Setting up an ATS for use as a releasable anchor/lowering system

[dweaver2130]

I want to start this out by saying canyoneering and rappelling are dangerous activities, and I hold no liability if you get hurt. Remember void if opened and no returns. Please practice this in a safe place, where the chance of injury is low.

Anyway all of that aside, this is not my idea, and it is not in the Sterling manual. We learned this from our canyoneering instructor Mike Knarzer from Outdoor Adventures AZ. Awesome instructor if you need one in AZ, or anywhere ( he is currently guiding in Indonesia) check him out.

This is basically a way of using the ATS as a block that you can release and lower an injured/stuck canyoneer, much like using a Totem in joker mode, except you can only have one person rappel at a time with the ATS. I imagine you could use a figure 8 in the same way, however I have not tried it with a figure 8 yet. It is great for using with beginners since if they freak out or have an issue you can easily lower them. My wife easily lowered my 250 lb "bulk" with one hand. Downsides that I can see would be not being able to rappel with new fancy device, and it could get stuck like any other block device. This is why we are looking into using a figure 8 to set this up.

So you start like normal, feed your rope through your quick-link

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Then you get your ATS device

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Then you feed a bite of rope through the large hole at the top, setting up your ATS to use in figure 8 mode.

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The pull the bite down and over the bottom horns. Cinch it tight behind the device. Just a front and side view of it.

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Then make another bite of rope and push it through one of the belay slots. It doesn't matter which one.

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Then push this bite down and over the bottom horns and cinch it down behind the device like so..

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Then you take your canyon quickdraw and attach and lock one side to the top main hole, and the other through the binder hole at the bottom. This secures the set-up and prevents the rope from slipping out of the device.

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So you are having a good day, everything is perfect, and then...your buddy on rappel becomes stuck, now to switch to lower.

You remove the canyon quickdraw, and then you grab onto the block/clean side rope. You feed the bite back over the horns onto the front side of the device.

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Then you slowly pull the bite through the belay slot. When you get to this point, warn the buddy on rappel, that they will feel a "pop"

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Now you can lower your buddy, just make sure to keep your hand on the brake side to prevent a fall.

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I know this seems complicated, but honestly it is really easy, and takes no longer to set than a Biner block, well maybe a few second. The nice thing is having a built in releasable lowering 'hitch' We have used it many times now, and have yet to get it stuck on a pull as well. But as with anything, if the pull looks difficult, try another method, or switch for the LAMAR. If you have questions, post them. Try it, test it and let me know what you all think about it.

[Kuya]

From what I can tell, this setup is more of a contingency rigging than a releasable anchor. I think of ghosting techniques when I think of releasable anchors. Is my thinking flawed in this?

[oldno7]

From what I can tell, this setup is more of a contingency rigging than a releasable anchor. I think of ghosting techniques when I think of releasable anchors. Is my thinking flawed in this?

Your exactly right--this is a contingency setup.

[PG Rob]

Thank you for showing the option to use an ATS. This is set up for contingency. It is used regularly by many using a figure 8.
My preferred method of rigging it: http://canyoneering.wikia.com/wiki/Figure_8_block
Another similar method: http://canyonquest.com/~steve/cerberuscanyons.com/tech/007_eightrelease/tech_007_release8.html
A discussion about it here on Bogley: http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthread.php?57762-Figure-8-block-with-lower

I can understand your perspective as far as "releasable" goes, in that you can retrieve your rope and ATS, the same way you would with a biner block or figure 8 block.

When I think of releasable, similar to Kuya, I think of ghosting where nothing is left... no rope, no ATS, no quick link and no webbing or cord.

My initial inclination is to stick with a figure 8, primarily because they are cheaper than an ATS and I would feel bad scraping it up. I am interested to see if there are any advantages to using the ATS over a figure 8 or munter.

Anyone?

[dweaver2130]

I agree that I would prefer to use the figure 8 than my expensive ATS, I was just presenting this as another tool for the toolbox. Also to use with ghosting techniques, you could easily use the belay slots on the ATS, much like the webbing slots on the omnisling. The set up would be similar, and you would just wrap the anchor with your rope. Not an ideal set up, but would work as the slots hold a rappel in this manner very nicely.

[PG Rob]

Also to use with ghosting techniques, you could easily use the belay slots on the ATS, much like the webbing slots on the omnisling. The set up would be similar, and you would just wrap the anchor with your rope. Not an ideal set up, but would work as the slots hold a rappel in this manner very nicely.

Interesting... Is anyone here using this in canyon?

Also, I wanted to add... Very nice presentation of the rigging in both pictures and explanation.

Rob

[ratagonia]

Nomenclature:

1. Contingency Anchor or Dynamic Anchor (rigging): the anchor is rigged so that, should a person get stuck on rope or more rope be needed, the rigging can be converted to a lowering system quickly and easily.

2. Releasable Anchor: a nomenclature of confusion.

3. Retrievable Anchor: a ghosting term for any style of rappelling where, after a rappel, not only is the rope retrieved, but also all parts of the anchor are retrieved so that no human artifacts are left behind.

Tom

[Brian in SLC]

Great pictures of the technique, I'll have to play a bit with it.

I do like the contingency riggin' with a figure eight, for sure. And, especially in water flow, I'll have an ATS available as my standard rappelling device.

Interesting.

[2065toyota]

If you are nomenclaturial confused, is that a good thing? :haha:

[Mountaineer]

Great presentation with your description and pics. Well done.