some, but if you know what you're doing it's fairly straightforward.



Glad to see you agree with me.

I don't know what a 75% bolt is. I have removed 3 bolts over the years with a simple tug of the fingers. I would consider those 0% bolts.

Tom :moses:

[Erik B]

.

The single bolt on the far side of the keeper is in an awkward place for using a cheater stick. Might not work.

Tom

The guys that went through a day before me said they used a cheater stick + Ibis hook successfully though I could see the angle being a little wonky. We went with a pack toss.


BTW: here is one of those awesome bolts from The Squeeze (taken last week) you all are talking about: At least the webbing is new! phew! I was worried it was unsafe for a second. :)

-EB

66871

[ratagonia]

The guys that went through a day before me said they used a cheater stick + Ibis hook successfully though I could see the angle being a little wonky. We went with a pack toss.


BTW: here is one of those awesome bolts from The Squeeze (taken last week) you all are talking about: At least the webbing is new! phew! I was worried it was unsafe for a second. :)

-EB



Ah yes, nice pic, though a bit misleading. Though not a faith-enhancing bolt, it is, after all, not really used for anything. (The rappels proceeds to the left, so only the lower bolt is weighted.)

Fullish anchor survey here:

http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/canyoneering-the-squeeze-san-rafael-swell-utah-anchor-survey-sept-2012/

The point is not that there are not a lot of bad bolts in there, (is that a triple negative?); the point is that there is at least one OK bolt for every genuine rappel.

Here's the pic of the second to last anchor, part of which Erik showed.

Tom

66883

[Jolly Green]

How were the bugs?

[TommyBoy]

Just did it today and the bugs were horrible until you hit the gate, we were walking in a cloud of flys. After the gate there were a few, but they weren't bad.