The Joys and Terrors of Polynesia Peakbagging

[Scott P]

http://www.summitpost.com/images/197670.jpg (http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/photo_link.pl?photo_id=197670&object_id=5711&type=mountain&mountain_id=6024&route_id=)

Some may ask why Polynesia would make a good mountain climbing destination. There are higher mountains elsewhere, and Polynesia is much better known for its beaches and diving than it is for mountains. One reason why we chose Polynesia is because my wife and I haven

[Scott P]

November 6, 2005

Today, I climbed Maunga Terevaka (http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/6005), the highest peak on Easter Island. The trip looked too long for the children, so they went with mommy and hiked along the coast and visited the beach. I took a taxi to Ahu Akiva where there are seven huge moai statues at the trailhead. You can’t miss this trailhead! Unfortunately, I found out that the digital camera I had brought had a dead battery, and I had not brought a spare.

Maunga Terevaka was a nice walk across the grasslands with fine views across the island. It is the longest hike, but actually the most gentle of all summits that were visited on this trip to Polynesia. Other than the statues at the trailhead, I didn’t see any ruins on the peak. After summiting, I visited the interesting forest and crater lake south of the peak, and then I returned to the trailhead. I decide to take a more direct route to Hanga Roa instead of following the roads all the way back. This turned out to be a good move, but I’m still kicking myself for not having a spare battery for the camera. I headed directly west and passed north of Maunga Roiho. There were some old 4wd tracks and horse trails at first, but the route become more rugged closer to the coast and crosses some rough lava fields. Along the way, I found two huge lava tube caves and a large carving of a sword fish(?). No tour groups make it out here, nor are these places ever mentioned in the books, so it was really thrilling to just stumble on them. Finding them unexpectedly was such a neat experience. After reaching the coast, I waked along the 4wd track to the south and reached Hanga Roa, passing many statues near the town along the way. It was a long day, but a great hike.


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November 11, 2005

Now, five days after my climb of Maunga Terevaka, and after doing much “touristy stuff”, it was time for some more serious mountaineering on the Island of Moorea (reached by a flight back to Tahiti and then by ferry). The wife and kids went on a whale and dolphin watching cruise, so I could attempt to climb Rotui (http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/6029), the second highest peak on the island of Moorea. Despite the low altitude of the peak, the mountains of Moorea are among the most rugged in the world and every bit as rugged as the Himalayas. Unlike the Himalayas however, most peaks on this and the surrounding islands are considered impossible to climb and many still await first ascents.

The Lonely Planet book had made Rotui out as a serious climb, so I prepared for that. I started out at sunrise. After dodging the local dogs and finding the correct trail, I started up the mountain. Since all the reports I read indicated that the climb should be done in long pants, because of the brush, this is what I wore. I quickly decided that they were way to hot, so I ditched them for my swim trunks. Even in swim trunks, the brush wasn’t bad enough to suffer more through the heat. It was a very hot and exhausting climb up to the flame trees. The fixed ropes that were supposed to be here were missing, but it didn’t matter as there were many vines, roots and branched to aid in climbing the steep part. Piece of cake.

I now followed the ridge towards the summit. The weather was clear at first, but more clouds gathered the higher I went. It was very hot so I began thinking that a nice rain shower might feel kind of good. This was na