Hogwarts

[Slot Machine]

On New Year's Day, 2013, Steph and I took a leisurely hike through Hogwarts.

At the first rappel we were greeted with an obnoxious blue anchor. It appears that the group that built it did so in order to keep their feet dry, because it bypasses a water-filled pothole at the head of the drop. After that group used their anchor, they left a rope groove, and subsequent groups have as well (see the lower left corner in photo #1 & #2). I cut out the blue anchor and we began looking for a better spot.

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The problem with trying to bypass the pothole is that starting the rappel can be very awkward/dangerous if your anchor is extended over the edge. If you leave your anchor short, you simply can't avoid grooving the lip around the first drop.

Steph selected a nice rock at the top of the drainage and we put a green sling around it. The rock is above a very convenient shelf and makes starting the rappel very simple. However, there is the aforementioned pothole below. I saw that the pothole below was frozen, and hoped that it would hold my weight. It held about half of my weight, but it wasn't a big deal; my shoes and ankles got wet. I was able to gallantly get Steph across without her suffering the same fate. The pull was very easy and clean.

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Moral of the story: Do your best to prevent rope grooves, even if it means you have to get your feet wet.

:soapbox:

The arch in Hogwarts is possibly my favorite feature in all of the North Wash. It is spectacular!

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If you look closely, Steph is at the top of the rappel.
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Afterwards, there is an interesting keeper pothole in the middle of the canyon. I mentioned to Steph that people sometimes stem over the pothole. She looked across the pothole at eye level and said "Not possible". I pointed higher, at the only possible route, some 20 feet above the mud in the bottom. You should have seen the look on her face- pure disbelief.

Since neither one of us like wheelchairs, we tossed a pack across. I didn't load much into my pack, so the rope only provided about 6 or 8 pounds of tension. I hooked ascenders and aiders to the rope, but the foot loops were useless because the rope wouldn't hold my weight. I'd step in and pull the rope back towards me and slide to the bottom of the pothole. I eventually just climbed out and used the 8 lbs of rope tension and top ascender to the best of my advantage. (yes, I could have redone the whole damn thing, but didn't want to.) The final move was a mantle starting with the entire underside of my left arm on top of the exit lip of the pothole. Tough for me, but I'm a crappy climber.

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Thumbs up if you didn't fall backwards into the mud. :mrgreen:
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In my opinion, Hogwarts is a North Wash Classic. It is in very pristine condition. The rope pulls can be tricky; be a good canyon steward and take your time and think about your setup and pull. If you leave a groove in there, you're just not paying attention.

:mrgreen: :soapbox:

Bob

http://amazingslots.blogspot.com/2013/01/hogwarts.html

[hikster11]

Great report as always. Thanks for sharing

[Mountaineer]

Awesome report! Thanks for fixing that pull. Rope grooves are one of my big pet peeves.

I love Hogwarts. Easy approach, and the the last rap drops you almost on top of the road.

[ratagonia]

Thanks for pointing out the bad choices of the people that put in the blue-sling anchor. Did you remove it? Removing bad anchors is a good thing to do.

Tom

[Slot Machine]

Thanks for pointing out the bad choices of the people that put in the blue-sling anchor. Did you remove it? Removing bad anchors is a good thing to do.

Tom

I've learned a fair amount of "pointing out" skills from you. :lol8: It's kind of fun, and hopefully educational enough to keep that drop looking nice.

We did remove the blue anchor, and I fixed my report to articulate precisely what we did.

Bob

[ratagonia]

I've learned a fair amount of "pointing out" skills from you. :lol8: It's kind of fun, and hopefully educational enough to keep that drop looking nice.

We did remove the blue anchor, and I fixed my report to articulate precisely what we did.

Bob

Excellent! Thank you.

Tom

[Felicia]

Nice Trip Report!

We went through the day before. I agree that the first anchor was unsightly. We discussed re-working it, but ultimately decided against it. I honestly can't remember why - I really hated the rope groves and I was disappointed that we might to contribute to them. As I was first down, I'm not sure where our rope was ultimately placed and where the pull occurred. I know that our goal was to not contribute to the grooves. Thank you for fixing the anchor. Your actions motivates me to be more responsible in the future.

For the silo, the first person stemmed the silo, the second person was sent across on a guided rappel and I traveled across zip line style. I landed beached whale style halfway out of the pothole - the dried mud dust was extremely slippery! It did not help that I was laughing so hard that I was useless in helping in getting my carcass out of the pothole :lol8: I thoroughly enjoyed the canyon all the way through. We did keep our feet, and our rope dry. :mrgreen:

[Slot Machine]

Your actions motivates me to be more responsible in the future.

