Clean anchor management

[Mountaineer]

I've seen a lot of crazy spaghetti messes for anchors, but I just had to post this one. Finished the North Fork of NoMans this week (among a lot of others - wow, the roost is cool), and couldn't believe the anchor.

A suspect bolt, and rock chock. 7 pieces of webbing all wrapped to each other, wherein each just made it back to one of the only two anchor points (not equalized). Webbing rubbing directly on webbing. A key point tied as an incomplete half hitch, multiple rapid links at octopus junctions, a figure 8's backed on top of itself with another figure 8, and ?

I couldn't believe people were rapping from this and would somehow feel safer just putting another piece of webbing on...I'm glad nobody got hurt. Luck?

We left it with a new, single piece of 50' equalized webbing to both anchor points. It could have gone down the slope a bit more, but it seems to pull clean and straight. I hesitated to post, as I hope it doesn't come across as "hey, this is what I did", but only to point out that I'm glad everyone on this forum continues to do their part on implementing safe practices and sharing their experiences. And yes, we're all responsible for ourselves out there. Great to have fun, better to be safe.

Mark

61007

[Iceaxe]

When in doubt add more webbing. :haha:

:popcorn:

[ratagonia]

Thank you Mark.

I think it is appropriate to post these kind of "clean up" notices, to remind people it is each and everyone's job to clean these things up when we find them.

A bolt --- it's on the list!

Tom

[Slot Machine]

Nice work! :2thumbs:

I removed a tangle like this in Baptist earlier this year. Finding a tangle there wasn't much of a surprise. It gets lots of traffic; with lots of people that can't create a basic anchor.

But in No Man's?? It seems awfully strange that several consecutive clueless groups would go through there. Is this the new training ground for the Boy Scouts?

[hesse15]

from the picture does not look that terrible!
i found once the yellow strap that you use to tow cars!!! the webbing in the picture looks also in old conditions,no metals?