It's good to hear about the ripple affect. :2thumbs:


For the silo, the first person stemmed the silo, the second person was sent across on a guided rappel and I traveled across zip line style. I landed beached whale style halfway out of the pothole - the dried mud dust was extremely slippery!

What?? You didn't stem it either? :haha: I'd like to go back and try that silo after a rainstorm fills it, so a fall doesn't mean broken bones.

[jman]

Awesome, thanks for sharing slotty!

[Felicia]

What?? You didn't stem it either? :haha: I'd like to go back and try that silo after a rainstorm fills it, so a fall doesn't mean broken bones.

Exactly! I would love to have tried the stem. We could not figure out how to protect my fall if I tried to attempt the stem. Our reasoning was that there was only three of us and we were a long way from civilization; the risk was too great. I REALLY wanted to try that stem. Let me know when the pothole is full, I will try the stem with you. :2thumbs:

Felicia

[moab mark]

I may be mistaken but can't you just walk around that pothole on the right side? Might of been a bit sketchy but not to bad. Great report, my wife was looking at your pictures and wanted to know why she hadn't been there.

[ratagonia]

I may be mistaken but can't you just walk around that pothole on the right side? Might of been a bit sketchy but not to bad. Great report, my wife was looking at your pictures and wanted to know why she hadn't been there.

Nope! Might be thinking of a different place. CAN be stemmed over, but it is a little tricky and definitely intimidating. Once one person is across, CAN set up a guided rappel from a meat anchor, but the stance at the far side is not so great so it really helps if the weight ratio is favorable.

Tom

[moab mark]

I'm pretty sure that is the spot. When Tad and I were there that had a bunch of water in it. We backed up a bit and climbed up and went over and chimneyed down the crack that you drop into after you climb out. We did not go thru that hole. It doesn't look doable but it was pretty easy. Where he is giving the thumbs up in the picture there is a crack coming down on the other side of that wall that is where we came down. We were quite proud of ourselves.:stud:

Mark

[ratagonia]

I'm pretty sure that is the spot. When Tad and I were there that had a bunch of water in it. We backed up a bit and climbed up and went over and chimneyed down the crack that you drop into after you climb out. We did not go thru that hole. It doesn't look doable but it was pretty easy. Where he is giving the thumbs up in the picture there is a crack coming down on the other side of that wall that is where we came down. We were quite proud of ourselves.:stud:

Mark


:hail2thechief:

I looked at that, but thought it looked kinda dicey.

Tom

[ilipichicuma]

Sweet report! This canyon is high on my list for the next couple weeks. Sweet pictures!
:2thumbs:

[Slot Machine]

I'm pretty sure that is the spot. When Tad and I were there that had a bunch of water in it. We backed up a bit and climbed up and went over and chimneyed down the crack that you drop into after you climb out. We did not go thru that hole. It doesn't look doable but it was pretty easy. Where he is giving the thumbs up in the picture there is a crack coming down on the other side of that wall that is where we came down. We were quite proud of ourselves.:stud:

Mark

Nice!

Steph mentioned this when we were hiking out. She said that we could have climbed up on the right and rapped or handlined from a hueco anchor near the top of the crack. I didn't look at it, so I can't attest to it's difficulty. :ne_nau: I was too busy getting muddy. :haha:

[Mountaineer]

Have the first person across put their foot against the opposite wall as an encouraging target and brace, back against the wall, then encourage the others to stem and don't look down. :-)

I don't remember it being so bad. Certainly climbing those Moki steps for Notminbender with a pack on felt more exposed...

[Don]

I'm pretty sure that is the spot. When Tad and I were there that had a bunch of water in it. We backed up a bit and climbed up and went over and chimneyed down the crack that you drop into after you climb out. We did not go thru that hole. It doesn't look doable but it was pretty easy. Where he is giving the thumbs up in the picture there is a crack coming down on the other side of that wall that is where we came down. We were quite proud of ourselves.:stud:

Mark

I was thinking the same thing, if you stay high and right (looking down canyon), you could get into a crack and slide down easy. But it's sketchy, we didn't try it. A few of us stemmed, and a few rapped in and were helped out.

[TheBird]

Nice photos. Hogwarts is definitely on the to-do list. thinking of heading that direction in the spring. Would Hogwarts be suitable to me bringing along some canyon newbs? they are good hikers but no canyon experience. High stemming and much water are probably not a good idea. I don't want to get too crazy for their first time.

[TheBird]

I don't remember it being so bad. Certainly climbing those Moki steps for Notminbender with a pack on felt more exposed...[/QUOTE]

Yeah, those Moki steps are not as straight forward as Kelsey makes it sound. I had to apologize to the wife after that one. oops.

[Slot Machine]

Nice photos. Hogwarts is definitely on the to-do list. thinking of heading that direction in the spring. Would Hogwarts be suitable to me bringing along some canyon newbs? they are good hikers but no canyon experience. High stemming and much water are probably not a good idea. I don't want to get too crazy for their first time.

Thanks!

The last rappel in Hogwarts might be intense for someone who hasn't rappelled before, because it is overhung and awkward (70-80 feet?). I would go do a couple of easier canyons first. Maybe East Lep, West Blarney, then Hogwarts.

[ratagonia]

Thanks!

The last rappel in Hogwarts might be intense for someone who hasn't rappelled before, because it is overhung and awkward (70-80 feet?). I would go do a couple of easier canyons first. Maybe East Lep, West Blarney, then Hogwarts.

I think that pothole thing could be a problem. There's a lot I would choose before Hogwarts - like East and West Lep, and especially Morocco, which is much more straightforward, AND has an easier approach, and no climbing problems at all.

Tom

[Slot Machine]

I think that pothole thing could be a problem. There's a lot I would choose before Hogwarts - like East and West Lep, and especially Morocco, which is much more straightforward, AND has an easier approach, and no climbing problems at all.

Tom

If you are committed to getting muddy and/or wet, the pothole is no big deal. Kinda fun actually. I can't think of a scenerio where if one went low, you would get into trouble. However, if you try to get cute with it, and go high, yeah you could get hurt badly.

Another concern is rope grooves (with new folks). If you intend to lead, be sure to communicate to your group that preventing grooves are a top priority. Extend all groovy anchors to the edge (or over).

I did forget about the approach... there is one trickyish upclimb. Somewhat exposed 3rd class? Not terrible, but it took us a minute to figure out.

Generally, I agree with Tom, there are many easier (and very good) canyons in the immediate area that should be considered first.

[TheBird]

Cool, thanks guys. I'll look into those others first.

[dustinsc]

Nice photos. Hogwarts is definitely on the to-do list. thinking of heading that direction in the spring. Would Hogwarts be suitable to me bringing along some canyon newbs? they are good hikers but no canyon experience. High stemming and much water are probably not a good idea. I don't want to get too crazy for their first time.

Just went through on Saturday. A lot of fun. I don't think the approach would be very challenging for someone who has some experience doing more difficult hikes. Also, most of the challenging stuff in the technical portion can be overcome if you have two people with experience in the group (one person to get in and out of the pothole first with another to help up, one experienced person on the long rappel to go first and another to make sure the new people set up right, etc.)

[SRG]

Nice TR Bob! Way to get down n dirty on the pothole escape, looks like fun. Thanks for the canyon maintenance.


The last rappel in Hogwarts might be intense for someone who hasn't rappelled before, because it is overhung and awkward (70-80 feet?).

A couple years ago I did Hogwarts and our 60m rope was too short on that last rappel. The anchor was a large rectangular flake-boulder back about 20ft from the edge. We fed out one side of the rope until it touched the ground, tied a 'biner block in and rapped single strand. Our whole party rapped and the last man down, who was surprised to find the pull cord was about 15 ft off the ground, had to lock off on rappel and ghetto-rig 15ft of webbing onto our pull-cord. Is this still the anchor? Does anyone know the exact length of this rappel from the lip? How bout from the anchor?

Also, what was the anchor situation for the short rappel just after the pothole? I've seen a slung hueco/mini arch thing that wasn't confidence inspiring. Any chance it is still a deadman equalized off a cobble?


Would Hogwarts be suitable to me bringing along some canyon newbs?
I'd say it should be OK to bring beginners through as long as you know what your doing(especially considering that this thread turned into a step-by-step how-to guide on descending Hogwarts :haha:). NOT leading beginners through canyons with stemming, sketchy downclimbs, or long canyons with rapidfire obstacles and cold water exposure is my rule. I find that the risk from things like anchor problems, potholes escapes and rappelling can often be mitigated by an experienced leader, and those are the type of challenges you'll likely encounter in Hogwarts.

[ratagonia]

A couple years ago I did Hogwarts and our 60m rope was too short on that last rappel. The anchor was a large rectangular flake-boulder back about 20ft from the edge. We fed out one side of the rope until it touched the ground, tied a 'biner block in and rapped single strand. Our whole party rapped and the last man down, who was surprised to find the pull cord was about 15 ft off the ground, had to lock off on rappel and ghetto-rig 15ft of webbing onto our pull-cord. Is this still the anchor? Does anyone know the exact length of this rappel from the lip? How bout from the anchor?

90 feet. http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/minislot/canyons/?i=hogwarts

That's probably from the lip. If dry, a deadman near the lip works. When wet, the "Alligator" has become the normal anchor.

Also, it is not necessary to go all the way to the ground. With a little swing, you can get off at the ledge 15' off the ground.

Nothing wrong with tying a piece of webbing to the end of the pull side.



Also, what was the anchor situation for the short rappel just after the pothole? I've seen a slung hueco/mini arch thing that wasn't confidence inspiring. Any chance it is still a deadman equalized off a cobble?

You didn't like the hueco?



I'd say it should be OK to bring beginners through as long as you know what your doing(especially considering that this thread turned into a step-by-step how-to guide on descending Hogwarts :haha:). NOT leading beginners through canyons with stemming, sketchy downclimbs, or long canyons with rapidfire obstacles and cold water exposure is my rule. I find that the risk from things like anchor problems, potholes escapes and rappelling can often be mitigated by an experienced leader, and those are the type of challenges you'll likely encounter in Hogwarts.

I would suggest taking beginners through a canyon you have not done before is probably not a good idea. Remember that couple in Heaps last summer???

Tom

[Bootboy]

Sort if off topic, but....

Who named this canyon? I'll admit I am somewhat anti Harry potter (I've read a couple of the books, and think they're rubbish) and think it totally lacking in creativity and originality to name a canyon after contemporary preteen-targeted, brain rot literature.

Haha! Just thought I'd drop in and stir a pot!

[Bootboy]

I would suggest taking beginners through a canyon you have not done before is probably not a good idea. Remember that couple in Heaps last summer???

Tom

I guess it kind of depends on how you define beginners. Those two were willfully ignorant. Hopefully an anomaly. I've taken plenty of first-time canyoneers through canyons I've not done before. That said tho, they've all been very physically capable individuals with good rope skill and climbing experience.

[ghawk]

I'm pretty sure that is the spot. When Tad and I were there that had a bunch of water in it. We backed up a bit and climbed up and went over and chimneyed down the crack that you drop into after you climb out. We did not go thru that hole. It doesn't look doable but it was pretty easy. Where he is giving the thumbs up in the picture there is a crack coming down on the other side of that wall that is where we came down. We were quite proud of ourselves.:stud:

Mark

We went down last Saturday and there was no water in that pothole. I stemmed over it and my friends dropped in and got out pretty easily. I pointed out to one that I thought they could just pop over the top and chimney down where you came down. It didn't look too bad to me but they weren't excited about it. I think it looks harder from the up canyon side of the pothole. Totally doable though. :2thumbs:

[River]

Sort if off topic, but....

Who named this canyon? I'll admit I am somewhat anti Harry potter (I've read a couple of the books, and think they're rubbish) and think it totally lacking in creativity and originality to name a canyon after contemporary preteen-targeted, brain rot literature.

Haha! Just thought I'd drop in and stir a pot!

Scroll about a third of the way down on Stefan's page:
http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/canyontales/canyonames/#nlp

[SRG]

Also, it is not necessary to go all the way to the ground. With a little swing, you can get off at the ledge 15' off the ground.
Hmmm, this is good to know, thanks for the tip.


You didn't like the hueco?
It's just sooooo small from what I recall. Huecos always give me the willies though.

[Slot Machine]

So, has anyone tried the new anchor on rap #1? Thoughts?

Did anyone think of a better placement and move it? Just curious.

[ratagonia]

Sort if off topic, but....

Who named this canyon? I'll admit I am somewhat anti Harry potter (I've read a couple of the books, and think they're rubbish) and think it totally lacking in creativity and originality to name a canyon after contemporary preteen-targeted, brain rot literature.

Haha! Just thought I'd drop in and stir a pot!

When you search out and share canyons, you get to name them. Even when you name them, they may not necessarily stick.

There is a long history of naming rock climbing routes in honor of contemporary pop culture. I have been turned on to some very good novels as a result of doing the routes. Such as Darkness at Noon: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darkness_at_Noon

It also places the route in a context of time and place, sometimes.

And if it annoys the 2% of the population that dislikes Harry Potter, all the better!

Tom

[ratagonia]

I guess it kind of depends on how you define beginners. Those two were willfully ignorant. Hopefully an anomaly. I've taken plenty of first-time canyoneers through canyons I've not done before. That said tho, they've all been very physically capable individuals with good rope skill and climbing experience.

I have taken beginners through canyons I have not done before, and had it be a mistake (but no one got hurt, so I got away with it).

Jus' sayin'...

Tom

[Iceaxe]

If I take beginners through canyons I have not done before I place a premium on who I received the beta from and how much I trust that person.

Tap'n on my Galaxy G3